Kit protection - desert and then the arctic

[Intothewoods]

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Morning all,

 

I’ve got an SL2 and a few lens. I have a few photography trips planned this year - one the the desert and skeleton coast in Namibia and then up into the arctic circle in Finland in the winter. 
 

I'm hoping for some advise on kit protection? Obviously very different environments a lot of sand and heat and then a lot of cold and moisture. 

I was thinking of building a padded insert to go into my fjallraven stuben (best day pack on the planet) that sits within a front opening waterproof cube.

I’ll have a lot of other kit with me so will need a good pack.

 

[Stuart Richardson]

I can't speak that well to the desert, though we do have them to some extent here too near the glaciers, but I would say the cold and moisture do not bother the SL2. I have had mine for five winters in Iceland and never once had an issue with moisture...not even a slightly fogged viewfinder. I have never had an issue in blowing sand either, but do my best to avoid it. Just be mindful of changing lenses in particularly bad conditions. I typically don't use sealed bags, just ones that are made of waterproof material. Mostly Billingham and Fogg bags, so nothing that is designed to float if it falls in a river etc. I should say that most of the time I am using the Leica APO Summicrons or 90-280mm in these conditions, and apparently they have more substantial sealing than some other lenses. 

Anyway, my general take is that unless you are trying to photograph in driving rain, the danger of moisture is kind of overrated. I have lived here almost 20 years and photographed with mostly unsealed analog cameras and never had a moisture problem even in mist and light rain, and nothing with the cold worse than having the batteries go dead a bit sooner than usual. I don't think that stuff really becomes a major consideration with modern pro gear until you are down below -20C. The best overall advise I can give is to keep the camera in a bag where it is dry and protected unless you are actively shooting. If the weather is terrible, try not to carry it around your neck or shoulder...use the bag. In a sandy environment, use a UV filter to protect the camera. If the lens does get dusty, I would recommend not cleaning it until you have access to a blower brush and lens cleaning liquid. Trying to clean off a dusty lens by rubbing with a cloth is a recipe for cleaning marks or scratches. It's helpful to remember what the dust is made of: in Iceland, typically volcanic glass. In the desert, typically rocks and minerals. Rubbing it around on your lens glass is not a great idea, even if you think you are being gentle. Putting cleaning marks on a filter is one thing, on an APO Summicron is another. 

Edited August 15 by Stuart Richardson

[Hans-Dieter Gülicher]

No problems. I was in the Atacama, Antarctica, Greenland, Norway etc. My camera sets S3 with Vario or M 10-R with APO-Summicorn 35 and 75 mm, my friend with SL2. Temperature in Norway -22 °C / 12 beaufort in the Atacama up to 45 °C.

[jaapv]

I have an SL601 and SL2S   Both did not have any problems in the mountains in the winter( spare battery in a warm pocket). The SL601 has been in arid and dusty conditions in Africa and did not need any special precautions either but I took great care with changing lenses. But bear in mind that all digital cameras are rated to work between something like 0 and 40 degrees Centigrade. So not letting the things get too cold and hot pays off. 

[Rmccoole]

I just finished my first trip with a ThnkTank Mindshift Backlight 26L backpack that I found fantastic. Check it out on their site. It has the padded waist belt support that really helped  the wear on my shoulders when loaded. I’ve liked all their products.

[Intothewoods]

That’s really helpful. I’ll be in northern Finland, well inside the arctic circle, probs at worst minus 30-40. 
 

Very reassuring the SLs cope with cold weather. I’ll probably put an insert into my stuben I think. Completely air tight may make it worse as moister is likely to get in via snow and frost on the camera. 
 

Namibia should be fine as I can mostly keep the camera in the vehicle which has AC and change lens there. 
 

Anyone taken their SL to Antarctica?

[Stuart Richardson]

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If the temperature is below -30, my guess is that your endurance will be more the challenge than the camera's. SL cameras are good with gloves, but with that level of cold, you are probably going to want a combo of thick glove liners with insulating mittens over them. The same kind of principle for your feet...It will also depend on whether there is wind. But in general, unless you are gearing up for an expedition, I think your own clothing is going to be more of a factor than the camera in that weather. If you are going for aurora photography, that is also one of the worst things, as you are mostly just standing completely still and waiting. In that level of cold, my guess is that you are going to need multiple spare batteries that you keep warm and next to your body so that you can swap them out. Looking up Lapland, however, it seems like the average low is more like -16C, so something like -40 doesn't seem super likely...or necessarily worth spending a lot of time in even if it does occur! 

[jaapv]

Regarding filters, in my experience using Nano coated protective filters is the best option. They clean easily;  coatings and glass are more scratch resistant than UV filters. 

[Carlos cruz]

1 hour ago, Intothewoods said:

That’s really helpful. I’ll be in northern Finland, well inside the arctic circle, probs at worst minus 30-40. 
 

Very reassuring the SLs cope with cold weather. I’ll probably put an insert into my stuben I think. Completely air tight may make it worse as moister is likely to get in via snow and frost on the camera. 
 

Namibia should be fine as I can mostly keep the camera in the vehicle which has AC and change lens there. 
 

Anyone taken their SL to Antarctica?

I regularly take my ms to the mountains in winter, they’ve seen Karakoram, high alps and what not, never had a problem, but always keep it under my outer layer, shutter can freeze over if you just leave it outside, and it’s better for batteries. I usually don’t put my camera in backpack- it’s easy to justify missing the photo because it’s too hard to stop, take your backpack off, remove gloves etc it’s easier and faster to have camera on you all the time. 
Few years ago when prepping for winter film we tested equipment beforehand in big walk-in freezer. Most of the equipment was ok up to -40"C except on camera monitors, they started to  slow down refresh rate, EVF was okay though. Batteries were held  in a bag with chemical warmers. The most demanding part when shooting in the cold is waiting, I haven’t found boots that will keep you warm when standing/sitting for two hours, as long as you walk/move you’ll be ok.

When going back into warmth you want to let condensation to evaporate just put your camera lenses in airy warm place for an hour, remove filters, caps etc.

[jaapv]

15 minutes ago, Carlos cruz said:

I haven’t found boots that will keep you warm when standing/sitting for two hours, as long as you walk/move you’ll be ok.

https://www.bootdoc-hotronic.com/en_us/index.html

[Carlos cruz]

6 minutes ago, jaapv said:

https://www.bootdoc-hotronic.com/en_us/index.html

Whole crew has tested a lot of different approaches, yet every had some sort of downsides. Chemical warmers work for 30-40 mins and you have to place them inside your boot before going out into the cold, all electrics ones need batteries and you have to take of your gloves to adjust temp or swap batteries, I am not commenting about cables. My preferred method is just to move as much as you can. My guide believed in responsible use of his hip flask.(fully aware that % is basically inviting hypothermia, we had to wait out two hrs on a narrow ledge and good whisky really works wonders on your capillary vessels)

[jaapv]

These Hotronic batteries work for up to 8 hours (4 at the highest setting) How long are your sessions in such cold? The soles replace the insoles so those don’t have to be swapped out. The batteries clip to the top of the boot So no cables under your pants. Well tested in skiing, mountaineering and Arctic conditions. Have been around for decades. 
Relying on your capillaries draws the blood from your body core, cooling. it down and in extreme cases can induce shock.

[Carlos cruz]

Shooting day is usually 11hrs, and only two hrs (out of 90 days) were calling for special measures. When going to the mountains on my own I always try to minimise amount of stuff packed so I can move lightly and try not to add to amount of appliances that need charging every night. When in cold environments just don’t stop for too long.

Tbh in most situations it’s not the cold itself that’s the worst, I much prefer -30 to around 0 temperatures when humidity creeps in. 

Edited August 16 by Carlos cruz

[Intothewoods]

For those of you that do take your camera to cold climates do you have a rewarming protocol? From when you’re being the camera in from the very cold into a warm hut for example

[Carlos cruz]

13 minutes ago, Intothewoods said:

For those of you that do take your camera to cold climates do you have a rewarming protocol? From when you’re being the camera in from the very cold into a warm hut for example

Take off the lens, remove all half cases etc. If you had lenses in your back pack take them out, take off lens caps, filters  find them airy, warm spot or if you’re in hurry and have a hair dryer use it to speed it up, If you don’t have specialised wipes I wouldn’t try to wipe glass. After an hour it should stop fogging up. 

[hoolyproductions]

On 8/16/2025 at 12:32 PM, Stuart Richardson said:

If the temperature is below -30, my guess is that your endurance will be more the challenge than the camera's. SL cameras are good with gloves, but with that level of cold, you are probably going to want a combo of thick glove liners with insulating mittens over them. The same kind of principle for your feet...It will also depend on whether there is wind. But in general, unless you are gearing up for an expedition, I think your own clothing is going to be more of a factor than the camera in that weather. If you are going for aurora photography, that is also one of the worst things, as you are mostly just standing completely still and waiting. In that level of cold, my guess is that you are going to need multiple spare batteries that you keep warm and next to your body so that you can swap them out. Looking up Lapland, however, it seems like the average low is more like -16C, so something like -40 doesn't seem super likely...or necessarily worth spending a lot of time in even if it does occur! 

I live in Helsinki and regularly go to shoot in the winter in Lapland with my SL2-S (now SL3/s). As has been noted by you and others the SL cameras are more than up to it with nothing special required. I typically use my 24-90mm and somtimes take the 90-280mm. And I avoid changing lenses in a snow storm.

I've been in -30 a couple of times in the last 20 years but usually indeed it is quite a bit warmer. Most of my trips have been in about -10 to -15. Every time I get ready to go up and experience -30 the weather warms up just before I go 😁 A shame because the air and snow look different when very cold (and I find those kind of temperatures a fun challenge).

[Stuart Richardson]

3 hours ago, Intothewoods said:

For those of you that do take your camera to cold climates do you have a rewarming protocol? From when you’re being the camera in from the very cold into a warm hut for example

Honestly, I never do anything. But I think it occurs naturally usually, as I go from wherever I am shooting to the car, which will be cold and which warms up fairly slowly...the gear stays in the bag. Usually I have caps on, but not always. Then when I get home, I usually just bring the bags in and just leave them. No special precautions etc. The times I have noticed it more are if I am carrying a camera with me on a walk around the city in a cold day, and then go into a warm coffee shop or something. For work out in the natural environment I feel like there is usually some more transition built in. I should say that Iceland is quite dry in the winter as they are pretty generous with the heating and usually keep things ventilated, so indoor humidity tends to be very low. Not sure how it is in Finland. But TLDR, I don't do anything special and have not had a problem after many years taking no special precautions. 

Edited August 18 by Stuart Richardson

[saintkilpatrick]

Photographers have pushed past the cold temperature ratings for the SL series cameras and lenses without an issue.

While the repeated build up of condensation on internal electronic parts will certainly degrade those parts over time, I don't think it's something you should worry too much about. It's unavoidable to a degree. It helps to avoid sudden temperature fluctuations like going from freezing outdoor temperatures to very warm indoors or a vehicle with the heater set to the highest setting or vice versa.

I do have quite a bit of experience shooting in deserts and a great deal of care should be taken in that environment with any camera system. There is always particulate sand in the air. On several occasions I noticed that prime lens barrels did not turn quite as smoothly as they had before arriving in that environment. On one particular shoot, a Canon 24-70mm zoom that I had mounted to a DSLR made a lot of noise (when zooming) suggesting there was significant friction at play. That was a somewhat windy day and I think there must have been a lot of fine, granular sand in the air. Afterwards and over time, that zoom seemed to make less noise however it was never quite the same. I think zoom lenses with barrels that extend in and out are probably more worrisome than prime lenses as far as this goes. When the SL does make its way to a desert (hopefully soon) I'll do the following:

• If outdoors, with my back against the wind, change lenses inside of a plastic bag to help protect against sand particles. If possible, I will seek additional cover using my camera bag or whatever else is available.

• Always keep the sensor pointing down. 

• Use a scarf, bandana or plastic bag to wrap around the camera exposing only the parts of the camera I need access to for the shot. This obviously helps with rain too. Less cleanup later.

Enjoy your trips!

 

Edited August 18 by saintkilpatrick