Focusing organic subjects on the 262

[FlickM]

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A very merry May Day to you all. 

If it's not too much of an imposition, could I ask if anyone has advice about focusing non linear subjects? (I've searched the forums). Linear is relatively struggle free, but I found it really difficult in the bluebell woods the other day, surrounded by nothing but organic objects as far as the eye could see, especially in portrait mode! I have attached some - literally - test shots taken round the garden  at various apertures this morning. These were taken on the Summicron 50mm v3, which I find a lot easier to focus than the Elmar 90 f4 that I was using the other day (which is really hard to focus - is that the focal length, the age, lower contrast, or something a bit out of line with the lens possibly?) and I think I managed to get reasonable focus. But after a while my eyes start boggling and I can't see what I'm doing. The contact lenses have helped a lot, especially the astigmatism correction, but I'm left wondering if it's a matter of keeping practising, or if I need a +1 diopter just for the camera (that last is me musing aloud, not a question). 

Meanwhile I managed to get a pristine Summicron 50 v3 complete with original hood for a very reasonable price, and I absolutely love it in combination with my 262.

 

 

 

 

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Edited May 1, 2024 by FlickM

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[Graham (G4FUJ)]

I find turning the camera between portrait and landscape to check focus has helped.  For focusing it doesn't matter whether the camera is at any angle e.g. 30 degrees off from portrait (or landscape) just so long as one can get a better position to set focus, 

[spydrxx]

I used to have a similar issue in low light low contrast situations. Things improved when I found a small diopter improved my vision - things sharpened up notably.

[FlickM]

25 minutes ago, Graham (G4FUJ) said:

I find turning the camera between portrait and landscape to check focus has helped.  For focusing it doesn't matter whether the camera is at any angle e.g. 30 degrees off from portrait (or landscape) just so long as one can get a better position to set focus, 

Thank you Graham. That's a really good idea to turn to check then turn back. Brilliant!

[FlickM]

9 minutes ago, spydrxx said:

I used to have a similar issue in low light low contrast situations. Things improved when I found a small diopter improved my vision - things sharpened up notably.

I think I'm going to have to try that. The optometrist suggested +1 off the shelf specs for really close work - I didn't want to compromise my distance vision. I can see fine now to read or use my phone, but, for example, editing photos on my phone is easier with that +1. I did buy a used +1 diopter from a well known Leica store in London, but it was blurry to see through: at first I thought it was my eyes, but then I looked under magnification and the whole surface of the glass was pitted - must have been heavy handed cleaning. I need to get to London and try one out I think, because doing it through the post is dodgy

[evikne]

I use a number of different techniques in situations like these. Turning the camera to portrait mode, as mentioned, is one of them. A group of flowers, like here, can be tricky if you're trying to focus on one object among the others. But it's easier if you first find the edge of the group. Once you have aligned the focus patch here, it is easier to find the one flower in the middle that you really wanted to focus on, if very precise focus is required.

If you don't have a clear outer edge, you can probably find something near the desired point of interest that stands out clearly from the rest and focus on this first.

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[FlickM]

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28 minutes ago, evikne said:

I use a number of different techniques in situations like these. Turning the camera to portrait mode, as mentioned, is one of them. A group of flowers, like here, can be tricky if you're trying to focus on one object among the others. But it's easier if you first find the edge of the group. Once you have aligned the focus patch here, it is easier to find the one flower in the middle that you really wanted to focus on, if very precise focus is required.

If you don't have a clear outer edge, you can probably find something near the desired point of interest that stands out clearly from the rest and focus on this first.

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Thank you. All really helpful advice. I must say, the rangefinder is more precise than the old split disc on Nikon film SLRs back in the day.

[Herman Zhang]

I often find covering up the finder up, try to focus and then uncovering it to compare quite helpful. Also, try focusing on a subject around the same distance which has a less messy background.

[FlickM]

12 minutes ago, Herman Zhang said:

I often find covering up the finder up, try to focus and then uncovering it to compare quite helpful. Also, try focusing on a subject around the same distance which has a less messy background.

 I've just tried your suggestion and, curiously it does seem to help. However, hilariously, I couldn't manage to cover the patch with any ease. Do you know how many times I've accidentally covered it??!! My situation the other day was a mass of plants with no subject that wasn't part of the composition. 

[dpitt]

I try to find a vertical line, if that is not present, then a horizontal line works well too (turn in portrait to focus)
The main issue is repeated patterns, you might make a big mistake thinking everything is in focus, when it is not at all because you matched 2 different lines in the finder.

For small parts or subjects (eyes, buttons...) trying to map the image inside  the focus patch works great too.

If all else fails, you can always try to find an easier subject at the same distance. This is also great with moving subjects. Focus on a static object (street furniture, stones...) that is at the distance were your subject will be. Then just wait ( or walk towards the subject for the right distance) and snap...

For the diopter correction, remember that the focus patch is at a distance of 2m.
So your reading glasses will work fine for reading at 30cm distance but they are too strong. If you try to focus the M with you reading glasses, you are straining your eyes to focus at 2m. which is over the maximum distance they will work for you. So no wonder your eyes get tired.

Try +0.5  if you need +1 for reading, that would probably be perfect. Or ask the optician for the exact correction needed for perfect sight at 2m...
 

Edited May 1, 2024 by dpitt

[FlickM]

33 minutes ago, dpitt said:

I try to find a vertical line, if that is not present, then a horizontal line works well too (turn in portrait to focus)
The main issue is repeated patterns, you might make a big mistake thinking everything is in focus, when it is not at all because you matched 2 different lines in the finder.

For small parts or subjects (eyes, buttons...) trying to map the image inside  the focus patch works great too.

If all else fails, you can always try to find an easier subject at the same distance. This is also great with moving subjects. Focus on a static object (street furniture, stones...) that is at the distance were your subject will be. Then just wait ( or walk towards the subject for the right distance) and snap...

For the diopter correction, remember that the focus patch is at a distance of 2m.
So your reading glasses will work fine for reading at 30cm distance but they are too strong. If you try to focus the M with you reading glasses, you are straining your eyes to focus at 2m. which is over the maximum distance they will work for you. So no wonder your eyes get tired.

Try +0.5  if you need +1 for reading, that would probably be perfect. Or ask the optician for the exact correction needed for perfect sight at 2m...
 

 I think you may have misunderstood what I was trying to say. I apologise for not being clear. I’m not using reading glasses for the rangefinder, I’m using contacts. They are optimised from the far distance, through mid range to computer, which is about .7 of a meter away. I have +3 added to the contacts prescription for reading and close work.  The +1 diopter glasses are for extremely small print. I can see perfectly for everything but tiny print and very small details when editing photos on my phone(and only sometimes for that). I think I possibly dont need a diopter on the camera at all, but just to get used to using the rangefinder. A distance of 2 meters is well within my range of clear vision, and in fact he specifically tailored the contacts with the camera in mind. Unlike reading glasses, my contacts don’t enlarge everything, vision looks natural. Most of the correction I have is for astigmatism, the +3 is only for reading and close work. At 2 meters, the rangefinder falls outside of the correction range for reading.

thank you for the rest of the info. Yes, I understand about the horizontal and vertical lines, though in a field of bluebells, that would have been a bit of a challenge. 

thank you for the useful suggestion of mapping subjects within the patch. I’m getting there bit by bit, and all these suggestions really help. 

Edited May 1, 2024 by FlickM

[FlickM]

Thanks everyone for all the helpful answers. 

[Maarten]

Your/Any optometrist most likely has a box with correction lenses including +0,5 and +1,0.
Ask if you can use these lenses to look through your rangefinder. My optometrist actually liked the exercise and was very helpful.
Even in the shop you will find out easily which one will fit you best. That’s the one you can order.

I have complicated spectacles and use +0,5. Other spectacle wearers are surprised how well they can see through my camera finder.

[spydrxx]

Nothing really beats trying out several diopters...the right one just "pops" the clarity.

[jaapv]

It is worthwhile to look through our FAQ thread. There is a full explanation of the various focusing techniques.