Annibale G. Posted August 20, 2008 Share #1 Posted August 20, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, just something about film developing. I'm using developers like Kodak TMax and Agfa Rodinal. Do you know something more about these two developers? What diluition use for Rodinal? I use a 1lt tank What about for agitation time and temperature for both developers? Do you use the ones on information sheet of the products? I'm going to use these developers on Kodak Tri-X 400, Tmax 400 and Tmax 3200. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 20, 2008 Posted August 20, 2008 Hi Annibale G., Take a look here about film Developing. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted August 20, 2008 Share #2 Posted August 20, 2008 Digitaltruth Photo Click on the "Big Development Chart" on the top left - this will lead you to a system where you can see how to develop any film in any developer. V good it is too, as a starting point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jank Posted August 20, 2008 Share #3 Posted August 20, 2008 Hi Annibale, i have used Rodinal for years. Usually 1:100. It also works well using "water development" method for high contrasr scenes. few tips: 1/ right after pouring develope into tank knock the tank against sink to release possible air bubble . 2/ should the bottle with Rodinal have rubber stopper ( it used to) draw the concentrate thry stopper using syringe and needle.This way ther is no need to open the bottle, it will lat longer.It prevents oxidization.Rodinal tends to tur brownish after while due oxidisation I guess. 3/ keep the tank in water bath to keep it at constant temperature.Just hand agitation and ambient temp. has significant effect ( unless you always ahve convenience of the airconditioned place and 21C fingertips). Calibrate your development and exposure for each type of film.Make number of exposures of a blank wall, increase and decrease exposure of each sccessive frame by one stop. Then develope to evaluate results.Keep good records. You may be quite surprised when using water development how much detail you can gain in highligts.Try to photograph a filament in lightbulb to test it. Read about zone system ( Ansel Adams). Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted August 20, 2008 Share #4 Posted August 20, 2008 I'm using TMAX at the moment, bought a few packs for pennies from the local Jessops before it closed down. I've developed Fuji and Agafa films, using the charts on the Kodak website. Results have been fine so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted August 20, 2008 Share #5 Posted August 20, 2008 Rodinal will last for years without any problems. Even when it's turned dark brown it will still be ok. One of its advantages. After saying that I wouldn't personally use it for the faster films you mention. I'd expect it to give very grainy results. If that's what you're after then it won't be a problem. I've used a lot of Xtol and liked the results a lot. It's also very cheap. An alternative is D76 or ID11. All three come in powder form, but Xtol has the advantage of being mixed at room temperature. The massive development chart that Andy provided a link to will give you a good starting point for development times and temperatures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topoxforddoc Posted August 20, 2008 Share #6 Posted August 20, 2008 Like Steve, I'm a fan of XTOL too. Charlie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annibale G. Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share #7 Posted August 21, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) It is not too smooth in 1:100. For reportage photography it is not better 1:25 ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernmelder Posted August 25, 2008 Share #8 Posted August 25, 2008 I use Rodinal in 1:50 and it gives quite visible grain. Here with APX100: and this is how it looks like with Tri-X at box-speed 400: So apparently Tri-X has more visible grain then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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