luigi bertolotti Posted April 8, 2013 Share #41 Posted April 8, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Wow !!! Really a lucky find !! And it's a nice lens to use, also ; with the box, you could make instantly a 5x sale at least (see for instance Telyt 4/200mm - Telyt V 4/200mm - Leica Visoflex Lenses - LEICA .... or even this one at a notoriously costly shop : http://www.leica-store-berlin.de/de/produktliste/kategorie/visoflex-objektive.html ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 8, 2013 Posted April 8, 2013 Hi luigi bertolotti, Take a look here short focussing mount "pict added". I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
carlos.paula Posted April 14, 2013 Share #42 Posted April 14, 2013 At this next week I will send the first film I used in my IIIf, an Ilford B/W ISO 50. This film have pictures taken with three different lenses, the 50mm Summicrom, the Hektor 135 mounted directly to camera and the Telyt 200mm. I will share the best pictures, here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted April 23, 2013 Share #43 Posted April 23, 2013 Dear friends, about the Hektor, the technician could not dismount it. So, I'd take it to another one, to try one more time. The first film I made with this camera, an Ilford B/W ISO 50 was a tragedy...Almost totally underexposed. This means that the shutter velocity are not wrong, or to slow. Last week I made a complete lubrication and cleaning, including the disassembly of the slow governor. Checking against other camera, all seems to me good. Everyone have an idea to how check some high speeds like 1/100, 1/200 or 1/500? I read somewhere that using a fluorescent lamp this is possible... Tks a lot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted April 23, 2013 Share #44 Posted April 23, 2013 Everyone have an idea to how check some high speeds like 1/100, 1/200 or 1/500? I read somewhere that using a fluorescent lamp this is possible... Tks a lot. We always used to use an analog Television, as it scans the image in 1/30 second sweeps. This doesn't work with the new digital TVs, but if you have an old analog TV connected to a video source, you look through the shutter (no lens) at the screen while tripping the shutter. At higher speeds you see a diagonal slash on the screen, where the width of the slash is proportional to the shutter speed. You quickly learn what a 1/1000 or 1/500 should look like, and can see how uniform the speed is by how constant width the slash appears. You have to remove the body shell from an LTM to look through the shutter, of course. You can also focus on the screen with a lens and take pictures on film, then look at the negatives. There are also now fairly inexpensive shutter speed testers on the auction site. Mr. Zhou (who makes leather cases) carries one that works quite well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted April 24, 2013 Share #45 Posted April 24, 2013 Great! I know that the old CRT scans the screen twice in 1/60, because this old method is not progressive scan, First the cathode ray show only odd lines (1/30sec) and later even lines (more 1/30sec.), am I correct? So, taking a picture using 1/60, the whole frame will appear in the image. If I will use 1/125, only half of the frame will show the picture. Correct me if I am wrong, please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted April 24, 2013 Share #46 Posted April 24, 2013 Exactly right! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted April 25, 2013 Share #47 Posted April 25, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) And now I am disturbing you about another issue: I verified that a screw is missing (in number of three) which locks the synchro disc, which is mounted just below the external top speed disc. The speed disc has three screws also, but they are different and they are chromed. But, this does not interfere at all, because the synchro disc remains very fixed, even with two screws. According the Service Manual for the IIIf, this screw has the code M1,7X1,8DIN553. Maybe in Europe can I found some Leica servicing personnel that will have this screw? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted April 25, 2013 Share #48 Posted April 25, 2013 And now I am disturbing you about another issue: I verified that a screw is missing (in number of three) which locks the synchro disc, which is mounted just below the external top speed disc. The speed disc has three screws also, but they are different and they are chromed. But, this does not interfere at all, because the synchro disc remains very fixed, even with two screws. According the Service Manual for the IIIf, this screw has the code M1,7X1,8DIN553. Maybe in Europe can I found some Leica servicing personnel that will have this screw? Ask Dan Goldberg @dagcamera.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted April 26, 2013 Share #49 Posted April 26, 2013 Yeah! I contact him and he sold me one screw, and will send me by mail for only $8 bucks...Thanks a lot, a great help ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted May 14, 2013 Share #50 Posted May 14, 2013 Well, friends, my Hektor 135 returns from two attempts in technical repair shops without no way to be dismantled. Neither of them gave success in separate the ring from the front lens, as we discussed here, for use it with the ZOOAN. Have you idea about how can I unscrew these lens? I presume that this lens was never open. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted May 14, 2013 Share #51 Posted May 14, 2013 Well, friends, my Hektor 135 returns from two attempts in technical repair shops without no way to be dismantled. Neither of them gave success in separate the ring from the front lens, as we discussed here, for use it with the ZOOAN. Have you idea about how can I unscrew these lens? I presume that this lens was never open. No idea apart brutal force (torque, to say better) applied with proper aids/tools/protections : usually there are chemical products (similar to lubricants) that can be of help... provided that one finds the way to make them penetrate into the coupled threads... and this doesn't seem easy (nor free of risk of smudging) for your item. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted May 14, 2013 Share #52 Posted May 14, 2013 Well, friends, my Hektor 135 returns from two attempts in technical repair shops without no way to be dismantled. Neither of them gave success in separate the ring from the front lens, as we discussed here, for use it with the ZOOAN. Have you idea about how can I unscrew these lens? I presume that this lens was never open. Better if you find an another one, a later model obviously... there are cheap usually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted May 23, 2013 Share #53 Posted May 23, 2013 Friends, perhaps will be more convenient left the lens as it is... Another doubt that I need your help; I purchased an excellent OZWTO 16491 (double cable release), boxed and in mint condition. It cames with two screwed adaptors which I verified that I need them to fit correctly the IIIf release button and the Visoflex mirror button. Does have a way to sincronize them or not? I saw that there is a small black ring, only in one terminal; why? I verified that when I press the actuator slowly, the mirror raises up and when it is almost reaching the top, the shutter clicks... this seems to me that still has a little interference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted May 24, 2013 Share #54 Posted May 24, 2013 The black ringed on the Viso, if you push the button you can see that the black ringed cable is a little more longer than the other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted May 24, 2013 Share #55 Posted May 24, 2013 Ok, now I see that one is shorter than the other. Mounting the cable with the black ring on the Visio, the mirror raises totally before the shutter clicks. Thanks a lot, problem resolved! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted May 27, 2013 Share #56 Posted May 27, 2013 I decided to left my Hektor as is, no try to disassembly any more. Instead, I purchased via e-bay an Hektor, head only, by US$ 89,00, from Germany, excellent condition. I have a friend living there, which will bring it to me next month. Big hugs ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc_braconi Posted May 27, 2013 Share #57 Posted May 27, 2013 I decided to left my Hektor as is, no try to disassembly any more. Instead, I purchased via e-bay an Hektor, head only, by US$ 89,00, from Germany, excellent condition. I have a friend living there, which will bring it to me next month. Big hugs ! Cool ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spydrxx Posted May 28, 2013 Share #58 Posted May 28, 2013 Hi Paula - after reading your story, it occured to me that an old trick I used to use in woodworking might help loosten that collar. A women's hair dryer turned on low heat around the perimeter might expand it just slightly so you could unscrew it. You definitely don't want the whole assembly to become hot, just looking for a slight expansion. And good luck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted May 29, 2013 Share #59 Posted May 29, 2013 Yes, make sense blowing warm air, there...I will try this as soon as possible. Thanks a lot. BTW, I was warned about the fact that, in my city, around 1 million inhabitants, dont have more any place that still processes chrome (slides) film, process E6, like Ektachrome or Fujichrome. Now, only mailing the film to São Paulo, where still have some labs to do that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlos.paula Posted May 31, 2013 Share #60 Posted May 31, 2013 Here a little experience... an Hektor head mounted in a ZOOAN, an extension ring and an adapter ring to fit 39mm to 42mm and later, to a Nikon bayonet. I mount this crazy idea to my Nikon D90 and I will send pictures later. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/77279-short-focussing-mount-pict-added/?do=findComment&comment=2335313'>More sharing options...
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