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Best setup for a DMR


David Kilgore

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This is my first post, but I would like to thank everyone for all of the invaluable thoughts and suggestions I have read over the past couple of years on this forum.

 

With abundant encouragement from members, I have built up a small collection of Leica gear, starting with the M8 and a number of lenses (35/1.4, 35/1.4 ASPH, 35/2.0 ASPH, 50/2.0, 90/2.0 ASPH, and 135/2.8) and have had a blast using them.

 

Recently (post R-demise) I took the gamble to buy to buy a number of R items, both new and used, at deeply discounted prices. Basically the set consists of the normal prime lenses (35/50/80), a 80-200/4.0, 21-35, a DMR, and both a R8 and a R9. I'd like to use one of the bodies for film (slides) and the other with the DMR. Usage would be 85% digital and 15% film I would guess. Based on people's experiences with both bodies, what would be the recommended set up?

 

Thanks in advance,

David

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R8 and R9 should be pretty interchangeable, so I don't think it would really matter which you use with the DMR. However, there are some practical considerations. Since you'll be using the DMR most of the time, I would use the R9 with it, if the R9 is still under warranty. Does your R8 work with the DMR? If it does not, you should send it to Leica to adjust it to work with the DMR so that you can use the R8 as a backup to the R9. One thing that R9 can do that R8 cannot, as far as I know, is high-speed flash sync. Even though it's cumbersome to do (all manual), it can come in handy for fill flash with wide apertures.

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Sounds like fun.

 

I would say the basic DMR survival kit is a R8 or R9 camera that has been focus adjusted (if not already in focus), two batteries and a handful of 2GB ScanDisc SD cards (not SDHC), and then make sure the DMR has the latest software.

 

The focus adjustment is in fact the camera alone that need to get sent to Solms as the adjustment for focus is the same for film and DMR. But the DMR reveals any backfocus or frontfocus very clearly. I also have R8 and R9 and had them both adjusted but one at the time so I could use the DMR on the camera I kept here.

 

As for lenses, you might want to explore 19/2.8, 50/2.0, 400/6.8, 180/3.4 which are the cheap but great lenses, and in the expensive end, the 180/2.0, 15/2.8, 35-70/2.8 and 70-180/2.8. The 90/2.0 is also a great lens though I tend to use my 80/1.4 most of the time and only the 90/2.0 as backup.

 

The 80/1.4 that you already have should keep you smiling for some months or years. It's a great lens and a very special one.

 

As for workflow, I use Adobe Lightroom 2 which I find gives better colors than Aperture and Capture One. But when I really want stellar results, I use Imacon/Hasselblad FlexColor 4.8.6 which you can download for free at hasselblad.com

 

But the workflow for DMR is different than M in that it's not the same RAW converts that gives the best results for both cameras. However, that's a matter of getting used to it and then you won't notice.

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David, congrats. You will love this setup. I echo Thorsten's comments. One thing I hope you do is to take the camera to a spot in the shade. Very important to get "natural" light. Try taking the same image in each of the program & metering modes & copy them down in a notebook. When you look at the images, it will help you to understand the effects the different metering & program modes have on the native RAW image. Beware of the "Blue cast" which often comes into play. The DMR provides sublime images, but they need attending to & the sooner you understand how your setup will effect the outcome, the better your results will be. Enjoy & I lokk forward to see your work on the forum.

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You will love the DMR. The only thing I'd add is that I don't like LR with the DMR at all; FlexColor is great but not for many images; C1 has (to my eyes) the best balance of workflow and colour and can use the FlexColor ICC profiles (and don't forget to try the older Phase back profiles too--the Kodak sensor in the DMR is very similar to the ones they were providing for Phase in terms of colour.

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Jamie, is it as easy to batch process with a selected wb in C1 as in Lightroom? I'm getting set to attend a C1 presentation & thinking of buying the Pro software. It's a bummer to have to yet again try & get up to speed on yet another RAW processor. Thanks.

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David,

 

You'll have a lot of fun with that. Personally I would use the R9 with the DMR; I have both a R8/DMR and a R9/DMR. I prefer the latter (I know Ben prefers the former). Also it should work straight out of the box. Of course, you might want to send the DMR and R8 to Solms to get them matched up, but that might take 2-3 months!

 

The lens set-up looks pretty good too. Depending on your shooting style and budget, The other lenses to complete would be the 280/4 APO (best lens Leica and probably anyone else has ever made), one of the 180 APOs and a 19. If you ever get the chance to buy the 280/4, don't think twice - it is truly stunning.

 

As for RAW processors, I'm very happy with Lightroom. OK maybe things are better in Flexcolour or C1, but life's too short. I've got a busy job as a surgeon and time is precious.

 

Charlie

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Jamie, is it as easy to batch process with a selected wb in C1 as in Lightroom? I'm getting set to attend a C1 presentation & thinking of buying the Pro software. It's a bummer to have to yet again try & get up to speed on yet another RAW processor. Thanks.

 

Very easy. Select the picture with the correct WB, copy settings, select picture(s) to which you want to transfer those settings, paste settings. Literally as few as 3 mouse clicks and you're done. It also holds true if you want to replicate the exact same set of adjustments, such as exposure, levels, curves, etc.

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Thanks Peter.

 

Charlie, I think I may have given the wrong impression about the R8/R9. I started with one R8 for film. It became automatic for me to use this camera. When I tried out the DMR, I also bought the R9. Being older (57) I found that things were different, but not better for me, because I didn't want to "relearn" what my hands already were comfortable with & that included the weight. The R9 seemed too light, which to a sane & intelligent thinker, must seem outright stupidity. Anyway, I sold the R9, bought another R8 for the DMR, which is like an extension of myself by this point. Then I bought my third R8 so I can have 2 film cameras each ready to go for my work. I have either of the19's on one and the 90 Elmarit on the other for B&W. Since I use the motor drives on the 2 R8 film cameras, they all operate & feel the same, so I don't have to "think" about anything related to the camera, just what I want to capture. I don't want there to be an impression that I believe the R8 is a "better" camera than the R9.

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David - welcome and congratulations.

 

Re R8 vs R9 - I recently bought a DMR and it's working with an R8. The DMR needs to be switched off separately. However, according to the manual, switching an R9 off also switches the DMR off. One of our R9/DMR users will confirm this soon.

 

Members have talked about focus matching between camera and DMR. I tested an R9/DMR combo a couple of years ago and found it be back-focussing - so I didn't buy it. But the one I bought recently is as close to bang on with two R8s. The thing to do is test focus using the ground glass part of the screen with the longest lens you have. Chances are it'll be fine.

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Re R8 vs R9 - I recently bought a DMR and it's working with an R8. The DMR needs to be switched off separately. However, according to the manual, switching an R9 off also switches the DMR off. One of our R9/DMR users will confirm this soon.

 

 

Rick,

 

That's correct!

 

Charlie

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welcome to the DMR club... I would try to find a discounted 70-180 f/2.8 as well as the 28-90... They are my favorites for travel photography along with the 19mm f/2.8..

Would use the R9 for the DMR as there is less hassle involved and no risk of backfocussing..

You may want to contact Luigi as he makes a great leather half case that will protect both your DMR and regular R8

Enjoy them,

Albert:):)

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Members,

 

These are all great suggestions. Sounds like I should try the R9 first and have the R8 sent to Solms for use as a backup. I use Aperture and Capture One Pro, currently, but will install FlexColor and give that a try. As with others, time is an issue for me, so the ultimate final product (and also my skill level) suffers, but always trying to improve nonetheless. And finally, thanks for the suggestions on the lenses. They all sound like worthy additions when I can find them at the right price. I'm in Hong Kong for the next three weeks and there are a lot of places to look here. Everyone, thanks again... David

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Members,

 

These are all great suggestions. Sounds like I should try the R9 first and have the R8 sent to Solms for use as a backup. I use Aperture and Capture One Pro, currently, but will install FlexColor and give that a try. As with others, time is an issue for me, so the ultimate final product (and also my skill level) suffers, but always trying to improve nonetheless. And finally, thanks for the suggestions on the lenses. They all sound like worthy additions when I can find them at the right price. I'm in Hong Kong for the next three weeks and there are a lot of places to look here. Everyone, thanks again... David

 

David,

 

Just to say, if you decide to send your R8 back, you will need to send the DMR as well, to get it matched up. Turnaround at the moment is 2-3 months.I'm still waiting for a R9 metering repair which went in in June.

 

Charlie

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David,

 

Just to say, if you decide to send your R8 back, you will need to send the DMR as well, to get it matched up. Turnaround at the moment is 2-3 months.I'm still waiting for a R9 metering repair which went in in June.

 

Charlie

 

I disagree with that as I sent my R9 for repair and "adjustment for film and DMR." And it worked fine. Unless the DMR itself has the sensor misplaced or the DMR capsule is bend, adjusting the camera alone (mirror and focusing screen) should mean that focus will lie where the film plane and sensor plane meets the body.

 

As for turnaround, remember to register as a Pro with Leica Customer Service if you're a professional. It speeds repairs up considerably to turnarounds of 1-2 weeks including shipping and/or gives opportunity to lend replacement gear.

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David, I've been happy with Flexcolor so far. Example - I pulled some images through, saved as tiffs and went to work on them in Photoshop. Worked on them for ages until they were about right. After that, I re-imported into Flexcolor and hit the Auto button. That did a better job than all of my photoshopping. It's as if the DMR was meant to be used with Flexcolor. :)

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David:

 

I don't have an R8, so I can't compare the R8 and R9. My additional suggestion is to use the Motor Drive, not the Motor Winder, with the film camera. The feel and ergonomics of the camera with the Motor Drive and the DMR are virtually identical!

 

Guy

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