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Which Version of 135mm Tele-Elmar to Get?


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I have read some very positive comments here about older Tele-Elmars. They seem to be easy to find, and, they are very cheap in comparison to most Leica lenses.

 

What about the later version, with the built in hood--dating from the 90's I am guessing? Is it as good or better than the older model? What is the price range (used of course) for it in excellent condition?I'd be interested in hearing what anyone who has used it has to say about it. Thanks.

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The optical specifications of this lens were not changed from its introduction in 1965 to its discontinuation in 1998. The late specimens with the redesigned mount are more convenient to use maybe, but optically all these lenses are phenomenal. If the lens is in good optical and mechanical shape, it's a very good buy. If there's no hood, no problem – the old mount takes the same hood as the current Macro-Elmar 1:4/90mm – and that was introduced in 1959 for the 90mm Elmarit! This may well be Leica's most perennial accessory ever ...

 

The old man from the Age of the 135

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Over the years, only the coatings were adapted. That may result in a slightly different colour rendering, but that is of course irrelevant in digital photography. The only thing to watch on the older mounts, where the lens head can be unscrewed, is that the number scratched into the mount matches the serial number of the lens.

 

For lenses with pristine glass expect to pay from 300 Euro for a user old type to 800 Euro for a mint newest type.

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I recently bought a circa 1961 135/f4 Elmar on the bay & was really pleasantly surprised when it focused perfectly as soon as it was mounted on my 2007 M8. Love the low contrast, long throw nature of this lens. Here are a couple of pics taken with this lens from a recent wedding I covered. I don't think you will be disappointed with buying one of these babies, regardless of when it was made.

 

Cheers

Evad

 

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Yes, the 1960–64 Elmar 1:4/135 was and is a very competent and pleasant lens. It may well be worth investigating for those that often have problems with the handling of contrast. But it is not a tele design, so it is l-o-n-g!

 

The old man from the Age of 135mm Lenses

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I bought a f4/135, 1986 vintage Tele-Elmar last year completely new, unused and still sealed in its factory bag for €450 in Germany. I think the man was horrified that I intended to use it and not leave it in the bag in a display cupboard - each to their own! It is a beautifully made lens, with the smoothest focusing of all my 8 Leica lenses. I was not expecting a great deal from it but was very pleasantly surprised how well it performs on the M8. I also looked at the f2.8 Elmarit but was put off by the fact that you would really have to factor a rebuild into your costing except for a very recent one (the spectacles are notorious for going out of alignment and the lens seems particularly prone to fungus separation). In addition they are very heavy and rather awkward with their spectacles. In the end I am delighted with my T-E purchase.

 

Wilson

 

Taken on Friday with the T-E

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  • 1 year later...
Hullo Jaap,.

What coding - if any - would you suggest for the 135 f/4 Tele-Elmar version 3 E46

David Watts.

Cornwall

 

David,

 

I have mine coded as a 135 elmarit 2.8. I don't think you need to code apart from the convenience of it showing up on the EXIF's. What I have not been able to achieve as yet is to code in a different position so that the coding shows up when the lens is over-rotated to bring up the 90mm frame-lines.

 

Wilson

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Optically different, but the Elmar is still a decent lens. Having said that, there are a number of variations of Elmars, dating back to 1930 and the first ones had to be adjusted individually to the camera, so it may be a better idea to stick with the Tele-Elmar.

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What I have not been able to achieve as yet is to code in a different position so that the coding shows up when the lens is over-rotated to bring up the 90mm frame-lines.

 

Wilson, can you please explain this? What do you mean for over-rotated?

Maybe I amd about to buy one, so the more I know, the better.

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If you hold in the lens release button, and rotate the lens past the normal point where it clicks, you can force another frameset. This may move the coding to a point where it may no longer be recognized though.

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"Force" is maybe a misleading word in this context. This has always been possible on M cameras. One simplly rotates the lens past the click against the stop, no risk of breaking or bending anything at all. The nice thing about 135 lenses is that the contact between the roller of the RF arm in the body and the focus transmitting mechanism in the lens is parallel, so this trick will not change the focus.

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If you hold in the lens release button, and rotate the lens past the normal point where it clicks, you can force another frameset. This may move the coding to a point where it may no longer be recognized though.

 

I can tell you from personal experience, the coding does not work over-rotated. If you redraw the coding lines, sometimes it works; sometimes it does not. I think the problem is that the "stop" position of over-rotation is not precise enough to get coding consistently recognised.

 

John Milich offered to mill a longer locking slot to give me a positive stop and at the same time, mill coding slots in the over-rotated position. I have not sent the bayonet to him, as I have heard rumours of the T-E not focusing properly after amateur removal and replacement of the bayonet. My T-E focuses so well on my M8, I don't want to upset the apple cart.

 

The over-rotation is not as effective anyway with the upgraded framelines, as the 90 mm frameline is now much nearer to 90 mm than it was at infinity, pre-upgrade. I would have guessed before, it framed about 105-115 mm. It is now easier to use the RF patch and a bit more than double it for a 135 frame.

 

Wilson

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