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I recently bought a Leica R3 MOT with Summicron 50mm lens.

 

My first two rolls were developed and I'm sadly frustrated. Some pictures exploded:

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These two were taken in daytime with a 400 ISO roll.

 

Admittedly, I am a noob and I didn't pay attention to the exposure (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) feature of my camera until the second roll. However, I still think this is not the only problem here.

 

Can someone guide me to what were my potential mistakes here? 

 

Thanks!

Edited by LightSpeed
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  • LightSpeed changed the title to What did I do wrong? (Poor results with the Leica R3)

Shoot another TEST roll. Maybe a 12 exp for economy. Carefully note ALL settings you use. Have the film processed and scanned. Compare with the original.

This may determine if the issue is with the camera or the processing/scanning.

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vor 9 Stunden schrieb LightSpeed:

Admittedly, I am a noob and I didn't pay attention to the exposure (-2, -1, 0, +1, +2) feature of my camera until the second roll. However, I still think this is not the only problem here.

 

I suggest you to repeat using the camera and this time paying attention to

  1. ISO/ASA is set correctly according the film you use 
  2. EV correction is set tot zero
  3. write down exposure values you used for every photo to remember later when the film is developed
  4. think again why some photos are exposed correctly and others not, there is a reason for that

as erl already written, use a 12 photo roll and ask for contact copies to keep expenses low, or shoot diapositives.

Keep in mind that everyone using a new camera will mess up the first photos and need some time to get used to her

Chris

 

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Can you confirm that the shutter speed is roughly what it is supposed to be? That looks like a sticky shutter or something like that to me. If you choose 1s, does it open and close for a real 1s? Does the shutter look like it is closing very rapidly at higher speeds? You can use a camera that you know is fine to compare...hold the camera back open and take the lens off and put it in front of a light source. If the speeds are roughly correct, the interval should seem similar to another known-good camera. Otherwise I suspect something like the shutter dial moved off of "A" and onto 1s or something like that.

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I can’t really tell anything from those examples but looks like a processing issue more than anything!

However the R3 is prone to problems with shutter and metering (due to ageing electronics).

The camera meter can be set to centre weighted or ‘spot’ - use centre weighted for testing. Check the correct batteries are fitted. 

Do a quick check without film, firing the shutter on manual mode and see if it appears to be working correctly. Then check exposure against another camera or download a metering app on your phone. 
 

Put it into AE mode and check again - does the shutter speed change in you try it lens wide open and stopped right down?

Finally test with another roll of film.

 

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Thanks a lot, everyone. I will try all the suggestions.

 

One thing that I notice is that selector for light measurement seems to have no effect. This small line on the right is always static, going down like a hammer only when I click to take a picture:

 

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(In the manual, it's in 125; in my case, it's always either above 1,000 or below 4s, no matter what settings I use.

 

Maybe the sensor is defective? I may have written a lot of non-sense, so I apologize in advance.

 

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Is there sign of power in the camera otherwise? I am not as familiar with an R3, but a lot of older cameras will still fire without batteries, but the timing of the shutter will be set to one speed. The behavior of the meter sounds to me like the behavior of a needle meter without battery power. Have you confirmed that the batteries are new and good and properly in place? 

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1 hour ago, Stuart Richardson said:

Is there sign of power in the camera otherwise? I am not as familiar with an R3, but a lot of older cameras will still fire without batteries, but the timing of the shutter will be set to one speed. The behavior of the meter sounds to me like the behavior of a needle meter without battery power. Have you confirmed that the batteries are new and good and properly in place? 

 

Yes, that red light on the left turns on when I press the button. I changed the batteries as soon as I got the camera to make sure it was OK.

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Ok, the only reason I mentioned is that my Hexar AF has a bad habit of turning on even when it does not have enough battery power. I brought it to service at Nippon Camera Clinic because it would turn on and focus but would not take pictures or advance the film. The kind Japanese technician calmly went behind the counter and changed the battery and charged me the 5 bucks or whatever for the battery. I was a bit humiliated, haha. But I only say this because some cameras can appear to operate partially when the batteries are too low. But since you just put them in it sounds like that is unlikely to be the case here. 

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vor 3 Stunden schrieb LightSpeed:

 

Yes, that red light on the left turns on when I press the button. I changed the batteries as soon as I got the camera to make sure it was OK.

Could you tell us, which type of battery you use?

Is it also possible to tell us the lens you did use?

Edited by Helge
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Unfortunately it sounds like the meter is not working.

If the camera was sold to you as working you should return it for a refund.

If you can’t return it then it’s a case of checking if the shutter is working correctly and if so you can use it in manual mode with a handheld meter.

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Check the metering and exposure with the 'Sunny 16 rule'

This states that the correct exposure of a subject in direct sunlight is f16 at 1/(the ISO rating of the film).  So with, say, Ilford FP4+ (ISO 125), a sunny scene would be correctly exposed at f16, 1/125 s.  So meter off the clear blue sky or a grey card on a sunny day and check the meter is reading correctly.

Set the mode to Manual exposure and try each of the shutter speeds sounds ok.  Open the back and fire the shutter at each speed to check that both curtains are operating correctly.

The R3 also has two purely mechanical shutter speeds, B (bulb) and X (1/90s). If you set X, check that it sounds like a short speed.

Good luck.

Edited by Eclectic Man
Another idea.
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The fact that the light sensor needle drops when you press the shutter button indicates that you have the camera set to selective metering - see pages 17/18 of the instructions. That way one can check the setting without removing the camera from the eye during shooting because at the inteegrated setting the needle is un affected.

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Thank you so much for every comment here. I took all into account and shot another two rolls. I will post the results here in a couple of days - hopefully I'll be able to share some cool photos!

 

Wish you all the best.

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