pippy Posted August 9, 2024 Share #61 Posted August 9, 2024 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) 5 minutes ago, Viv said: Well, you did ask ... 😸 Actually I didn't pose any such question (it was a statement) but it's good to know how you feel. Have fun with your QM and I trust you capture a great many nice photographs with it! Philip. Edited August 9, 2024 by pippy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 9, 2024 Posted August 9, 2024 Hi pippy, Take a look here Which monochrom. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted August 9, 2024 Share #62 Posted August 9, 2024 Spot-on Jeff. Basic geometry really. If the camera does not move and the objects don’t move, the relative position of the elements in the image cannot change.( Unless there is an earthquake 😂) The only thing the lens focal length does is to change the angle of view and thus the magnification on the sensor. Nothing else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pippy Posted August 9, 2024 Share #63 Posted August 9, 2024 (edited) 8 hours ago, jaapv said: ...Basic geometry really... Yet some folks obviously don't understand the 'Perspective' concept so we are constantly reading 'Zoom With Your Feet' comments posted by 'photographers' who, clearly, haven't a clue and don't seem to want to learn. Anyhow; Life's Too Short to try to deal with idiots. Bye! Philip. Edited August 9, 2024 by pippy 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mute-on Posted August 9, 2024 Share #64 Posted August 9, 2024 8 hours ago, jaapv said: Spot-on Jeff. Basic geometry really. If the camera does not move and the objects don’t move, the relative position of the elements in the image cannot change.( Unless there is an earthquake 😂) The only thing the lens focal length does is to change the angle of view and thus the magnification on the sensor. Nothing else. I know this is OT, but @Jeff S earlier comment and @jaapv restatement, above, are the most succinct explanations of the perspective concept, and its relationship with angle of view, that I recall reading (doubtless there have been many others that I’ve bypassed or forgotten). Thank you. They should both be in the FAQ under “which focal length” and “do I need a Leica Q”, or some such … 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted August 12, 2024 Share #65 Posted August 12, 2024 A deep discussion here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadDadDaddyo Posted September 29, 2024 Share #66 Posted September 29, 2024 Aber, was ist "filmic"??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted October 22, 2024 Share #67 Posted October 22, 2024 Advertisement (gone after registration) Maybe out of topic. I'm lucky having two choices of Leica Monochrom. The first one is so nice that I don't plan to sell it. The second (and last not wanting one of the latest M) M246 is the one I use most. Large battery life and LV when needed and I don't see any negative bits in results comparing to the first Monochrom. Learn to use the B&W mindset is something more important than the Monochrom type. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted December 4, 2024 Share #68 Posted December 4, 2024 Happened across this thread again this morning. Since I posted in it way back on Page 1 in June, two friends of mine have acquired the Q2M. Both are delighted with it ... both wanted the auto focus, both like the 28mm lens, etc etc. I've seen some of their learning photos and they are excellent. I remain absolutely delighted with the M10 Monochrom. Depending on lens and subject, fitting a yellow-green or green filter obviates 90% of rendering needs. Went a smooth look? Keep the ISO setting down around 400. Want a rougher look? Pop the ISO setting up to 25000-50000. Its dynamic range, tonal scale quality, and acutance are outstanding. I personally have no interest in the M9M ... never really loved the M9 at all, in any form. Too many compromises in performance and responsiveness for me. The M typ 246 I wanted when it was new and no one seemed to have them when I went to buy it ... I waited a long time and gave up, went with other things. I bought the M10M right at the tail end of new ones being available, after the M11 had been announced, because I believed that its bespoke B&W sensor (yes, it's the same sensor used in the M10-R but it was adapted to the M10-R with Bayer array, not the other way around as all the other Monochroms have been) had advantages. I haven't used an M11M yet, and that's because I feel no need to at all; the M10M does the number for me. If I had to dump all my cameras and just keep one, the M10M would remain. I hope to be shooting with it until I can no longer hold it up to my eye. G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick1st Posted December 5, 2024 Share #69 Posted December 5, 2024 On 12/4/2024 at 9:10 AM, ramarren said: If I had to dump all my cameras and just keep one, the M10M would remain. I hope to be shooting with it until I can no longer hold it up to my eye. G I feel the same way. I am never selling my M10M. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted December 11, 2024 Share #70 Posted December 11, 2024 (edited) What I've found here in this topic is each Leica M, Monochrom can take nice pictures. Since the first one, then M246, M10M, M11M of course each iteration is "better featured", but the first one M9M well used by "the-one-who-knows-how"(bypassing all flaws) and it's unique CCD (even if I don't see superiority of the CCD/CMOS) can shine more than other... So each Monochrom can create ( with the user !) great images. Edited December 11, 2024 by a.noctilux 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliforniTexican Posted March 5 Share #71 Posted March 5 (edited) On 6/8/2024 at 11:05 AM, Eoin said: I’m going to throw a spanner in the works for you 🙃 . . . With the exception of the original M10, I’ve bough all my Leica equipment 2nd hand and at very considerable discount to the original sticker price. . . . Can I ask you, given your experience, what is the best way to buy a high quality used Leica for a good price? Thanks! Edited March 5 by CaliforniTexican To shorten it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted March 5 Share #72 Posted March 5 Buy from an authorised dealer. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benqui Posted March 5 Share #73 Posted March 5 I also was thinking to buy a M10 Monochrome because the sensor of my M9M was „rusty“. But after the exchange of the sensor I still love the look of the M9 mono despite its pitfalls. And after the investment for the new sensor I will keep my M9M „until the end“😉 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 5 Share #74 Posted March 5 I can echo that. My Monochrom M9 will stay with me. The newer ones are certainly more sophisticated, smoother, more resolution etc, but none can match the images. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevejack Posted March 6 Share #75 Posted March 6 I've been close to picking up an M9M a few times but never pulled the trigger, I like the output it gives straight out of camera versus the newer monochrom cameras. CCD / CMOS differences aside, every new generation of cameras will record more information and should by definition produce flatter images than the previous generation when you're looking at a raw output. This if course requires more input from the photographer during processing just to get the images back to looking like they were taken on a camera with less dynamic range 😅 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted March 6 Share #76 Posted March 6 15 hours ago, Stevejack said: CCD / CMOS differences aside, every new generation of cameras will record more information and should by definition produce flatter images than the previous generation when you're looking at a raw output. This if course requires more input from the photographer during processing just to get the images back to looking like they were taken on a camera with less dynamic range 😅 One can simply change the default import tone curve to achieve a different starting point, if that’s a concern. Or apply a quick preset. Black and white final output has always required fine tuning PP adjustments, darkroom or digital. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted March 10 Share #77 Posted March 10 I have found that with the M10-M, fitting a medium green filter (about 1.5 stop density) nets the spectral scale that works for me such that most of my photos can be converted from raw at LR defaults as done. I often add a little work anyway, but usually less than 10 seconds tweak over what comes out of the camera... G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted March 12 Share #78 Posted March 12 On 3/10/2025 at 6:21 PM, ramarren said: I have found that with the M10-M, fitting a medium green filter (about 1.5 stop density) nets the spectral scale that works for me such that most of my photos can be converted from raw at LR defaults as done. I often add a little work anyway, but usually less than 10 seconds tweak over what comes out of the camera... G Can you elaborate a little about the differences you see in using a med. green filter versus a yellow filter? Conventional wisdom is to always use a yellow filter #8 or #15, but I am intrigued by your comment about using a green filter for general photography. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted March 12 Share #79 Posted March 12 I am not sure about "conventional wisdom" ... I usually contrive tests with reference targets and look at the outputs with different filters when trying to evaluate what to use with a given B&W film (and, in this case, a monochrome camera sensor). I did fairly extensive testing using an Xrite Color Checker and the M10 Monochrom: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! As you can see from the graphs and the grayscale swatches, a yellow filter pulls values away from the filter-less baseline a bit harder than the medium green filter does. I find, in practice, that the medium green filter creates more differentiable middle tones and, to me, a capture that is more to my liking, straight out of the camera. When I'm looking for a more contrasty result, an orange filter is a bit more pronounced in its effects than the yellow and is what I tend to turn to, where a red filter is too extreme for me most of the time. G 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! As you can see from the graphs and the grayscale swatches, a yellow filter pulls values away from the filter-less baseline a bit harder than the medium green filter does. I find, in practice, that the medium green filter creates more differentiable middle tones and, to me, a capture that is more to my liking, straight out of the camera. When I'm looking for a more contrasty result, an orange filter is a bit more pronounced in its effects than the yellow and is what I tend to turn to, where a red filter is too extreme for me most of the time. G ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/395743-which-monochrom/?do=findComment&comment=5771109'>More sharing options...
jja Posted March 13 Share #80 Posted March 13 Thanks, Godfrey. By "conventional wisdom," I simply mean that yellow is the most common filter recommended for B&W photography. I have a green filter lying around, and I will try it and compare to my standard yellow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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