Q3/Q3 43: Firmware update v.3.0.0 improves black out times and much more

[Philip G]

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A small plea to the author of the Firmware Release Notes:

The notes conclude with a reminder that date, time and language need to be reset after installing update - why don't they also add a brief reminder to those absent minded users like me that the update process also deletes all saved profiles. 

[LocalHero1953]

The update process asks you if you want to save your profiles before updating, and saves them when you accept. That looks to me like a reminder that the process deletes saved profiles.

[Sharpshooter]

3 minutes ago, Philip G said:

A small plea to the author of the Firmware Release Notes:

The notes conclude with a reminder that date, time and language need to be reset after installing update - why don't they also add a brief reminder to those absent minded users like me that the update process also deletes all saved profiles. 

Also the fact that the photo counter is reset, and the work around for it.

[LocalHero1953]

21 minutes ago, Philip G said:

A small plea to the author of the Firmware Release Notes:

 

A plea more effectively sent direct to Leica. Leica doesn't own the forum.

[Olaf_ZG]

55 minutes ago, LocalHero1953 said:

The update process asks you if you want to save your profiles before updating, and saves them when you accept. That looks to me like a reminder that the process deletes saved profiles.

Which is a very neat question cause I thought my profiles where - when saved - on my memory card already. So this question really made me happy as I could retrieve my profiles.

[keithlaban.co.uk]

1 hour ago, Sharpshooter said:

Also the fact that the photo counter is reset, and the work around for it.

I'd be grateful if anyone here could explain the work around.

TIA

[Sharpshooter]

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14 minutes ago, keithlaban.co.uk said:

I'd be grateful if anyone here could explain the work around.

TIA

Basically, before updating, take a photo and leave it in the root directory on the SD card. Update the firmware. Take another photo. The count should continue from the photo you already had on the card.

I don’t believe anything can be done once the counter has been reset. 

[keithlaban.co.uk]

16 minutes ago, Sharpshooter said:

Basically, before updating, take a photo and leave it in the root directory on the SD card. Update the firmware. Take another photo. The count should continue from the photo you already had on the card.

I don’t believe anything can be done once the counter has been reset. 

So I take it the order should be, upload new firmware to card first then follow your instructions as above?

Many thanks.

[Sharpshooter]

5 minutes ago, keithlaban.co.uk said:

So I take it the order should be, upload new firmware to card first then follow your instructions as above?

Many thanks.

I took the photo first and saved my profiles onto the card, then downloaded the firmware update via the FOTOS app. I then reset date and time and then took another photo.

PS. Those dolls really freak me out.

Edited December 15, 2024 by Sharpshooter

[keithlaban.co.uk]

Thanks again.

And yes, those dolls freaked me out too, which is kinda why I shot them.

😁

[bsmith]

My Q43 AF focuses lightning fast on AFS and AFC. It actually afc tracks close to results with my Nikon D5 on AFc. So well that I’m hesitant to upgrade to 3.0 because I’m worried the AFC tracking might change!

I use the adjustable square only. AFI is terrible on moving subjects and so is track, faces etc.  It literally seldom misses, I don’t understand why others are complaining. My advice, only use + or the adjustable square and adjust size accordingly to subject distance. 
🤷🏻‍♂️

[Smogg]

59 minutes ago, bsmith said:

My Q43 AF focuses lightning fast on AFS and AFC. It actually afc tracks close to results with my Nikon D5 on AFc. So well that I’m hesitant to upgrade to 3.0 because I’m worried the AFC tracking might change!

I use the adjustable square only. AFI is terrible on moving subjects and so is track, faces etc.  It literally seldom misses, I don’t understand why others are complaining. My advice, only use + or the adjustable square and adjust size accordingly to subject distance. 
🤷🏻‍♂️

Sit on a sofa or chair, cross your legs and start to slowly swing your upper leg. Now try to use tracking on your moving shoe. The result will be discouraging. That's all you need to know about how AF-C works in Q3 43.

[bsmith]

7 minutes ago, Smogg said:

Sit on a sofa or chair, cross your legs and start to slowly swing your upper leg. Now try to use tracking on your moving shoe. The result will be discouraging. That's all you need to know about how AF-C works in Q3 43.

I don’t know about that nonsense test but I know that I follow running basketball players from the 3 point line at full speed going to the basket ( and often in mid air and my Q43 keeps them in focus. 
Over and over 100 times a night,  week after week. Also shot multiple concerts in low light with the artist constantly moving around the stage. I’m close to them and I’m touching the stage so their distance from me is dramatically changing. I think the mistake most people make is using AFi , tracking or face focus settings. You can’t use it like a Nikon or Canon, but it’s more than good enough to achieve accurate focus for 95% of situations most people shoot. 

[Smogg]

11 minutes ago, bsmith said:

I don’t know about that nonsense test but I know that I follow running basketball players from the 3 point line at full speed going to the basket ( and often in mid air and my Q43 keeps them in focus. 
Over and over 100 times a night,  week after week. Also shot multiple concerts in low light with the artist constantly moving around the stage. I’m close to them and I’m touching the stage so their distance from me is dramatically changing. I think the mistake most people make is using AFi , tracking or face focus settings. You can’t use it like a Nikon or Canon, but it’s more than good enough to achieve accurate focus for 95% of situations most people shoot. 

I don't use AFi, because in this case the camera's decisions are completely unpredictable, and I don't like the lack of control. The camera tracks a full-length human figure well, but only with good contrast with the background, and when using the focusing and recomposition technique on ordinary objects and/or anything other than a human figure, everything is very, very bad. 
A typical situation on the street is when I focus on, for example, a tree or a lamp post, then change the composition, moving the tree/post away from the center, and the camera loses the post, moving the focus to neighboring objects or to the background.

[Smogg]

If you don't like the experiment with the swinging leg, then just put several objects on the table, not in a row, but chaotically. Move away 2-3 meters and focus on any object, then move the camera, thereby moving the object from the center. The camera will often jump from object to object, although they are not similar to each other in color or texture.

[Cogito]

9 hours ago, bsmith said:

My Q43 AF focuses lightning fast on AFS and AFC. It actually afc tracks close to results with my Nikon D5 on AFc. So well that I’m hesitant to upgrade to 3.0 because I’m worried the AFC tracking might change!

I use the adjustable square only. AFI is terrible on moving subjects and so is track, faces etc.  It literally seldom misses, I don’t understand why others are complaining. My advice, only use + or the adjustable square and adjust size accordingly to subject distance. 
🤷🏻‍♂️

I’ve never focused this way, so asking technique, how do you move the square around, touch on screen or directional pad buttons? And how do you choose which eye is in focus, make the square very small? thanks for the help.

[jjroroek]

9 hours ago, Smogg said:

I don't use AFi, because in this case the camera's decisions are completely unpredictable, and I don't like the lack of control. The camera tracks a full-length human figure well, but only with good contrast with the background, and when using the focusing and recomposition technique on ordinary objects and/or anything other than a human figure, everything is very, very bad. 
A typical situation on the street is when I focus on, for example, a tree or a lamp post, then change the composition, moving the tree/post away from the center, and the camera loses the post, moving the focus to neighboring objects or to the background.

smogg, i tried it and the tracking worrked quite well. even in low light. ( several objects on a table and moving the camera very fast) Only if there are more similar objects  ( same color, same contrast)  than its starts jumping . so i presume to use it in the dark in an  crowded  street it will be difficult if you try to focus on just one specific person, but i have to try that soon

[bsmith]

2 hours ago, Cogito said:

I’ve never focused this way, so asking technique, how do you move the square around, touch on screen or directional pad buttons? And how do you choose which eye is in focus, make the square very small? thanks for the help.

Direction pad. If you’re so close you need to choose left or right eye use + point or manual focus. My point is I’ve found that the Q43 auto focuses really, really well in the majority of situations. 
AFS almost 100%. AFC not to the 15 fps of a Nikon or Canon ( which btw miss a lot!! Sony misses a lot too ( with poor color included as a bonus:)) , But surprisingly fast and perfect for most every situation.  I think the mistake many people make is using the gimmicky settings like “ people, animals, tracking” etc and thinking they can mindlessly get everything they point the camera at instantly in focus. 
like with any tool or instrument, there’s “craft” involved to get the best results. 

[US Daily Digital]

I tried to update the firmware on my Q3 28 last night via the fotos app. It started okay, then the camera made a whining sound and then shut off. It is now dead. I called and emailed the repair center, but haven't heard back yet. This is the first time I've ever lost a device on a firmware update. 

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica Q

[Bent]

Who can tell me what I'm doing wrong here? Just installed new firmware on Q3 28 and Q3 43. In order to show the correct time, Q3 43 must be set to Daylight Savings Time: ON, while Q3 28 must be set to OFF. 

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