B+W CPL for Elmarit-M 28mm & Summicron 35mm (and how to use them)

[Jan_t]

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I'm travelling to Bolivia next month where I'll be doing landscape photography (as an amateur). I'll bring my M10 with me, with the Elmarit-M 28mm ASPH and the Summicron 35mm ASPH lenses. (also a 50mm, but I expect to use that one less for landscape)

After some research I'm planning to buy the B+W HTC Master CPL filter, 39mm so it fits both the 28mm and 35mm. Is this a good choice?

Currently I'm using UV filters on my lenses (also B+W, 007 Clear MRC nano). When I want to use the CPL, do I stack it on top of the UV filter? Or do I remove the UV filter and replace it with the CPL filter? (second option seems to be cumbersome, since I'll be switching quite a bit I expect)

Any tips for using CPL's with rangefinders? I'm planning to use it on digital, so I can use live view to see the effect when rotating.

Thanks!

[UliWer]

11 minutes ago, Jan_t said:

39mm so it fits both the 28mm and 35mm. Is this a good choice?

When I used a polarizer on 28mm it had the effect that one part of the sky was very dark blue, the other very bright. The effect of a polarizer depends on the angle towards the sun. With a field of view of 28mm you don‘t get a definite angle but a wide  range, so the effect becomes weird. Even 35mm may be too wide.

I‘d certainly not recommend to attach a polarizer on top of a UV-filter: too much and too different glass in front of your lens doesn‘t make sense and can only have detrimental effects. A polarizer is not for any situation, so I‘d use it only when it is needed.

Edited July 1 by UliWer

[jgeenen]

Adding to @Uliwer : stacking of filters on the 28mm lens can lead to corner vignetting. With standard hood attached you will not be able to adjust the CPL to find the optimal position (for the desired effect). Last, you will not be able to control the effect of the CPL outside of Liveview or playback. All together makes it less convenient to work with polarizers. 

Edited July 1 by jgeenen

[AceVentura1986]

True normal on a 24x36mm sensor is 43mm, ie, it’s diagonal. Anything wider than 43mm will risk uneven darkening of the sky; it will darken the center portion but not the edges. The wider the lens, the more pronounced this effect will be. If you really want to use a CPL you might want to reconsider your 50mm again. 

Edited July 1 by AceVentura1986

[UliWer]

19 minutes ago, AceVentura1986 said:

Anything wider than 43mm will risk uneven darkening of the sky; it will darken the center portion but not the edges.

That's not my experience. There will be a difference in brightness relative to the angle the object has towards the sun.

Here a quick example with 28mm on M10.

1. Without polarizer:

 

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2. With polarizer:

Left edge with a flat edge toward the sun becomes dark due to max. efficiency of the filter, right edge with a steep one remains bright because the filter is less effective. 

[spydrxx]

I'd never recommend using a polarizer on a lens as wide as 28mm, as the effect will certainly be uneven darkening. Also, you don't want to stack filters, this creates too many surfaces for back and forth reflections. Enjoy your trip and take lots of shots, just not with a polarizer on a 28.

[AceVentura1986]

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On 7/1/2025 at 8:10 AM, UliWer said:

That's not my experience. There will be a difference in brightness relative to the angle the object has towards the sun.

Here a quick example with 28mm on M10.

1. Without polarizer:

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

2. With polarizer:

Left edge with a flat edge toward the sun becomes dark due to max. efficiency of the filter, right edge with a steep one remains bright because the filter is less effective. 

Your photo actually proves my point. 

[250swb]

The image circle of any lens is much bigger than the diagonal of the sensor or film and there shouldn't be a problem with vignetting on a 28mm lens unless stacked. But what people think is vignetting is just the natural distribution of polarised light. Using a polarising filter and standing with your back to the sun the sky will be evenly darkened across the frame, but stand at right angles to the sun (as per @UliWer photo) one side of the sky will be darker than the other, stand facing the sun and the polariser will have little if any effect. 

The easiest way to use a polarising filter on a digital rangefinder is to use Live View, or on a film camera make coloured paint marks or scratches around the rim and holding the filter to your eye rotate it until you get the effect you want, then take note of which mark is nearest the top, screw the filter onto the lens and align the mark in the same position.

Edited July 3 by 250swb

[mhasman]

Years ago, I used B+W CPL filter with Canon 6D DSLR and lovely Sigma Art lenses. It worked so easy and natural with optical viewfinder through the lens. Then I switched body to mirrorless R, and all magic gone.
Not sure if there is an easy way to use CPL on rangefinder other than just predict the result. 
My choice is the orange filter, but I am with M11 Monochrom. B+W Orange 39mm, it works great with Summicron 35mm ASPH. 

And... few times I forgot to unscrew transparent filter and screwed orange just on top of it... haha then was looking around, crying that I lost 007 Nano UV