cirke Posted April 14, 2008 Author Share #41 Posted April 14, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) thank you Tina that 24/2.8 seems a good lens Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 14, 2008 Posted April 14, 2008 Hi cirke, Take a look here bests M8 lenses for landscapes. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
giordano Posted April 15, 2008 Share #42 Posted April 15, 2008 you are right ! for landscape photography f/5.6 is the very minimum I am using, I use f/16 90% of the time If you work at f/16 there is no need to spend money on modern Leica lenses: at such small apertures their performance is limited by diffraction effects. If you never work wider than f/5.6 then the difference between the current 28mm and 35mm Leica lenses is a matter of price rather than performance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 15, 2008 Share #43 Posted April 15, 2008 At f16 one will be hard pushed to see any difference in print between the cheapest CV and the most expensive Leica lens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted April 15, 2008 Share #44 Posted April 15, 2008 I agree, and the lens isn't being used at its 'optimum' aperture either. You're more likely to get sharper results at f5.6 than f16. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirke Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share #45 Posted April 15, 2008 @f/16 with Canon 1Ds Mark III and Canon 5D works fine f/22 with Hasselblad Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 15, 2008 Share #46 Posted April 15, 2008 Nothing to do with the camera. Basic optical theory. If you make a hole through which light falls small, the light gets diffracted ("bent around the edge") It differs with frequency too, so it will also show up as chromatic aberration. With most lenses diffraction sets in between f8 and f11. That is what Steve means when he tells you you are not using your lenses at optimum aperture. Of course depth of field or exposure considerations can induce us to use lenses at less-than-optimum settings, especially as the differences are not too large. Medium format lenses will have higher aperture numbers for diffraction, as the physical size of the aperture is larger. Small format cameras can show diffraction at quite wide apertures, for the same reason. That tallies with your experience. With a Canon wideangle the diffraction at f16 will probably be drowned in the generic chromatic aberration and thus not be visible, and f 22 on a Hasselblad sounds about right for the aperture where it just sets in. With Leica wideangles one can often see the onset of diffraction from f 8 or even f 5.6. The better the lens, the more noticable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delander † Posted April 15, 2008 Share #47 Posted April 15, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Personally I would not take a landscape photograph at f16 on my Canon 5D (and I would not recommend it on the 1DS3 either) unless there is something really close that needs to be in focus. Best at f8 or thereabouts. There was thread on DPReview a few weeks back when the 1DS3 was new. The poster took a landscape shot comparing the 1DS3 with the 1DS2 and the 1D3. He uprezzed the files from the other cameras to match. His observation was that the difference in detail recorded between the three cameras - even the 10mp 1D3 - was hardly discernable. It was only when it was revealed that the shots were taken at f22 that the Canon gang on DPR realised that the test was flawed. Attached 'landscape' and crop is from an M8 with 50cron at f5.6 (bit of a guess). Jeff Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/50662-bests-m8-lenses-for-landscapes/?do=findComment&comment=537840'>More sharing options...
ndjambrose Posted April 15, 2008 Share #48 Posted April 15, 2008 @f/16 with Canon 1Ds Mark III and Canon 5D works finef/22 with Hasselblad Agreed, but not directly comparable to Leica lenses due to the differences in size. I shoot plenty of landscapes on a Hasselblad too, and like you usually in the f16 - f22 range. But with Leica lenses I rarely stop down more than f5.6. Diffraction is very noticeable in smaller formats. Shooting at f16 on a summicron captures less resolution than at f8, for instance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirke Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share #49 Posted April 15, 2008 Personally I would not take a landscape photograph at f16 on my Canon 5D (and I would not recommend it on the 1DS3 either) unless there is something really close that needs to be in focus. Best at f8 or thereabouts. There was thread on DPReview a few weeks back when the 1DS3 was new. The poster took a landscape shot comparing the 1DS3 with the 1DS2 and the 1D3. He uprezzed the files from the other cameras to match. His observation was that the difference in detail recorded between the three cameras - even the 10mp 1D3 - was hardly discernable. It was only when it was revealed that the shots were taken at f22 that the Canon gang on DPR realised that the test was flawed. Attached 'landscape' and crop is from an M8 with 50cron at f5.6 (bit of a guess). Jeff TimeCatcher - Experience The Beauty >> Canon 1Ds Mark III, 16-35 f/2.8 II lens, 4-stop graduated filter, polarizer, 4.5 minute exposure at f/16. TimeCatcher - Experience The Beauty >> Canon 5D, 17-40 f.4 L lens at 17mm, 2-stop GND filter, polarizer, 1.3 seconds at F14 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted April 15, 2008 Share #50 Posted April 15, 2008 I don't see an Eric on that site.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
delander † Posted April 15, 2008 Share #51 Posted April 15, 2008 WOW, Yes very beautiful photographs Eric, but using a small aperture and ND filters to produce a certain depth of field and time lapse effect. In this instance, where detail sharpness is secondary I stand corrected. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirke Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share #52 Posted April 15, 2008 I don't see an Eric on that site.... you can see f/16 everywhere with 5D or 1Ds Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirke Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share #53 Posted April 15, 2008 WOW, Yes very beautiful photographs Eric, but using a small aperture and ND filters to produce a certain depth of field and time lapse effect. In this instance, where detail sharpness is secondary I stand corrected. Jeff it is not my website sharpness is good enough @f/16 for landscape photography and you get a lot of advantages, and on 1Ds and 5D @f/16 the diffraction is neglible Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauribix Posted April 15, 2008 Share #54 Posted April 15, 2008 it is not my websitesharpness is good enough @f/16 for landscape photography and you get a lot of advantages, and on 1Ds and 5D @f/16 the diffraction is neglible Isn't diffraction due to lens characteristic and not to the camera/sensor/film?(I've always believed that) Anyway I don't know what to suggest for the best lens to be used for landscapes, but i can tell you what i use the most for that aim: 35 asph (cron or lux) both at full aperture or at f5.6 21 elmarit ASPH 50 elmar-M 90 elmarit-M CV 15 and 12 both always at F8 or F11 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirke Posted April 15, 2008 Author Share #55 Posted April 15, 2008 thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Printmaker Posted April 15, 2008 Share #56 Posted April 15, 2008 Whenever I go out to shoot landscapes, I leave with a 21 on the M8 but end up using a 35 most of the time. If I had a 28, I'd want a 50 for shooting the details. Having all three focal lengths in one lens makes sense. Of course then you'd probably want a faster lens to go along with your Tri-Elmar. My desert island (and I can see Niihau from here) lens is the 35 Summicron. My .02 Tom Photo is Niihau, the furthest western point of the US at sunset 12.31.99 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/50662-bests-m8-lenses-for-landscapes/?do=findComment&comment=538369'>More sharing options...
gwelland Posted April 15, 2008 Share #57 Posted April 15, 2008 Seems to me that the OP is convinced that the lens has to shine at f/16 - so be it. In my experience I've had success with landscapes shooting with: WATE Zeiss 21/2.8 28 Cron CV 35/1.2 75 Cron 135/3.4 APO I've used a whole bunch of other lenses such as the MATE, 50's (Noct. Zeiss 50/2), and wide CV's (12 & 15) but these have not been my first choice lenses for critical landscape work. Nothing wrong with any of them and with the exception of the MATE I still have them and use them when the circumstances are right. If my camera bag were stolen and I decided to start again and I wanted ultimate sharpness and resolution it would still be the following: WATE 28 Cron 75 Cron 135 APO Of course, YMMV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL2006 Posted April 18, 2008 Share #58 Posted April 18, 2008 I use 21mm & 15mm on the M8, together with the Ricoh 21/28 viewfinder, most of the time for landscape. I like the 15/21 combo Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/50662-bests-m8-lenses-for-landscapes/?do=findComment&comment=539976'>More sharing options...
KM-25 Posted April 18, 2008 Share #59 Posted April 18, 2008 The best landscape lens for *any* camera is one that is sharp at infinity and does not flare so easily. That is how I base my landscape lenses. I also still shoot a lot of and prefer film for landscapes using either a Hasselblad XPan with the 30, 45 and 90 or 500 C/M with a 50 f4 FLE, 100 f3.5 or 180 f4. The Hasselblad 100mm 3.5 CF is one of my workhorse aerial lenses...and aerial landscapes sell incredibly well by the way. If I have to take the M8 like I do tomorrow for a remote back country excursion that *has* to be digital for deadline reasons, I take the only three Leica lenses I own: 28, 35 & 50. Thankfully, all three of my Leica M lenses do well at infinity... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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