R-8 Back up Body

[bscott]

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I'm sure some of you have answered this question many times but I would like to know your opinion of the best back up body for the R8 system without purchasing another R8.

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[Guest chris_h]

A mechanical R6.2.

[masjah]

Bill

 

Why do you rule out purchasing another R8? Good s/h examples are not grossly expensive. That would certainly be my choice. (I have an R9 and an R8 - the latter serves as back-up, but also is fitted with the grid screen for architectural shots with the 28/2.8 PC lens.)

[stuny]

I agree with John, and suspect that good used R8s are cheaper than the scarce R6.2s. Additionally, it's nice to have two bodies that handle exactly the same way -- You'll make fewer errors.

[topoxforddoc]

Buy another R8. It will be much cheaper than a R6.2 (in the UK about GBP150-200) and if you go down the DMR route, you'll have identical bodeis for film and digital (except for the crop factor)

 

Charlie

[gvaliquette]

It actually is not that simple.

I currently have a R6.2 and a R9 with DMR. I also have the R4-7 motor drive and the R8/9 motor drive. I deliberately chose the R8/9 motor drive over the motor winder because the ergonomics match the DMR very closely. And I like the purely mechanical aspect of the R6.2

Sooo...

If you use mostly film, get a R6.2 (or R6 - cheaper but only lacks the 1/2,000 shutter speed of the 6.2).

If you mostly use the DMR, get another R8 or a R9, but then, would you get another DMR?

Finally, do not pass over the other "earlier Rs". R4s are pretty cheap on the s/h market these days. But then, I must admit, I never had one of them.

As I said, it's not that simple!

Best luck.

 

PS: The R4-7 motor drive is useful, but it has its flaws. It stops after frame #36, so you should not use 24 exposure rolls and you have to wind manually for frames 37, 38 (and maybe 39), which I usually get on the R6.2. An then, you have to rewind manually. Quite dated as motor drives go, but it is useful and I still use it!

[symmetron]

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Get an R4s if you want an automatic body; which I recommend. They can be had for under $400. Otherwise, get another R-8. The R6 and R6.2 just don't make economic sense. I think they're overpriced; always have been.

[garyp]

Other than a 2nd R8, then an SL.

[telyt]

Other than a 2nd R8, then an SL.

 

If your lenses are 3-cam, I agree. I haven't decided which is my primary and which is the backup, the R8 or the SL.

[harrisfoto]

I have been using the R-8 w/ digital back and R6 for backup (but never needed it). However, an M3 with a 50mm lens does not take up much more (maybe less) space then the R6. Does anyone use an M for film backup to digital?

[ed_oneal]

I've not used my M3 to back up a digital camera, but I have used it to back up my Hasselblad and found it to be just the thing. In my niece's wedding, I only used one shot from the M and that had to do with facial expressions on the subjects rather than on photo quality.

[mgcd]

I went through this exercise myself and chose two other R8 bodies. The alternatives just don't make any practical sense since they really cannot take the place of the R8/9 with accessories, DMR etc.

 

Cheers,

[stunsworth]

I picked up an R8 body in excellent condition for I think 650 Euros from someone on the LUG, so you don't have to pay the earth if you'reprepared to wait for the right one to come along.

[rick_dykstra]

As a 'backup' to an R8 - I would buy another R8. Backup means being able to continue with a shoot with virtually no disruption other than a few swearwords coz the first one broke in some way. Identical bodies is the way to go, everytime.

 

But, as an 'alternative' to an R8, an R6.2 is a great choice. It is wonderful to use - so much fun, so much lighter. And way smaller. It's a bit clunky and a bit funny - but not too much so if one also shoots with Ms.

 

So my 2 cents of advice is - think about whether you really need a 'backup' as such, or just another R body to switch to when the mood takes you.

 

Rick.

[telyt]

Yesterday Don Goldberg (DAG camera repair) and I worked out a way to use many ROM lenses on the SL w/o removing the ROM stuff. All it takes is a couple of very simple modifications to the lens and body; the lens and SL will still work exactly as before and bad combinations of lens and body (i.e., lenses that require more mirror clearance) are still prevented.

 

Here's what you do:

 

1) add 2nd cam to the ROM lens

2) trim the inside diameter of the SL's bayonet flange to R specs.

 

These are very simple modifications for a competent repair technician. How this prevents bad lens/body combinations:

 

> the R body flange spec differs from that of the SL in two details: aside from the inside diameter of the flange, the bayonet lug at the 12 o'clock position is slightly shorter. On lenses that require more mirror clearance, the corresponding bayonet lug is slightly longer. This is actually an SL2 change done to prevent matching a Leicaflex Standard or SL with a lens that requires more mirror clearance. In my experience, ROM lenses that do not require extra mirror clearance have the SL-spec bayonet lug.

 

> leaving the lens' bayonet flange alone means it will still not fit the SL2 or Standard; this is a good thing because the ROM contacts would be damaged by these bodies' follower that reads the first cam. The SL does not use the first cam thus has no cam follower that would damage the ROM contacts.

 

So - the SL with this slight modification can be a good backup camera even if your lenses are ROM.

[cecil33]

I have same question of Bscott. I use the DMR on the R8.

I'm looking for one more R camera for the film use.cause the camera can give full screen.

usually the long focal length shot by the R, and the short focal length by my M6, a digital M is my target.

I don't know which one better R5, R6 or a R6.2( they are over-priced)

[uulrich]

so far I have chosen two identical bodies (Leica 2xM6, R4s, Nikon 2xF5, 2xD1, Canon: 2x1V, 2x F1 ) and IMO this is the best approach to be on the safe side. Economically it does not make sense to me to travel to far or near distant places and save 200 quids on a suitable backup solution. The entire fuss is not worth to have two different bodies. Though I must add I do not have R8 or R9.

[leicapages]

Maybe an R9 camera could be the backup? :-)

Seriously, either another R8/R9 or an R6.2 would be my vote.

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[11275]

I have an R-8 and DMR which I use mostly but my backup is another R-8.

 

With various remotes, motor drives, flash and SCA modules etc., etc. it just made sense to stay with the R-8 or the R-9. Current price differential between R-8's and R-9's made the call.

 

No offense to the other R's but sticking with what feels natural in a pinch makes it easier for my brain to function when in a panic.

 

By the way, I usually keep slide film in the "other" R-8. They do a spectacular job with exposure for transparencies and I have the benefit of capture in any media all the time.

 

Just as an aside - I stick the DMR on either camera and have never had a bit of trouble with communications. Both R's are early models yet I have experienced none of the compatibility issues with the DMR.

 

Be aware however that there is an issue with older R-8's and the spot meter sensor failing over time. The camera will function fairly close to correct exposure with matrix and integral with the spot out of service but not perfect - unless you use only the spot you might not notice. Repair is roughly $200 from Leica USA

[dkCambridgeshire]

Carrying another slr as a back-up adds weight and bulk ... my back-up is a Ricoh GR1 .. small compact and exceedingly good lens .. and surprisingly 'quick on the draw'

 

Dunk