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M8.2 instructions? Auto iso


Basal Skull

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Surely it's a simple issue.

 

You want to work at the lowest manageable ISO.

 

I shoot at 160, at max aperture, until I see shake. Then I reluctantly increase the ISO.

 

How does auto ISO compare with that.

Crucially, do you ever find it UPs the ISO when you would have been capable of hand holding at a lower ISO?

 

For example, 160 always gives me best quality, even if higher ISOs may be 'acceptable'. What's your publication - that defines acceptability? It's can mean different things to different people.

 

The fact that the M8.2 offers snapshot mode and auto ISO suggests it is primarily aimed at making a manual camera useable for aspiring but untechnical customers.

 

From posts, auto ISO does benefit professional users - at least in convenience terms. But what is your assessment?

 

Regards,

Mark

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I also like the new auto-iso-feature for the M8 (have used it all the time with the D300 and D3). The lens-related setting is great to (with Nikon I have to change the shotest shutter time myself when I change the focal length).

Today I had a 50mm lens on the M8 but found that the ISO had been increased to higher ISO even though the exposure time was short enough to work with lower ISO IMO. (something like 1/180). I would have expected that the camera would choose maybe 1/60 or 1/125 for a 50mm lens and then increase ISO but not at 1/180.

Any thoughts/experiences?

cheers, Tom

You might haver to let the meter turn off then on again if you are going from a darker area to a lighter area.

I just did a little test and it seems to me you have to go from lower shutter speed to a much higher one to get the ISO to drop all the way to 160. If you are in a area that 1/90 or 1/125 would be used @ ISO 1250 (My high ISO limit) to a lighter area, say about 3 stops lighter, the ISO will drop to 320 but maintain the 1/125 SS. But if you go to a area that is say 5 stops brighter then the ISO will drop to 160.

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"Lens dependent shutter speed" refers to the rule of thump that a shutter speed of 1/focal length should give a sharp exposure. The M8 manual explains all this in the "How to Use the Flash" chapter. The following example is given: for the 50 mm Summicron this would mean a slowest shutter speed of 1/50 s. For the 21 mm Elmarit 1/20 s: with my M2 this would work, I am not so sure if this works on my M8 as well. Will give it a try. You run into problems though when not all your lenses are coded. I have no clue how the camera would react in that case.

 

Best regards, Maarten

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I agree.

 

I'm just curious how do you set the auto iso for a professional wedding work?

Regards.

Miguel

 

On Saturday, I had it set to a maximum of ISO 640 and a shutter speed of 1/30... worked like a charm moving very quickly through 3 different "ISO" / brightness zones.

 

Since I was only using one lens with the M8 (the very capable 28 Summicron), I didn't need to worry about these huge shifts.

 

With a slower lens I would have had to set the auto-ISO to 1250. But a cron or lux is going to be just fine in 99.99% of situations.

 

The other nice thing about this is that you get an "automatic" low-synch speed with the flash in very low-light as well, or the flash goes "off" (shutter too high to synch) in bright light.

 

Now, there will come a time when that would mess me up (fill-flash, bright ambient) and I generally like to keep the ambient about 1.5 stops under the key (flash), but all in all Leica knocked this one out of the park, IMO :)

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