Leica M Lens Filters

[thomasw_]

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Hello,

Can I get some recommendations on Leica lens filters; I am unsure which set to purchase for my 50mm summicron + M5 set up? Are LEICA SUMMICRON 50mm 35mm CAMERA LENS E39 FILTERS compatible with M bayonet mount lenses? Thanks heaps for any advice.

 

Thomas W.

[waileong]

Should be all right.

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[wizard]

All Leica 50mm Summicron lenses for rangefinder cameras have the E39 filter thread. So you are fine with this one.

 

Andy

[bherman01545]

If you have a black "M" lens, go with the B+W MRC (Multicoated) filter in the thin F-Pro mount. B+H has a good stock of them. If your lens is silver, then go for the same B+W filter, but in the silver Digi-Pro mount.

[pemayeux]

How many of you use a skylight or uv filter? I know it is a good practice to protect the front element but does the filter affect lens performance?

[bherman01545]

This is a topic where there is always a difference of opinion. Truthfully, Leica lenses are very well-coated and fairly flare-resistant, except when shooting wide open into a harsh, directional light source. There is an argument, actually, it's a fact that when introducing an additional glass surface, there is a higher likelihood that you would encounter flare, hence reducing contrast.

 

You know your own style of shooting and how you care for your equipment. I exercise reasonable care when shooting and storing my equipment. I also try to avoid shooting into a harsh, directional light source. However, that being said, it sometimes cannot be avoided.

 

It is recommended to use only B+W MRC UV (Multicoated) or Heliopan SH-PMC filters. Not that other brands are bad, just personal preference. This reduces the risk of flare, but does not only always eliminate it.

 

I use UV filters and have always used one. This is not the correct solution for everyone, but it works for me. Brad H.

[johnkuo]

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Unless you work in an environment where there could be damage to the lens element, such as beach or desert, I don't see any reason why to put another piece of glass no matter how good it is, in front of a Leica lens. I used to do it for every lens just for a peace of mind, but once I get over it, it's really no big deal. Now I use all of them "naked", even on lens like noctilux or 50/1.4ASPH.

[LADP]

I also used to put a filter on all of my lenses (my pre-Leica days) mainly for protection. I was an Assistant Cameraman in the film business for 5 years before making the switch to camera operator and D.P., and now have over 20 years of camera department experience in the motion picture industry. We shoot without glass in front of all of our lenses unless we are filtering for effect, or putting an "optical flat" in front of the lens for protection in specific instances, like doing a shot on a beach with a Ritter fan clowing sand or dust around, or perhaps a pyrotechnical effect. These motion picture lenses (both primes and zooms) are worth a whole lot more than our modest Leica lenses are, and assistants clean the front and rear elements regularly. If you know how to do it properly, there is little chance of damaging the coatings or elements.

[imported_peter_m]

Hi Anthony,

 

It sure would be interesting to know how you clean the lenses in the film industry.

 

Peter

[earleygallery]

Well, Leica are advocating the use of IR filters on the M8. I've said that in my opinion this isn't a satisfactory solution but that's another matter.

 

I generally use a UV filter on each lens although there are one or two which I haven't put filters on, mostly older lenses. Whilst I'm very careful with my gear, I've had one case of potential damage being avoided because the filter was in place. It only cost £10 to replace the filter...........

[LADP]

Hi Anthony,

 

It sure would be interesting to know how you clean the lenses in the film industry.

 

Peter

Well, this is by no means a definitive set of instructions, and I will check with my AC later today when I see him about what the latest SOP is.

 

For liability purposes, I want to be clear that I am not suggesting that anyone uses these methods. I am merely posting these procedures for informational purposes only. They are procedures I have used and continue to use, and these methods work for me, but your mileage may vary. If anyone scratches or otherwise damages their lenses in the process of using any of these methods, I can not be held responsible. You are at your own risk.

 

Having said that, this is how I did it when I was an A.C.:

 

1. Remove dust from the front and/or rear elements with a combination of a bulb syringe and a camel hair brush. Some AC's use canned air (dust off), but many feel that the excessive power of pressurized air can send particulate matter into the glass elements, and potentialy cause damage to the lens. There is also the possibility of getting the liquid form of the agent on the lens which is a big no no. This can occur if the can is tilted at all during use and when the can is new or pretty full. Personally, I try to avoid using canned air, and prefer a bulb syringe.

 

2. If additional light cleaning is needed in the case of light smudges or slight but noticeable streaks on the elements, I would use a new or "clean" microfiber cloth. Before using one, make sure that all the dust is removed from the element via techniques in step 1 above. Microfiber cloths are cheap enough that I replace them pretty regularly. It is said that they can be washed Edit ABr a certain number of times, but I personally feel that the risk of picking up something in the process of doing so that could potentially scratch the lens is too great. I treat them essentially like they're disposable after a period of use, say a couple of months.

 

3. If there is more severe foreign matter on the element, like fresh or dried liquids such as soda, saliva or mucous (human or canine), then I resort to the following: If the liquid is still fresh, soak up as much as you can with clean disposable lens tissue (many AC's use "Kimwipes"). Then use Pancro Mirror and lens cleaner with disposable lens tissue to clean the surface of the element. I also would wrap disposable lens tissue around the tip of a cotton swab or Q-tip (non-wooden shaft type), to get to the edges of the element where it meets the barrel.

 

Pancro is the cleaner of choice that I found leaves the least residue on the lens, and evaporates quite quickly. As far as I know it is safe for various lens coatings, but I can not guarantee that. Do your own research and remember that you are responsible for any damage that may occur if you try to use these methods.

 

As for the example of soda, saliva and mucous given above, they are substances that have found their way to more than a few lenses in my career, and not by my own doing. Hopefully my personally leica lenses will never experience the same sort of indignity.

[wizard]

I agree 100% with what Brad Herman said. That is exactly how I have tackled this "problem" for many, many years. Good filters usually do not produce any visible deterioration of image quality at all, despite all theoretical considerations on introducing a further glass surface, but there is one exception: night shots with strong point shaped light sources. I do take the filter off under those conditions, but otherwise find it much easier to clean the front surface of a filter from time to time than having to mess around with the sometimes strongly curved front surface of a lens.

 

Andy

 

P.S.: If additional glass surfaces would in fact visibly deteriorate lens performance, then we should all stick to lenses having as few lens elements as possible. That would rule out such gems as the new Summilux 50asph, the Elmar 50mm being the obvious choice then...

[masjah]

Just a comment on Anthony's remarks about microfibre cloths. He says "It is said that they can be washed and ironed a certain number of times...". My understanding was that it was OK to wash them, but do not iron, and do not use fabric conditioner in the final rinse. (I understood that their effectiveness is critically dependent on the capillary action in the fibres; ironing them squashes them all up, and fabric conditioner is a surfactant which also messes things up.)

[LADP]

Just a comment on Anthony's remarks about microfibre cloths. He says "It is said that they can be washed and ironed a certain number of times...". My understanding was that it was OK to wash them, but do not iron, and do not use fabric conditioner in the final rinse. (I understood that their effectiveness is critically dependent on the capillary action in the fibres; ironing them squashes them all up, and fabric conditioner is a surfactant which also messes things up.)

 

Thanks for the correction John. I'll correct the above post. Fortunately I did mention that I recommend against washing and reusing them altogether. Ahhh... spoke too soon. It is too late to edit that post. Oh well.

[abrewer]

Thanks for the correction John. I'll correct the above post. Fortunately I did mention that I recommend against washing and reusing them altogether. Ahhh... spoke too soon. It is too late to edit that post. Oh well.

 

Got you covered Anthony.

 

 

Thanks for posting the lens cleaning directions. It's really interesting. I learned something.

 

Thanks.

 

Allan

[imported_peter_m]

Thank you for sharing the lens cleaning procedure with us Anthony.

It sounds like a pretty sensible way of doing it and that is pretty close to how I been keeping my lenses clean.

 

Thanks again for taking the time.

 

Peter

[LADP]

Thanks Allan for the edit, and thanks to both you and Peter for the comments. I forgot to ask my AC today about how he goes about cleaning lenses, but we're working together for the next week and a half, so I'll get the scoop tomorrow and post it.

[drdannn]

Thanks, Anthony for posting your lens cleaning information.

[Xmas]

Hi

 

Well any lens can flare contra jour in sunlight, or at night on light sources, Leica lenses no better or worse then than Canon or Nikon...

 

If you drop a camera and it lands on nose you may need a very expensive lens repair or to scrap. With a filter this probability is reduced, with a filter and hood more reduction.

 

Seagulls are impressive I've had their by product eat the paint on a Mx-5 bonnet (hood) to the alumnium, and burn through a tonneau cover...

 

If you have a hood and filter you can drop them in a hand wash basin and fill with water...

 

Are you a gambling sort of person?

 

But for the seagulls you could use a filter ring without any glass...

 

I never clean lenses, in rain I use brolly, hood and filter. I normally carry a body per lens as well to avoid any 'juggling' incidents...

 

Dont wash micro cloth in washing machine, wash separate use clean bowl and rubber gloves... too large a risk of impregnating silica grit in cloth they are debris magnets.

 

Noel

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[budrichard]

Many Leica lenses have specific filters recommended for each lens and the filter has a number. I believe even if the same diameter ie 39, that the filters may be different for M' and R's.

The filter dimensions usually assure that hoods and other devices work correctly unlike other manufacturer filters which may or may not work with your hood. I only know of one case where the use of a Leics a filter was not taken into account when sizing a lens case for a goggled lens.

I always use the correct Leica filter and clean using denatured alcohol and a paper towel. worked for decades and still does!-Dick