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I think you do because I did some quite effective UV photography on the M9 years ago. I hope I can find my UV pass filter and try it on a modern sensor using my Summarit 1.5/50 which is a good UV lens. The cover glass is an IR filter. 

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16 minutes ago, jaapv said:

I think you do because I did some quite effective UV photography on the M9 years ago. I hope I can find my UV pass filter and try it on a modern sensor using my Summarit 1.5/50 which is a good UV lens. The cover glass is an IR filter. 

I just looked it up. CMOS is less sensitive than CCD. 

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11 hours ago, jaapv said:

I just looked it up. CMOS is less sensitive than CCD. 

I know the Fujis are OK for UV because they’re used for Astro photography. They’re regarded as more sensitive to UV for nebula etc. Most modern cameras aren’t as good and require a conversion to full spectrum for deep sky objects. Then you add a narrow band UV filter to enhance the nebulae in the night sky.

UV filters don’t cut anything more than the sensor does itself on modern CMOS sensors, AFAIK. Another reason CCD’s are used for Astro cameras.

Gordon

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I have UV filters on my 24-90SL and 90-280SL lenses, not for UV protection, but because

  1. the front elements are very close to the front of the lens without a hood.
  2. the lens hoods are bulky so I store the lenses in my bags with reversed hoods.
  3. the crap lens caps for these lenses fall off at the drop of a hat, either in the bag or when fitting the reversed hood.

So I use the filters to keep my fingers away from the front element, and to stop accidental abrasion of the front element in the bag.

I don't doubt that I get some degradation, probably mainly flare, but it's one of the lesser photographic problems I have to deal with (human error is at the top of the list).

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5 hours ago, LocalHero1953 said:

I have UV filters on my 24-90SL and 90-280SL lenses, not for UV protection, but because

  1. the front elements are very close to the front of the lens without a hood.
  2. the lens hoods are bulky so I store the lenses in my bags with reversed hoods.
  3. the crap lens caps for these lenses fall off at the drop of a hat, either in the bag or when fitting the reversed hood.

So I use the filters to keep my fingers away from the front element, and to stop accidental abrasion of the front element in the bag.

I don't doubt that I get some degradation, probably mainly flare, but it's one of the lesser photographic problems I have to deal with (human error is at the top of the list).

+1

Jeff

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If this has inspired anyone, I purchased a UV filter made by a company called Breakthrough. Hard to get real excited about a filter but this is one of the most beautiful filters. It even has it’s own serial number. 1/4 the cost of Leica one and was highly recommended over the B&W equivalant

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  • 3 months later...
On 4/15/2024 at 8:12 PM, Dr. G said:

So do the APO SL lenses have any kind of UV filtration in their design or is the APO designation and effectiveness only related to the visible light spectrum?  

The APO specification is that the wavelengths focus on the same plane of the visible spectrum. R G and B. Leica specifies for four; what happens in between thee measuring points and outside the visible spectroscopy undefined. From the IR results of Leica lenses in general it can be deduced that Leica APO lenses have little chromatic aberration in general throughout the spectrum but it is by no means defined. 

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31 minutes ago, SudaliuS said:

Hello everyone!

I am afraid to use any metal filter because I’m afraid to scratch a front carving of my new Summilux in black colour. It’s anodized aluminium and I don’t want to make it silver)

Is it stupid from my side?

Well, yes. Anodising won’t come off from threading a filter on. If you put it on and off 100 times, perhaps some might wear of the bottom of the threads, but not the flat mating surface.

My black anodised 28 Elmarit-M ASPH II shows zero wear, but I only take a filter off very carefully to clean it a few times a year.

Edited by Mute-on
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I do love the discussions on line about filters. They always seem to generate such passion. That they will have an impact on images is simple fact but how often that’s to a noticeable level is completely unquantifiable. 
 

I’ve never liked the fiddly little so and so’s myself, much happier with a hood for protection and even the IR cut one for the M8 only lasted a couple of weeks. If putting a protective filter on your lens let’s you worry less and engage in your photography more, then that filter is giving far more than it’s costing in possible flare or ghosting and is probably your best accessory. 
 

 

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I've got B&W (plus a couple of Leica branded) filters on all my lenses, for my peace of mind with regard to accidental damage or hostile environments.

..... With one exception. I don't normally use a filter on my PC Super Angulon 28/2.8 R shift lens. With such a lens,  with a lot of shift, there are some extremely oblique light ray paths. A plane sheet of glass will create a lateral displacement of an oblique light ray, which I think does degrade the image a bit in these extreme circumstances. I will though compromise in exremely hostile environments. I've actually got two of the correct lens hoods for this lens. One of them has the special unmounted glass filter disk which B&W produced for this lens (not to be confused with the mounted 67EW alternative which has its own vestigial hood, and is a not nearly so good alternative) and the other hood has no filter.

 

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