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In experimenting with the Q3 43's focus on eyes, I think the AFc or AFi (which can then choose AFc) was a bit fooled by sharp rimmed glasses in the initial photo above. In this shot the glasses rims don't have the sharp contrast of the first photo above. In the current photo below, the camera chose to focus on the eyes as intended. Are the eyes as sharp behind glasses as without glasses? No, perhaps because the correction of the glasses lens may distort the image slightly?

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f2.2 ISO 100 1/160 AFc eyes and face.  Shot from window light, early morning.

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On 10/10/2024 at 4:13 PM, LeicaS2 said:

In experimenting with the Q3 43's focus on eyes, I think the AFc or AFi (which can then choose AFc) was a bit fooled by sharp rimmed glasses in the initial photo above. In this shot the glasses rims don't have the sharp contrast of the first photo above. In the current photo below, the camera chose to focus on the eyes as intended. Are the eyes as sharp behind glasses as without glasses? No, perhaps because the correction of the glasses lens may distort the image slightly?

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Thanks for your great pictures. Is there a focus peaking assist to help focusing on the eyes?

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35 minutes ago, ynp said:

Thanks for your great pictures. Is there a focus peaking assist to help focusing on the eyes?

Alas, the 43mm cropped to 75 doesn’t enlarge the squares placed over the eyes in the viewfinder. Yes it is using the 75mm field for focus and light metering, but the number of pixels on the eye is fewer. Less contrast than a glasses frame. Here is the one plus of using a 90mm APO on an SL where the eye squares can work over 90mm 60 mp eyes with more pixels to provide contrast for the AF to focus on. In a studio, I guess I would still use the 90mm onto a full frame, versus the Q3 43 cropping in. 
I have noticed that manually setting the f at 2.8 on the Q3 43 insures focus when shooting glasses. The focus fall off is still very pleasant.

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9 hours ago, LeicaS2 said:

f2.2 ISO 100 1/160 AFc eyes and face.  Shot from window light, early morning.

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It seems like it is sometimes hit or miss. The focus plane is behind her eyes as the hair indicate that by its sharpness and the eyes off-focus.

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Noel

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On 10/5/2024 at 4:46 AM, haelio said:

> Note that if you are shooting on Auto, as I understand it, the exposure and focus is all measured for the 75mm space not the full 43mm. 

This is correct. It also restricts where in the frame the camera looks for faces and eyes when in auto focus which is helpful.

Does this only happen if you are using JPEGS’s?I understand the images are not cropped in camera unless JPEGS being used, but what about frame lines, exposure etc you have noted here?

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1 hour ago, KGN said:

Does this only happen if you are using JPEGS’s?I understand the images are not cropped in camera unless JPEGS being used, but what about frame lines, exposure etc you have noted here?

If it is like the Q2, this applies to raw images as well: AF and exposure metering are within the frame lines. The raw image file is uncropped, although in Lightroom it initially displays cropped.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Wow, looks good!

Does anyone of you have a Q2/Q3 28 and a Q3 43? Would be great to see a 75mm crop comparison of both 28 and 43. If done with a tripod framing and everything should be quivalent.
Sure resolution is different. But interesting would be depth of field.

I assume Q3 43 with F/2.0 to have around equivalent F/3.5 DOF at 75mm, while Q2/Q3 38 at F/1.7 would be around equivalent F/4.5 DOF at 75mm. Sounds like a minor difference, but would be interesting to see it in direct comparison with the same person in same framing.

Hope anyone could post a comparison 🙂

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A portrait within the first week of having the Q. I added the reds in post, but not the greens. Except a crop, and some tonal adjustments that’s has been it. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/21/2024 at 10:50 PM, Olaf_ZG said:

A portrait within the first week of having the Q. I added the reds in post, but not the greens. Except a crop, and some tonal adjustments that’s has been it. 

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This image wasn’t a real portrait. It is a hologram, and the Q got it greatly.

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To me, the original Q was too wide, and the 43 is really much more to my taste. Especially for people. I won’t use it for studio portraits as i am happy enough to own a lux. But for street portraits the 43 might be really nice.

My neighbor. He cut off his finger while cutting a sausage…

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Another neighbor. She frequently poses for me…

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And an unknown woman walking in the village (which is rather rare)

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As I have said before, setting the zoom to 75mm makes sure you are back far enough for a portrait, but the extra space beyond 75mm allows you to adjust framing in post.

but if you hand the camera to someone else to use for a picture, remember to switch the zoom off back to 43mm, because they will frame the picture as they see it without accounting for the frame lines. Then when they hit play, they see a zoomed 75mm frame and it confuses them.

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14 minutes ago, LeicaS2 said:

As I have said before, setting the zoom to 75mm makes sure you are back far enough for a portrait, but the extra space beyond 75mm allows you to adjust framing in post.

but if you hand the camera to someone else to use for a picture, remember to switch the zoom off back to 43mm, because they will frame the picture as they see it without accounting for the frame lines. Then when they hit play, they see a zoomed 75mm frame and it confuses them.

 

That’s a good idea. I naturally stand back far enough so don’t really need frame lines for that, but tell me does it make focusing better or does Q343 still hunt around when there is more than one person in frame?

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To address your issue Cogito, here is a dual photo that was taken by someone who just picked up the camera and took the shot with no instruction. I do not know if the focus squares were bouncing around from one head to the other, but it apparently chose to focus on the head nearest the camera. The shot was at f4 so there would be no way for both heads to be in focus. When handing a camera to someone, I would suggest switching from auto f  stop to fixed f8 to make the Q more point and shoot. That goes for myself in such a situation. The ISO the camera chose was 100. If I had set it on f8 vs the f4 it auto chose, I would have had an ISO of.400, which would have been fine. The shot was taken at 1/160. I should have set it at 1/500 to avoid camera shake from a person unfamiliar with the camera. Then the ISO would have been say 1,000. Still fine.

 

 

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