charlesphoto99 Posted January 20 Share #21 Posted January 20 Advertisement (gone after registration) As long as there's no obvious red flags, I would go for the cheaper one. MPB is pretty meh in my few interactions with them. And that warranty? You know that if anything goes wrong it will be in 366 days or more. Murphy's Law. Also, with an M8, you may want a 21mm or such, as the crop factor is 1.5X. Better to gamble and spend the extra $ on lenses, as those don't lose value and can be carried on to other bodies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 20 Posted January 20 Hi charlesphoto99, Take a look here M8 for half the price but 50k shutter actuations. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Olaf_ZG Posted January 20 Share #22 Posted January 20 2 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said: As long as there's no obvious red flags, I would go for the cheaper one. MPB is pretty meh in my few interactions with them. And that warranty? You know that if anything goes wrong it will be in 366 days or more. Murphy's Law. Also, with an M8, you may want a 21mm or such, as the crop factor is 1.5X. Better to gamble and spend the extra $ on lenses, as those don't lose value and can be carried on to other bodies. Cropfactor is 1.3. Having just rebought the m8, I decided that wide open is more important than the name Leica. Therefore I bought the 28mm nokton, which is significant cheaper than the Leica. It might lose half of its value, but I still saved a big time vs the Leica. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted January 20 Share #23 Posted January 20 Just now, Olaf_ZG said: Cropfactor is 1.3. Having just rebought the m8, I decided that wide open is more important than the name Leica. Therefore I bought the 28mm nokton, which is significant cheaper than the Leica. It might lose half of its value, but I still saved a big time vs the Leica. Ah, yeah! It's been awhile....😄 I do know that occasionally I'll run across some M8 files in my archives and go, man, those look great! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeetona Posted January 20 Share #24 Posted January 20 18 minutes ago, charlesphoto99 said: Also, with an M8, you may want a 21mm or such, as the crop factor is 1.5X. Sorry I forgot. Still, I believe that this is a halfway house and I would like to encourage the OP to be bolder. M240s are currently the lowest modern digital Leicas. M9 has this weird "golden sensor" myth premium, and a M10 is much more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
farnz Posted January 20 Share #25 Posted January 20 There is a common misconception that a max. 1/8000th shutter exerts more stress on the shutter components than a max. 1/4000th shutter. This is not the case because the shutter curtains travel at the same speed (= the same stress) in 1/8000th and 1/4000th shutters. The difference is that the 'slit' (ie distance between) the front and rear curtains in a 1/8000th shutter is half that of a 1/4000th shutter so the rear curtain in a 1/8000th shutter starts slightly earlier than the rear curtain in a 1/4000th shutter (and at the same time as the rear curtain in a 1/8000th shutter that's set to 1/4000th shutter speed). The spring in both shutters is the same so there's is no more energy expended in cocking or firing either shutter: it's the same so don't worry about whether the M8 has a 1/8000th or a 1/4000th shutter unless you're planning to take pictures wide open with a Noctilux on bright days, when 1/8000th might come in handy. Pete. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 20 Share #26 Posted January 20 I am sure you are right, but at the time Leica claimed it was to decrease shutter stress. There had been a bit of an internet Hooah about a few shutters failing early - without any cause being mentioned of course. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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