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What hand-held exposure meter should I choose?


Carl E

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My first Leica M body was an M4-P, which I regret to this day having sold to finance the upgrade (?) to an M6. Many years (and Leicas) later, I am now tempted to sell my M6TTL and get a meter-less M body to go "back to basics" again. Most of my shooting these day is digital, but I want to be able to enjoy the fully manual silver halide workflow when I want to.

 

Now to the question: I am considering a hand-held meter (and not the Leicameter). Size (not too big) is a factor, as is low-light capabiltiy. What meter would you suggest to go with a "classic" M4 or M4-P body?

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I use a Weston Master V as a back up end for taking discreet reading when using my M6 Classics. As there is no such thing as a perfect exposure any meter will work it is how you calibrate it and use the information that is important. I would say consistency is the key. Under a given amount of light the meter should always give the same result which by and large they all seem to albeit on meter might give a totally different reading to one of another manufacturer but that really does not matter

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If you want better results than one can get from the built-in meter you'll need either an incident light meter or spotmeter. Which do you prefer?

What I want is a hand-held meter that would do both reflected and incident light in roughly a 30-40 degree measuring angle, ie not spot meter

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I am now tempted to sell my M6TTL and get a meter-less M body to go "back to basics" again.

Why not just take the battery out when you wish to work like that?

 

I have a Gossen Variosix F2, which, unlike some, allows me to choose the shutter speed I want rather than being stuck with the aperture value as the only user-selectable parameter.

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What I want is a hand-held meter that would do both reflected and incident light in roughly a 30-40 degree measuring angle, ie not spot meter

 

I work with two Leica M6 (Classic) without batteries, they are as manual as the M4-P, then get a Gossen Digisix which is a great and really small lightmeter...

 

(Du får dem billig på Digideal, Tøyen foto, i Oslo)

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I use a Minolta IV, as I like incident light metering. I also have a Sekonic studio deluxe which I rarely use, slower. As the previous poster said, take out the batteries, use them again when you prefer to have a smaller package. I find the meter of the M6ttl very convenient. Before I had a Gossen lunasix III , but that one was stolen together with a brand new Nikon F in the seventies. It was a fantastic lightmeter.

 

Etienne Michiels

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I own this version and the digi flash as a second for when I am shooting Kodachrome 25, I LOVE these little things!!

 

I work with two Leica M6 (Classic) without batteries, they are as manual as the M4-P, then get a Gossen Digisix which is a great and really small lightmeter...

 

(Du får dem billig på Digideal, Tøyen foto, i Oslo)

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Anything you will carry and use. I have a sekonic 308s and it's very good. But nowadays with my M2, I tend to use sunny 16 or variants thereof with HP5. OK I couldn't do that with Kodachrome, so that's when I take my meter or my CLE (which is truly excellent on AE).

 

Charlie

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I can swap you my M2 for your M6 if you don't want the temptation of using batteries :)

 

I also use a Minolta AutoMeter lV (check e bay) and Sunny 16.

Thanks for the offer, James but I have my eyes on a restored&re-painted M4-P which hopefully will reach me in a matter of days

 

Carl E

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  • 1 month later...

Lunasix 3. They probably need to be modified in order to use the voltage of the modern mercury-less batteries. There's even an attachment for spot metering, after a fashion.

 

Otherwise, the Sekonic L-398 is a good choice as it runs without any batteries. Changing between incident and reflected light can be a bit cumbersome, and it is less sensitive than the Lunasix.

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