jc_braconi Posted February 8, 2008 Share #1 Posted February 8, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) What is your experience with the M coder kit from Tim Isaac ? Thanks for your answers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 8, 2008 Posted February 8, 2008 Hi jc_braconi, Take a look here M coder kit. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
cbretteville Posted February 8, 2008 Share #2 Posted February 8, 2008 Excellent. I've coded several lenses using the kit. Also makes it easy to try different codes on a lens to see which one is a best fit. - Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eziomi Posted February 8, 2008 Share #3 Posted February 8, 2008 Excellent. I coded all my lens quickly and easly . EM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpStart Posted February 8, 2008 Share #4 Posted February 8, 2008 It's fine. I coded some of my lenses successfully. The ones that wouldn't code had either screws, or cut mounts that would not permit the coding to happen. DBK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdgerston Posted February 8, 2008 Share #5 Posted February 8, 2008 I've had the coder about a week now, and am having trouble coding my 24 Elmarit and 90 Elmarit. I've tried several times, but the camera doesn't recognize either one. I'm not giving up, because so many have had success with the kit, but I'm wondering what my problem is....anyone else had trouble, but then found some answer? I follow the directions exactly, the dots look right, I use the pen included in the kit...no luck. The camera does correctly identify my officially Leica-coded lenses, so I know the problem isn't in the camera. Curt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdrmd Posted February 8, 2008 Share #6 Posted February 8, 2008 It arrived promptly, and it works as advertised. DR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julius Bjornsson Posted February 8, 2008 Share #7 Posted February 8, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've had the coder about a week now, and am having trouble coding my 24 Elmarit and 90 Elmarit. I've tried several times, but the camera doesn't recognize either one. I'm not giving up, because so many have had success with the kit, but I'm wondering what my problem is....anyone else had trouble, but then found some answer? I follow the directions exactly, the dots look right, I use the pen included in the kit...no luck. The camera does correctly identify my officially Leica-coded lenses, so I know the problem isn't in the camera.Curt I had some problems with the kit and found when I put the coder ring on my 28 mm Elmarit -M that only half of the black dots showed through the holes. There is presumably some variation in the production. i however think Tim is sending me a new ring. But I modified mine until the holes corresponded with the spots on the 28 and after that I could code all my other lenses. So get hold of a factory coded lens, try your coder on it and see if it is correctly aligned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted February 8, 2008 Share #8 Posted February 8, 2008 Mine was fine too once I'd broadened the black spots slightly on my 35 'Cron asph. My other lenses worked fine first time. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHAG Posted February 8, 2008 Share #9 Posted February 8, 2008 After how many mountings/unmountings does the coding erase ? Is there a way to avoid this with some permanent ink marking (kind of serigraphy) ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdgerston Posted February 8, 2008 Share #10 Posted February 8, 2008 I had some problems with the kit and found when I put the coder ring on my 28 mm Elmarit -M that only half of the black dots showed through the holes. There is presumably some variation in the production. i however think Tim is sending me a new ring. But I modified mine until the holes corresponded with the spots on the 28 and after that I could code all my other lenses. So get hold of a factory coded lens, try your coder on it and see if it is correctly aligned. Great idea....thanks, I'll try it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotogo Posted February 9, 2008 Share #11 Posted February 9, 2008 After how many mountings/unmountings does the coding erase ?Is there a way to avoid this with some permanent ink marking (kind of serigraphy) ? Yesterday Dirk A. contacted me after receiving my Coder Kit. He used a burring tool found in dentistry. Because of his practice with this burring tool he was able to texture the surface of his lens base in the positions corresponding to the required encoding marks. After texturing he applied the ink using the M-Coder. He claims this formed a very durable mark on the lens that does not wear off. One can think of the texturing as a sort of micro pocket for the encoding marks. All of his lenses were encoded successfully using this technique. There is a very serious nature to this procedure. That is the use of the burring tool, which may turn at 10,000 rpm, and could easily get out of hand and 'walk' across the lens mount surface in places you don't want it to go! Also, there are the metal fragments that can become airborne and can find their way everywhere. If this technique is carefully practiced with great care and in skilled hands, it can certainly improve the durability of the encoding marks. Here is a photo he sent me of the burring tool. it may be about 20mm in length, or smaller. I do not have a sense of the scale of it yet. He may have even used it through the openings of the M-Coder. I will ask about those details and post here again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norm_snyder Posted February 9, 2008 Share #12 Posted February 9, 2008 JC-- My experience with the coder kit has been excellent all around. First, the kit is nicely finished and packaged, and it works precisely as intended. The temporary self-coding will wear after several lens changes [8-10 or so, in my case], but generally only some of the pigment is removed, so that I can still see the location of the marks on the flange, and use a sharpie marker that I keep in a side pocket of my Domke bag to darken the marks, when needed [if I'm out shooting, I'll usually check the lenses before I go out]. I really have not had the camera fail to recognize the lens that is on, as marked. As for the the transaction, it couldn't really be easier or more pleasant. Communication is excellent, shipping rapid, and packaging fine. I've now gotten a Thumbs Up Model 1 and the Coder kit from Tim, and just ordered the Thumbs up w/ cold shoe for my other M8. Norm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted February 9, 2008 Share #13 Posted February 9, 2008 He used a burring tool found in dentistry.. . . There is a very serious nature to this procedure. That is the use of the burring tool, which may turn at 10,000 rpm, and could easily get out of hand and 'walk' across the lens mount surface in places you don't want it to go! Also, there are the metal fragments that can become airborne and can find their way everywhere. If this technique is carefully practiced with great care and in skilled hands, it can certainly improve the durability of the encoding marks. Hmm, I just might try something similar on one of my LTM-M adapters to see how it holds up. As it would be on a loose adapter there is much less risk involved. - Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brivadois Posted February 16, 2008 Share #14 Posted February 16, 2008 I'm very interested by this product but I'd like to know if the M-Coder works fine with the CV Skopar 21 and Superwide 15 ? Thanks for your help. François Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted February 16, 2008 Share #15 Posted February 16, 2008 François Since these are both thread mount lenses you will need to use M to LTM adaptors and the M-Coder works with these adaptors. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brivadois Posted February 16, 2008 Share #16 Posted February 16, 2008 Pete, Thanks for your help. I still get the CV 21in M mount (no adaptor needed) and there is a lot of screws on it. That's why I'm asking for. François Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichelB Posted February 16, 2008 Share #17 Posted February 16, 2008 I'm very interested by this product but I'd like to know if the M-Coder works fine with the CV Skopar 21 and Superwide 15 ? Thanks for your help. François Oui François, ça marche très bien avec le CV Skopar 21. Yes, it works very well with CV Skopar 21 but not with the Planar 50/2 due to the screw at wrong place. CornerFix considers this lens as a Summilux 50/1.4 instead of Summicron 50/2. 4 days from order to delivery. Michel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesurf Posted November 14, 2010 Share #18 Posted November 14, 2010 Hi, has anyone used the M Coder with Zeiss lenses, specifically the 21 f/2.8 and 50mm f/2? TIA Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Johnson Posted November 16, 2010 Share #19 Posted November 16, 2010 Hi, has anyone used the M Coder with Zeiss lenses, specifically the 21 f/2.8 and 50mm f/2?TIA Yes, the 2.8/21mm. It works fine. Cya, Johnny Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearlight Posted November 16, 2010 Share #20 Posted November 16, 2010 Does anyone know if there is a code for the CV 15mm, and for a type 1 50mm summicron? Does it work with a CV M-adaptor? There is a cutout right where the code dots should be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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