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I'm a complete idiot


mdozier

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Load, shoot one frame and wind on, then take up tension in the spool with the rewind crank. The crank will then turn immediately the next frame is wound on.

 

My Dad taught me that.

 

thanks Andy you have just saved me 10% of my film costs.

 

andy

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Yep done that once or twice...now just watch the rewind crank to se that it moves...

 

What got me really close to tears once or twice was finishing the roll, and then calmly and with confidence may I add, removing the base plate BEFORE REWINDING THE F****in FILM:D

 

Now that is real joy!

 

cheers

andy

 

Done that, too

 

The answer to that one is simply slap that bottom back on as quick as you realize it and wind it up, send it to be processed just like always

 

You will probably lose only a couple or three frames as the rolled film is unlikely to be affected

 

I jammed my MP real good a couple times when new by failing to nudge the film over the sprockets at the top with the back open

 

Now that is a really sickening feeling when your camera is locked up tight as a vise--makes you think hard about how you've sinned in the recent past to earn such a fate

 

:D

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Done that, too

 

The answer to that one is simply slap that bottom back on as quick as you realize it and wind it up, send it to be processed just like always

 

You will probably lose only a couple or three frames as the rolled film is unlikely to be affected

 

I jammed my MP real good a couple times when new by failing to nudge the film over the sprockets at the top with the back open

 

Now that is a really sickening feeling when your camera is locked up tight as a vise--makes you think hard about how you've sinned in the recent past to earn such a fate

 

:D

 

I have done all this non-winding and jamming stuff loads and it has really distressed me. Jammed it up so bad it had to go back to Leica.

 

The M2 style old fashioned take up spool is far better IMHO, Just seems foolproof.

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Welcome to the club! Sorry to hear about your missed photos, yes it's a sickening feeling for sure. I've gotten into the habit of not only watching the rewind crank but also turning the crank in the rewind direction right after I load. This does two things (1) insure I haven't done what you just did and (2) help insure the film is as flat as possible against the rails. Maybe the pressure plate takes care of that anyway, but it can't hurt. Regardless, you'll get used to the difference in force needed to advance the film when it's properly loaded.

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Load, shoot one frame and wind on, then take up tension in the spool with the rewind crank. The crank will then turn immediately the next frame is wound on...

 

and if the film hasn't taken up properly, you'll feel zip resistance but for the feel of the leader going back into the cassette...

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The sad thing is not the possibly perfect picture you missed, but the time you wasted playing with your camera while your friends were around ;)

 

(i say that, because I can remember another complete idiot i know so well ...)

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Happend to me last week with my M7. Felt like an idiot too. I was thought to use my Leica like Andy mentioned in his last post. And it worked fine so far. Looks like it did something different. Or it had something to do, that I shoot in minus temperatures last week. Than again, the other three films of the same shooting got perfectly winded.

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Well, to describe how bad this can get, I've twice done this whilst shooting weddings with my MP. Fortunately, whilst shooting two cameras to save the day. I've also had a couple of instances where the teeth of the wind-on have cut through the sprocket holes after seeing the re-wind move. Whilst all indications are obvious, under the pressure of a wedding mistakes can be made. The tulip is not fail-safe. The M3 was more reliable and with a second pre-loaded spool was probably faster to change.

 

It doesn't happen any more to me as I've never had a problem since I started to bend 1 cm of the leader over flat. This seems to act as a hook inside the tulip and makes it reliable.

 

Also, has the benefits of making a louder noise as it releases from the sprocket on re-wind so that you know it's off and later identifies the film as used if not fully re-wound (which I tend to do if 36 exposures have been made).

 

Rolo

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Just the other day, shooting hatsumode, first offering of thanks of the new year, at Meiji Shrine, I managed to misload my M6 twice with the same roll. First, the 1/2 inch I bent over broke, leaving nothing for the trident to catch on, and then it took me an ungodly amount of time to get the sprocket teeth to engage on the second attempt.

 

Later, I coaxed that roll back out of the M6 to reload it with a different film. The first roll had fractured yet again and left shards of film in the the M6 that I had to fish out of the camera. I cut a new leader in it and loaded it into the SL2, where it wound on dutifully.

 

These cameras just make you feel dumb sometimes.

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wind the central spool of the film whilst holding the leader PRIOR to loading. This ensures the films is rightly wound before loading. load film correctly and wind. Now the rewing spools little red dots will start turning immediately and you will know you are taking up film. If you do not tighten the film first it can take half a dozen frames to take up the slack inside the film caniter before the actual film spool turns, causing the red dots to rotate. do this and you will always know before shooting your first frame that you are at least pulling film thru.

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