R8 and R9 dead after long period being ide

[masjah]

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On 9/24/2025 at 1:35 AM, erl said:

My R8 of approx 25yrs has just spat the dummy on the spot meter function. Actually, it still works but suddenly gives a significantly low reading. Clearly the specific diode is 'dying'.

I have calculated a work around by dialing in a 200% ISO higher value. That, from a test roll, gives me workable exposures. My local techy says 'no joy' for a repair. I can persist with it 'as is' but nervously. I considered a second hand R9, but really don't want to drop that sort of money on a gamble, at least I don't think so.

I will persist with my current R8, but really am not comfortable with unreliability. I do have some great R lenses and would like to keep them in service. The R8/9 functionality is so good, I don't want to trade for something lesser.

Opinions/sympathies welcome.

Erl, there are a lot of reports of R8 meter cells dying of old age (so to speak). My understanding is that the cell unit is a compound affair, and the central spot meter cell is often the first to go: the others may well follow! Apparently the cells are integrated into the body itself, and cannot be swapped out, so I can only offer tea and sympathy at a distance. I would be tempted to buy an R9. I've not heard reports of cell failure on these (but this of course may be purely down to their being younger).  

[gbealnz]

Sympathies for sure Erl. I'm tickled with my R8 and the few R lenses I have. 

In as much as opinions, I reckon just acquire another, before the current R8 fails completely. There are a couple of R9's for sale locally, not cheap though. 

 

[pridbor]

Reading this thread made me go pick up my R9 from the closet to see how it fared after my very long neglect, only to find it looked dead!

I took out the two batteries and measured 1.9V and 2.4V, respectively.  

Does anyone know how sensitive the R9 is to the voltage level? Should it still be working at 4.3V??? 

I am going to buy and replace them, of course.  I usually use "Duracell" and "Energizer." 

 

Thanks

Preben

 

 

 

[erl]

I suggest  based on your evidence, that the batteries are 'dead' as far as the camera is concerned.

New batts should spring the cam to life. A magnificent camera (R9) needs to be used! 😉

[rick_dykstra]

19 hours ago, pridbor said:

Reading this thread made me go pick up my R9 from the closet to see how it fared after my very long neglect, only to find it looked dead!

I took out the two batteries and measured 1.9V and 2.4V, respectively.  

Does anyone know how sensitive the R9 is to the voltage level? Should it still be working at 4.3V??? 

I am going to buy and replace them, of course.  I usually use "Duracell" and "Energizer." 

 

Thanks

Preben

 

 

 

Hi Preben. Those batteries are cactus, as we say. Or as Monty Python would say, 'They've effing snuffed it!'.

Recently, I had an unresponsive R8/motor-winder which was loaded with two, 123 batteries. Their combined output was 6.01V, according to my multimeter. But they were old and no longer able to deliver the required current. Two new 123 lithium batteries have got the motor winder and camera working nicely. Off to the shops with you!

Regards, Rick. 

[erl]

Exactly the same here!

Two new batts and the winder is . . .  . winding. 🙂

[masjah]

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On 11/17/2025 at 3:14 AM, pridbor said:

Reading this thread made me go pick up my R9 from the closet to see how it fared after my very long neglect, only to find it looked dead!

I took out the two batteries and measured 1.9V and 2.4V, respectively.  

Does anyone know how sensitive the R9 is to the voltage level? Should it still be working at 4.3V??? 

I am going to buy and replace them, of course.  I usually use "Duracell" and "Energizer." 

 

Thanks

Preben

 

 

 

Preben, if you were able to measure the voltages in situ with the camera switched on ("on load", so to speak) I would bet that the measured voltage would drop like a stone, The internal resistance of a battery rises as it becomes discharged, and you have also to factor in the notional voltage drop across this internal resistance, which, simply by Ohm's law, is proportional to the current being actually drawn. (With a good quality meter these days, this current is substantially zero.) 

[pridbor]

I think we all would like more than the 24 hours there are in a day; I certainly need that to be able to pay proper attention to my cameras.

Between stone sculpting and restoring my Citroen Cx, I haven't had any time for Photography for a very long time.

But with winter coming, more time indoors, so now is a good time. 

I have to go through my other cameras to find out if they, too, are out of commission.

Using one roll of film through each camera, would that be good enough to determine if it works OK? Or what do you suggest?

I have ordered the batteries for the R9 and will report back later.

 Encouraging to hear your responses, I should hate to find the R9 unusable 😞

Thanks all

Preben

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[gbealnz]

3 hours ago, pridbor said:

I think we all would like more than the 24 hours there are in a day; I certainly need that to be able to pay proper attention to my cameras.

Between stone sculpting and restoring my Citroen Cx, I haven't had any time for Photography for a very long time.

But with winter coming, more time indoors, so now is a good time. 

I have to go through my other cameras to find out if they, too, are out of commission.

Using one roll of film through each camera, would that be good enough to determine if it works OK? Or what do you suggest?

I have ordered the batteries for the R9 and will report back later.

 Encouraging to hear your responses, I should hate to find the R9 unusable 😞

Thanks all

Preben

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Sounds like an excellent winter project Preben.

With respect to your question: " Using one roll of film through each camera, would that be good enough to determine if it works OK? Or what do you suggest? "

My suggestion is to carefully visually inspect them, one by one, each body, as well as each lens. With a lens it is usually fungus or mould that is an issue. Also the aperture movements can be hindered by oil or general gunk, but not all that often.

With the camera bodies, I look for the shutter action, does it work, and if so, does it "sound right" especially at the lower speeds. Given the picture, all will need a battery of some description for the shutter to operate (fully, some run a manual speed I think, but only a limited speed).  Also, does the meter operate, and does the reading "appear correct", compared to your "Sunny-16" guess, or another meter.

Then try a roll of film through each, and enjoy them for the fine instruments they are. You have a nice selection (in that photo).

[TomB_tx]

The main problem I've seen in R4-7 bodies is the mode switch not working after long storage. It can sometimes be resolved by exercising the switch through all the modes many times to clear off old lube or dirt buildup.  Otherwise get it to work in one mode and leave it there...

[earleygallery]

6 hours ago, pridbor said:

I think we all would like more than the 24 hours there are in a day; I certainly need that to be able to pay proper attention to my cameras.

Between stone sculpting and restoring my Citroen Cx, I haven't had any time for Photography for a very long time.

But with winter coming, more time indoors, so now is a good time. 

I have to go through my other cameras to find out if they, too, are out of commission.

Using one roll of film through each camera, would that be good enough to determine if it works OK? Or what do you suggest?

I have ordered the batteries for the R9 and will report back later.

 Encouraging to hear your responses, I should hate to find the R9 unusable 😞

Thanks all

Preben

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Take some photos of that CX and share them here! I'm sure lots of us would love to see it! 

I have a few R3 bodies now. My first was bought new back in the 80's and started playing up about some years ago - the shutter fails to open at 1/1000th and sometimes at 1/500th. Unfortunately it can't be repaired so I started looking for another body. I found many suffered from similar issues or faulty metering. Leica told me it was partly due to the circuit boards deteriorating in these cameras. 

I have my original one which I could still use if I avoid the two top speeds, it's got huge sentimental value, and two others that I found which still work correctly. Test yours to see if it's still OK!