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If you wear photochromic transition glasses, what do you manage your autoexposure


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I don’t wear glasses, I manage my auto exposure camera by pointing the camera to someth8ng that gives my my desired exposure that lock the AE and recompose.

This does not work for my son who wears photochromic transition glasses, because what on the screen does not reflect what is recorded by the camera.

if you also wear glasses that has transition brightness, what do you do?

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I set my diopter to no glasses and  remove them. After over 35 years of struggling with contacts, phorochromic glasses and transitionals, I  pretty much gave up on them  when it came to photography. I did put diopter lenses on a few cameras which came close to my prescription. I have the problem seeing my tachometer and speedometer also when wearing photochromic glasses as well, but really need them for driving in bright daylight. They certainly also screw up when using polarizing filters.

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10 hours ago, Sandokan said:

No problems with exposure - it is AE and I look at the curves or for flashing highlights. 

Coloured glasses always leads to dissapointment when viewed on the computer as the memory was of much better colours. 

Could you elaborate more?

Take an example, in a scene I want the rich cloud and sky (not too bright) with the building not too dark . I would point the camera to something that shows the optimal exposure I want, then lock AE and recompose. The exposure histogram would looks OK if I expose it directly to the wanted composition, which is different from the locked AE. Either would look reasonable.

This is essentially the same as if I scan through the exposure compensation/correction with the screen as the confirmation.

I cannot judge it by just looking at the exposure histogram, and it might not be the middle point between the sky and the building. Theoretical I can do some mental calculation, but that is not desirable.

Edited by Einst_Stein
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12 hours ago, Einst_Stein said:

Could you elaborate more?

Take an example, in a scene I want the rich cloud and sky (not too bright) with the building not too dark . I would point the camera to something that shows the optimal exposure I want, then lock AE and recompose. The exposure histogram would looks OK if I expose it directly to the wanted composition, which is different from the locked AE. Either would look reasonable.

This is essentially the same as if I scan through the exposure compensation/correction with the screen as the confirmation.

I cannot judge it by just looking at the exposure histogram, and it might not be the middle point between the sky and the building. Theoretical I can do some mental calculation, but that is not desirable.

Are you shooting JPEG or DNG? For JPEG, you should adjust exposure for balanced brightness. For DNG, you care only about not blowing relevant highlights (clipping or histogram) and, at base ISO, about saturating the sensor enough to reduce noise.

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