marmelade Posted April 14, 2009 Share #1 Posted April 14, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, Ive tried to search some but really cant find what im looking for, Is it actually possible to turn off the Noise Reduction when shooting Long Exposures ( 4 sec gives 4 sec NR) or not ? Of course one is shooting RAW. Norton, do you know how the battery usage is on this "timeperiod" ? Seems to be quite draining.. hope to get some good answers! Are, Oslo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 14, 2009 Posted April 14, 2009 Hi marmelade, Take a look here Possibility to completly turn off Noise Reduction on Long Exposures?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted April 14, 2009 Share #2 Posted April 14, 2009 No it cannot be turned off and the results would not even come close to the noise-corrected version you get now. (it is not a noise reduction, but a hot-pixel correction) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted April 14, 2009 Share #3 Posted April 14, 2009 Just turn the camera off and back on. When 'my assistant' stupidly leaves my lens cap on I just turn the camera off to avoid the lengthy 'look at my shoes and reflect on how dumb I've been' period. I still get the black photo (although I've never bothered to check whether hot pixels have sprouted before hurriedly deleting it). Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted April 15, 2009 Share #4 Posted April 15, 2009 ......Is it actually possible to turn off the Noise Reduction when shooting Long Exposures..... Are - The noise reduction serves a good purpose, but I'm puzzled why you feel a need to do without it. You think long exposures would be improved without noise reducing exposure? I'm curious to know what you have in mind. ............ Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted April 15, 2009 Share #5 Posted April 15, 2009 Just turn the camera off and back on. Pete. That doesn't work. The camera still stays on until the black reduction image is taken. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marmelade Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted April 15, 2009 Thanks so far for answers, Chris: The only reason im intrested in this is when shooting 15 sec exposures it seems that the batteryconsumption is quite high on the NR bit, this is why i would like to know if its possible to skip that at that moment. Cause at one shooting it was -16 celcius, and there basicly was not good for neither the shooting or the camera to do 1 minute "work lock ups" instead of 30 sec only. (yes the camera worked fine but was quite cold to handle When out and about with low power possibilities, maybe one could skip the Black Frame until "later". I understand that its part of the image processing, but im still wondering how much more cpu/power this uses, compared to a 1/30 shot. are Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 15, 2009 Share #7 Posted April 15, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) You cannot skip it for "later" The camera needs a second exposure to determine the pixel pattern at that particular time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marmelade Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted April 15, 2009 No it cannot be turned off and the results would not even come close to the noise-corrected version you get now. (it is not a noise reduction, but a hot-pixel correction) Well, If you cant turn it off how can you know how the results will be without it ? =) Good Point if not , ps its a joke. But then the Answer is "No its not possible." Any Input from Norton/Hans or the other Software engieneers ? thanks! are Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted April 15, 2009 Share #9 Posted April 15, 2009 Buy a second battery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJP Posted April 15, 2009 Share #10 Posted April 15, 2009 Related to this question. If you use ISO 2500 at 1/30 s or so and preview the pictures on the camera LCD you first see a horribly noisy image which then snaps to a less noisy one after about ½ s. I am assuming that the M8 is using a standard pixel map for removing most of the noise (not all the noise as we know). At longer exposures it takes an actual measurement as the reference for noise reduction. My question is whether the standard pixel map is for shorter exposure times is defined dynamically or whether it is predefined at the factory. In the latter case the ISO 2500 noise (at normal shutter speeds) should slowly get worse. Is this the case? And if so would that not imply that we need a pixel mapping function in the menu to compensate for the sensor drift over time? If not possible or available, would there be a workaround for this? Ie. take a 2500 ISO picture of a uniform white or black object and the residual noise should provide a correction template for futher noise reduction. This is all assuming that most of the 2500ISO digital grain is not random/thermal. Presumably this correction could be done in a cornerfix type of software application. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted April 15, 2009 Share #11 Posted April 15, 2009 Are - I'm still puzzled. Are you having real problems not getting enough work done because of battery consumption? Or are you speculating that it is a problem waiting to happen? Steve is right of course, but you would likely have spare battery power for daylight exposures. You are in Oslo which I associate with dark winters and coldness. Are you really enduring, or planning to endure, long exposure sessions in the cold sufficient to drain a couple of fully charged batteries? I'm in the balmy UK and the winter 30 sec. sessions I did this last winter didn't even get close to draining one battery before sending me scurrying back home to a warm fire. [ I know, I know; we're really soft down here in the tropical UK]. I can't help thinking you might have constructed a problem for yourself unnecessarily. With long exposures you are probably using a tripod [not essential I know] and working methodically and more slowly; two batteries should get you long past the shiver stage. ................ Chris Damn; I tried to post an image but the attachment facility wasn't functioning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marmelade Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted April 15, 2009 Are - I'm still puzzled. Are you having real problems not getting enough work done because of battery consumption? Or are you speculating that it is a problem waiting to happen? Steve is right of course, but you would likely have spare battery power for daylight exposures. You are in Oslo which I associate with dark winters and coldness. Are you really enduring, or planning to endure, long exposure sessions in the cold sufficient to drain a couple of fully charged batteries? I'm in the balmy UK and the winter 30 sec. sessions I did this last winter didn't even get close to draining one battery before sending me scurrying back home to a warm fire. [ I know, I know; we're really soft down here in the tropical UK]. I can't help thinking you might have constructed a problem for yourself unnecessarily. With long exposures you are probably using a tripod [not essential I know] and working methodically and more slowly; two batteries should get you long past the shiver stage. ................ Chris Damn; I tried to post an image but the attachment facility wasn't functioning. Thanks for your serious answer, i may not post to often on this forum but been around here for little while... and sometimes some peoples responses puzzle me. (more at the end) Well actually since having the M8 since 2006 ive been using it in wintertimes now for some years, without anybig problems really. Except than when shooting 15 sec or longer exposures one has to wait 15 secs again before next exposure. Lets say one does fireworks one year (which often is in winter time) or just out walking on crosscountry skies and want to do a long exposure with winds blowing snow (like water) over the scene. One might get a little annoyed about the extra exposure time. One wants to do this while FW are coming up or the moonlight is not behind a cloud. Im often in the mountains during winter and I like to bring the M8 as the one "trip" camera.. Batteries are of course kept close to body due to heath. Ive never said this was a big problem, but i was wondering if it was possible, and so far this thread has give around 10 answers, which only a few are really on the point. Yes i have more than one battery, yes i use tripod.., not meaning to be rude to anyone, but sometimes i understand how "new users" feel when getting the feedback from something that sometimes seems like grumpy old men =) Some years ago we had a project spending Newyears Eve outside, skipping the whole socalled celebration... -25 c, -32 c and -28 c was the temperatures then.. So yes it may be a little colder in the North =) and one can still go further North. And it seems that SJP thought this was a little intresting.. atleast .. best wishes, Are Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted April 15, 2009 Share #13 Posted April 15, 2009 Thanks for your serious answer,i may not post to often on this forum but been around here for little while... and sometimes some peoples responses puzzle me. (more at the end) I was being serious. You seemed concerned that the noise reduction exposure would cause battery drain. It can't be switched off. By having an additional battery you would be providing the additional charge that the noise reduction requires. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhulsenbeek Posted April 15, 2009 Share #14 Posted April 15, 2009 No it cannot be turned off and the results would not even come close to the noise-corrected version you get now. (it is not a noise reduction, but a hot-pixel correction) Well, not in the camera: Jaap is right. But if you load Picasa (from Google) you will get a view of the uncorrected/before correction DNG's. That is how I discovered my ' darn line' ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted April 15, 2009 Share #15 Posted April 15, 2009 That doesn't work. The camera still stays on until the black reduction image is taken. Ed, I just checked for myself and of course you're quite right, I must have been turning the camera off before it had finished the initial exposure. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted April 15, 2009 Share #16 Posted April 15, 2009 Ed, I just checked for myself and of course you're quite right, I must have been turning the camera off before it had finished the initial exposure. Pete. Yes Pete I've had to do that myself, and feel a little foolish at the same time. Arg Lens Cap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted April 16, 2009 Share #17 Posted April 16, 2009 ....sometimes some peoples responses puzzle me.....[/quote Are - We are all capable of grumpiness but I think all the people who responded to your post treated your question seriously, though some may have been puzzled [as I was] why the second exposure delay was an issue for you, though not for them. I'm glad you replied, and I now understand your desire for an alternative to the delay, and if I were making exposures in the temperatures you speak of I too would think that the second exposure is a delay too far. The answer to your original question seems to be no, but I'm impressed as hell that you make pictures in the temperatures you speak of. Sorry I was no help. ............... Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 16, 2009 Share #18 Posted April 16, 2009 Well, If you cant turn it off how can you know how the results will be without it ? =) Easy - If you switch on review you will see the actual noisy image and it will "jump" into a clean one in about 1/2 a second as the camera applies the hot pixel reduction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted April 16, 2009 Share #19 Posted April 16, 2009 I can confirm that the second exposure hits the battery. I was out doing a 360 HDR panorama which would have taken 48 shots, but after 32-33 the battery was dead. I had some preliminary exposures, and the battery was probably not full to start with, but I was shocked at how quickly it was over. And it was around 10 degrees C. In the end it was no big deal, as I was testing anyway, but it did teach me a lesson. If going out when its dark, especially if it's cold, fully charge the battery and bring a backup (or more). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottwyden Posted August 30, 2012 Share #20 Posted August 30, 2012 I think this is one of the downsides to the M9. There is currently no way to do a lot of long exposures without killing a battery. Unless I missed something and there is a battery extension pack somewhere? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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