ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #21 Â Posted June 23, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) did you shoot this with your noct? Â Hi Robert! Â Helas, no. I don't have a Noctilux (I bought a second M8 instead to have a backup camera). Â I have used the Summilux 35 and the Nokton 50. I also took a couple of pictures with the Summicron 90 APO ASPH but I haven't posted them because they were just the same. Â (Please, do not judge the composition or the artistic value of the pictures... it's just an example of my table with some lenses and my laptop in my cottage near Le Mans which is in renovation) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 23, 2008 Posted June 23, 2008 Hi ArtZ, Take a look here Sensor issue?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Guest WPalank Posted June 23, 2008 Share #22  Posted June 23, 2008 Artz, I opened the first jpeg in Camera RAW (possible in CS3) and used defringe edges and got the following result: (also warmed it slightly) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/56082-sensor-issue/?do=findComment&comment=588144'>More sharing options...
robertwright Posted June 23, 2008 Share #23  Posted June 23, 2008 I downloaded the dng's to play with in lightroom. one thing I noticed was that the as shot wb was cool, I upped the wb significantly and while the room goes very "warm" it does have the character of late afternoon light, however I am not sure this is what was there.  I also lowered the exposure significantly, used some recovery, fill light and brightness to get back to the midtone feeling, and lowered the black clipping.  doing this does take away the oversaturation in the blue channel, and that plus the defringe option in Lr gets rid of most of it.  I think both the blue and red channels are responding this way when overexposed, the green seems to be resisting more, there are twice as many green pixels. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/56082-sensor-issue/?do=findComment&comment=588150'>More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #24  Posted June 23, 2008 Artz,I opened the first jpeg in Camera RAW (possible in CS3) and used defringe edges and got the following result: (also warmed it slightly)  Wow! I'm REALLY impressed.  I use PS CS3 (Camera RAW 4.4.1) and when I go to "Lens corrections" and then "Defringe All Edges" or "Defringe Highlited Edges" nothing happens. What I'm missing?  Just one question, how you open a jpg file with "Camera RAW".  Thank you  (I think I must go back to the PS CS3 User's Guide...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WPalank Posted June 23, 2008 Share #25 Â Posted June 23, 2008 Art, It's pretty simple. First open Photoshop (these commands are for a mac but should be pretty similar in Windows.) Go to File>Open.... In the dialogue box that opens, select the image and down towards the bottom you will see a drop-down menu next to "Format:". Select "Camera RAW" in the drop-down and hit OK. Sometimes if the image looks funky, the reason is that it opens over 100%. Just select 100% from the drop-down in the lower left. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #26  Posted June 23, 2008 I downloaded the dng's to play with in lightroom. one thing I noticed was that the as shot wb was cool, I upped the wb significantly and while the room goes very "warm" it does have the character of late afternoon light, however I am not sure this is what was there. I also lowered the exposure significantly, used some recovery, fill light and brightness to get back to the midtone feeling, and lowered the black clipping.  doing this does take away the oversaturation in the blue channel, and that plus the defringe option in Lr gets rid of most of it.  I think both the blue and red channels are responding this way when overexposed, the green seems to be resisting more, there are twice as many green pixels.  Hi again Robert,  Thank you for your time on this.  I was doing exactly the same: playing with PS CS3 and Camera RAW. I can fix the pictures (more or less) playing with HSL, Camera Calibration (Blue Primary), WB, Recovery and Clarity commands. (In fact we can almost fix everything with PS!)  When I had this problem in the past, I retouched the pictures with Photoshop but I always thought it came from the Nokton(s) and not from the camera/sensor itself.  It's also true this didn't happen many times but I just wonder if Leica could fix this by firmware. As some people here I don't like to retouch my pictures... but that's another story.  Thanks again, mate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #27 Â Posted June 23, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Art,It's pretty simple. First open Photoshop (these commands are for a mac but should be pretty similar in Windows.) Go to File>Open.... In the dialogue box that opens, select the image and down towards the bottom you will see a drop-down menu next to "Format:". Select "Camera RAW" in the drop-down and hit OK. Sometimes if the image looks funky, the reason is that it opens over 100%. Just select 100% from the drop-down in the lower left. Â Well, maybe I'm really stupid but I think it doesn't work with Windows. When I "go to File>Open.... In the dialogue box that opens, select the image and down towards the bottom you will see a drop-down menu next to "Format:". Select "Camera RAW" in the drop-down and hit OK" only the files in RAW formats are visible inside the folder. I cannot select any jpg image, only DNG, RAW, CR2, NEF, etc... If I want to have the same controls than Camera RAW for jpg files, I use Lightroom instead. There's probably another way but I haven't find it yet. Â Thanks anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertwright Posted June 23, 2008 Share #28 Â Posted June 23, 2008 can you highlight the file in Bridge and choose open in camera raw from the file menu--shortcut apple-R on macs, not sure on pc's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WPalank Posted June 23, 2008 Share #29  Posted June 23, 2008 I just noticed this as it has always been the default on mine. Make sure "All readable documents" is enabled. You must have Camera RAW selected in the dropdown. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/56082-sensor-issue/?do=findComment&comment=588208'>More sharing options...
Shootist Posted June 23, 2008 Share #30 Â Posted June 23, 2008 William I think you have missed one point. You are using the PS Open dialog window not the OS default Open dialog window. I think it is also available in Window but by default PS is set to use the OS dependent Open dialog window. In that I don't think there are those option (I'm not in front of PS PC). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #31  Posted June 23, 2008 Thank you Robert and William  It doesn't work on a Windows computer. Menus are different and you have no choice to select another file format than a RAW format if you chose "Camera RAW" (or at least I cannot find it)  William I think you have missed one point. You are using the PS Open dialog window not the OS default Open dialog window. I think it is also available in Window but by default PS is set to use the OS dependent Open dialog window. In that I don't think there are those option (I'm not in front of PS PC).  Yes, PS Open dialog is also available in Windows (see my screen copy) but the option William point out "Enable All Readable Documents" is not available.  Never mind ! Thanks anyway  PS: I'm surfing on Robert Wright Photography web site and enjoying it. Nice place to visit Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/56082-sensor-issue/?do=findComment&comment=588224'>More sharing options...
Guest WPalank Posted June 23, 2008 Share #32 Â Posted June 23, 2008 Art, again, I'm not a Windows user but it looks like the only place you are looking is in "New Folder" somewhere on your computer. Use the "Look in:" drop-down to look somewhere else. Or click on Desktop or Documents on the left side of the window. Or what happens when you click on "Use OS dialog" button in the lower left? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WPalank Posted June 23, 2008 Share #33 Â Posted June 23, 2008 William I think you have missed one point. You are using the PS Open dialog window not the OS default Open dialog window. I think it is also available in Window but by default PS is set to use the OS dependent Open dialog window. In that I don't think there are those option (I'm not in front of PS PC). Â Yes, I'm using the "Adobe Dialog" which is what he is using because the "OS dialog" button is available in the lower left on his screen-shot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertwright Posted June 23, 2008 Share #34  Posted June 23, 2008 thanks!  I have a blog also, about photography:  robertwrightphoto.com  enough shameless promotion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #35  Posted June 23, 2008 Art, again, I'm not a Windows user but it looks like the only place you are looking is in "New Folder" somewhere on your computer. Use the "Look in:" drop-down to look somewhere else. Or click on Desktop or Documents on the left side of the window.Or what happens when you click on "Use OS dialog" button in the lower left?  William,  I created a folder on my desktop called "New Folder" with the pictures I took this afternoon as examples. Inside of that "New Folder" I created another folder call also "New Folder" where I saved the small jpg version to be posted here (960 pixels max).  I know this is confusing but as I will not keep these pictures, I was too lazy to rename the default Windows name for "New Folder".  In fact, inside the folder you see on the screen image, there're also the associated JPG files to the DNG files but PS CS3 doesn't show them because I have selected previously to open "Camera RAW" files. PS running on a Windows computer only shows the files that correspond to your selection and it doesn´t give you, like on a Mac, the extra option to open any file format with "Camera RAW".  If I chose the "Use OS Dialog", I get the same thing but with the Windows OS look. Take a look at the following screen copies:  Picture 1: All formats. If I chose a JPG file it will be open directly on PS CS3 AND if I chose a DNG file, it will be opened with Camera RAW  Picture 2: Camera RAW. Only DNG files are visible. I can only chose a DNG file and it will be opened in Camera RAW  I know it's difficult to understand each other because I don't have a MacOS version and you don't have a Windows version  Oufff... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/56082-sensor-issue/?do=findComment&comment=588258'>More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 23, 2008 Share #36  Posted June 23, 2008 Ok, this is chromatic abberation, plain and simple; I had a Canon pro tech. call it sensor birefringence and it occurs when a sensor and a fast lens draw high contrast highlights of many many many times the exposure limit.  All digital cameras do this, if they have fast enough lenses. The point and shoots suffer from a different kind of CA, and some have built-in processing now to take it out.  This is not a mystery and it's not a Leica problem. Canons do this *all the time* most notoriously with the 85 1.2L--it's green and blue all over the place.  So much so, that there's a very good cheap action to clean all this stuff up (if you can't get ACR to do this):  Shay Stephens Photography  Best $10 you'll ever spend.  BTW--your first shot is also riddled with flare--get the lens out of the light in a backlight situation like that (use your hand or something else to shield the lens) and you won't get so much of the fringing.  BTW2--Leica lenses are actually a gazillion times better with this effect than other lenses out there. One of the reasons I shoot the 85 Leica R on a 5d (and a DMR) is because its design doesn't lend itself to severe CA.  @ Jaap--your shot had nothing to do with CA. You just had reflected daylight highlights in a tungsten scene, and hence it was blue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #37  Posted June 23, 2008 thanks! I have a blog also, about photography:  Robert Wright Photography  enough shameless promotion.  Yes, yes... I know... actually I was reading your blog (I like it)  Well, next time I'll pop in in Brooklyn to see John Milich at the Navy Yard, I'll call you up to have a drink, have lunch or a coffee if you're around  (tssss...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografr Posted June 23, 2008 Share #38  Posted June 23, 2008 Thank you Robert and William It doesn't work on a Windows computer. Menus are different and you have no choice to select another file format than a RAW format if you chose "Camera RAW" (or at least I cannot find it)  I'm using a Windows platform and do this all the time. Open Bridge, highlight the image (jpeg, or whatever) you want to open, then select File> "Open In Camera Raw."  I just did it with your image: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/56082-sensor-issue/?do=findComment&comment=588275'>More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share #39  Posted June 23, 2008 Ok, this is chromatic abberation, plain and simple; I had a Canon pro tech. call it sensor birefringence and it occurs when a sensor and a fast lens draw high contrast highlights of many many many times the exposure limit.  All digital cameras do this, if they have fast enough lenses. The point and shoots suffer from a different kind of CA, and some have built-in processing now to take it out.  This is not a mystery and it's not a Leica problem. Canons do this *all the time* most notoriously with the 85 1.2L--it's green and blue all over the place.  So much so, that there's a very good cheap action to clean all this stuff up (if you can't get ACR to do this):  Shay Stephens Photography  Best $10 you'll ever spend.  BTW--your first shot is also riddled with flare--get the lens out of the light in a backlight situation like that (use your hand or something else to shield the lens) and you won't get so much of the fringing.  BTW2--Leica lenses are actually a gazillion times better with this effect than other lenses out there. One of the reasons I shoot the 85 Leica R on a 5d (and a DMR) is because its design doesn't lend itself to severe CA.  @ Jaap--your shot had nothing to do with CA. You just had reflected daylight highlights in a tungsten scene, and hence it was blue.  Thanks for the tip. I´ll order it tomorrow.   I'm using a Windows platform and do this all the time. Open Bridge, highlight the image (jpeg, or whatever) you want to open, then select "Open In Camera Raw."  YES!!! It works like that. Thank you.  (I must say I never use Bridge...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertwright Posted June 23, 2008 Share #40 Â Posted June 23, 2008 @jamie: do you find the action affects other areas of the image? or is it the magic bullet:D Â @ArtZ: definitely look me up! I too have visited JM in the Yards and I think it is the M8 owners pilgrimage stateside, Solms being the Mecca... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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