andybarton Posted November 8, 2008 Share #61 Posted November 8, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Out taking photographs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 8, 2008 Posted November 8, 2008 Hi andybarton, Take a look here What is your favorite B&W film and why?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
alw Posted November 8, 2008 Share #62 Posted November 8, 2008 LOL, at this stage I´m only accumulating gear. I dread the moment I HAVE to start taking pictures! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted November 8, 2008 Share #63 Posted November 8, 2008 The simple pleasures in life are the most rewarding....... D2 | ISO 100 | f2.2 | 1/60 | RAW via Lightroom Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/55391-what-is-your-favorite-bw-film-and-why/?do=findComment&comment=708860'>More sharing options...
alw Posted November 8, 2008 Share #64 Posted November 8, 2008 Oh yeah, should I invest in Adox developer or is Rodinal just fine? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted November 8, 2008 Share #65 Posted November 8, 2008 Both last forever! "Adox APH09 - This is the original Rodinal formulation from the pre-war days, and the replacement for the Calbe R09. Fine grain and an absolute classic developer which is ideally suited for use with older style films such as the ADOX CHS 25 and CHS 100. Used at a 1+25 dilution but can be diluted to 1+50 and even 1+100 so its very economical. This developer lasts forever in the bottle." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 8, 2008 Share #66 Posted November 8, 2008 Both last forever! Sorry but now I have to correct you: Rodinal will last (almost) forever. R09 (Calbe) about 1 1/2 year. Some manufacturers just changed from source: The Fomadon R09 (new) is since a few months also from CMS the former Agfa chemical plant in Vaihingen-Enz (Rodinal-Agfa). New type round corners of the bottles too and exactly the Rodinal dilutions now: 1+25, 1+50 etc. Efke single layers film are doing well in Para-Amino Phenol. R09 or Rodinal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
usefeet Posted November 9, 2008 Share #67 Posted November 9, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you can not handle these films yourself in B&W development, FORGET the Efle 25-50-100 and IR820C (an extended NIR version of the Efke 100) films. The emulsion is so soft that in a commercial roller development the film is badly damaged.DIY or forget these film quickly. Interesting fact. So which films have hard emulsion? Can your recommend any? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 9, 2008 Share #68 Posted November 9, 2008 Interesting fact. So which films have hard emulsion? Can your recommend any? All regular modern brands have a hard emulsion: Kodak, Ilford, Fuji, Rollei and the "problem" starts with Foma (Fomapan 100-T200-400, R100 (B&W slide)) not too bad, worser is Efke (25-50-100), OK single layer type film (Dr. Schleussner/Dupont 50's design), and the worst were the Forte films but the factory closed already for two year due to uneconomic production and quality failures. You can harden a film but for hand spiral development or D&D development it has only big disadvantages by the fix and wash procedure later (It takes MUCH more time then). Sometimes for sheet film development it can have advantages, depending on your developing method. Efke and Foma are often the choice when you need a "classical look" for your pictures. Here an example of Fomapan T200, a typical emulsion, a mix between hexagonal and classical cubical silver halide crystals, in R09 (Para-Amino Phenol) on E.I. 160 and Y-filter on the Elmarit 2,8/28mm in the M7. Tank development Jobo 1510. best regards, Robert (Dutch Foma distributor BTW ) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/55391-what-is-your-favorite-bw-film-and-why/?do=findComment&comment=709386'>More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 9, 2008 Share #69 Posted November 9, 2008 This is an electronic microscope projection of the Fomapan T200, Creative 200 film, also marketet in the USA under Arista brand. Well I do not think I have to explain where this photo is comming from Here the data sheet, you can also see on the graphics this film has a much lower speed in the most developers then iso 200. Use it between iso 100-160, depending on the type of developer for an N=0 development. http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/F_pan_200_en.pdf Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/55391-what-is-your-favorite-bw-film-and-why/?do=findComment&comment=709388'>More sharing options...
usefeet Posted November 9, 2008 Share #70 Posted November 9, 2008 "and the "problem" starts with Foma (Fomapan 100-T200-400, R100 (B&W slide)) not too bad, worser is Efke (25-50-100), " OK, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 9, 2008 Share #71 Posted November 9, 2008 Efke and Foma are often the choice when you need a "classical look" for your pictures. (Dutch Foma distributor BTW ) What would you say is the difference between Foma & Adox (Efke)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 9, 2008 Share #72 Posted November 9, 2008 Fomapan films are all multi layer films and especially the T200 (Creative 200) is in fact a very modern emulsion partial based on Fuji's Acros (Sigma) technology. Foma has been built the whole logistic dpt. in Tilburg for Fuji, the Netherlands in the past. There is the connection between the two international companies. Efke is a continuation of the single layer technology of the 50's. In fact a very old technique. Efke 50-100 are panchromatic types. Efke 25 is an almost orthochromatic film because it's sensitized till just 620nm. Fine grain and sharp. However the Rollei Pan 25 (made by Filmotec) and in fact an improved OrWo NP15 emulsion is even finer grained. In combination with a Beutler type of developer even sharper then Rodinal 1+50 or even 1+100. Beutler type developers are e.g. Tetenal Neofin Blue/Blau or Amaloco AM50. They are working in the surface of the film emulsion only. Based on Metol and or Pyrocatechine. All mentioned films are available in 35mm, 120 roll film and some of them even in 4x5" sheet film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHAG Posted November 9, 2008 Share #73 Posted November 9, 2008 If you can not handle these films yourself in B&W development, FORGET the Efle 25-50-100 and IR820C (an extended NIR version of the Efke 100) films. The emulsion is so soft that in a commercial roller development the film is badly damaged.DIY or forget these film quickly. Not so. I don't have time and gear to develop at the studio anymore, so I give films and developer bottles to my handmade lab, 200 yards from home. Best of both worlds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest flatfour Posted November 9, 2008 Share #74 Posted November 9, 2008 Grayscale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alw Posted November 10, 2008 Share #75 Posted November 10, 2008 OK, I´ve ordered some Adox rolls and I´m developing them by hand. Is the emulsion so soft that I cannot even wipe the negatives dry? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted November 10, 2008 Share #76 Posted November 10, 2008 Is the emulsion so soft that I cannot even wipe the negatives dry? Whipe a negative dry with a squeegee is THE way to loose even your Efke emulsion on the tri-acetate layer. Apart from the risk of telegraph cables......when something is in between the blades. So do not do this. Use after the wash a good wetting agent in the right concentration. Then you will end with some negatives without stripes, drying marks and damage. When the (tap-) water is hard (so a lot of Carbonates) use Demi-water. Succes, Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted November 10, 2008 Share #77 Posted November 10, 2008 I always use de-ionised water for the final rinse to avoid drying marks. I 'snap' the reel with the film still in it to remove as much of the water as possible.. Squeegee is a total no-no in my experience whatever the film. No need to use much wetting agent, I find 3-5 drops enough. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted November 10, 2008 Share #78 Posted November 10, 2008 I always use de-ionised water for the final rinse to avoid drying marks. I 'snap' the reel with the film still in it to remove as much of the water as possible.. Squeegee is a total no-no in my experience whatever the film. No need to use much wetting agent, I find 3-5 drops enough. Same here. The instructors at the services intelligence photography school had some very nasty punishments for those who even mentioned the name - or worse - used their fingers as a squeegee! I use distilled water for mixing the chemicals as well along with an alkaline fixer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolo Posted November 10, 2008 Share #79 Posted November 10, 2008 - or worse - used their fingers as a squeegee! Guilty as charged, Sir ! Always done it, probably always will. T'was more difficult with 5x4 sheet film, but it didn't stop me. Dip fingers in diluted wetting agent first. Adds my DNA to my work. Rolo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted November 10, 2008 Share #80 Posted November 10, 2008 Guilty as charged, Sir ! Always done it, probably always will. T'was more difficult with 5x4 sheet film, but it didn't stop me. Rolo Rolo - with sheet film use your thighs! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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