SL2-S: Beginner Macro Focus Stacking Questions

[augustwest100]

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Hello all! To expand my knowledge and experience, I attempted a few test shots of a macro subject using focus stacking and the Sigma 105 on my SL2S on a glide rail head on the tripod. I had one issue on the capturing side and one issue on the editing side. Was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction for a solution to each issue:

Capture: I had the lens set to manual focus mode, and was trying to line up the closest point of the image to use as the starting point for my stack of images. I was using the fotos app to snap the shutter. But what I wanted to do was zoom in on the area where I would start my stack of images to confirm focus at that point, and then zoom out to begin the sequence of images. When I would touch the screen to see that area of the image, the lens would blur out and refocus on something, like I activated an autofocus override or something like that, when all I really wanted to do was identify an area to zoom in without changing focus unless I turn the focus ring. Any idea what I am doing wrong? Maybe a few settings need to be adjusted more for macro photography? I am mostly a rangefinder street shooter, so I am way out of my element with macro. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Editing: The second issue I had was when executing the focus stack in lightroom/photoshop. I used the "basic" method: select the stack of images, choose "edit as layers in photoshop," auto align layers, auto blend layers, flatten image. What I don't fully understand is how to handle a case where a strange artifact appears in the image, like a tiny portion that is blurry or sticks out as unnatural. How can you get rid of that? I'm guessing it involves somehow finding the layer that has the artifact and either deleting that layer or masking that portion of the layer that is causing the issue. I'm basically self-taught on photoshop so I'm not really sure how to do this. Any good explanations out there?

Attaching my first attempt here. Not the most artistic photo, but it shows the artifact at the back left portion of the flower. That is the part I would want to have edited out. I already flattened this image, so I know I will not be able to go back to the layers, but just wanted to know for future efforts how to handle this issue. Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

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[drjonb]

Spoiler alert, I am no expert.  I use a sturdy table top tripod, and I do not use any mechanical means to move the camera to different focal points.  Instead, I use manual exposure and aperture, and auto spot focus and move the focus cursor back and forwards or left and right (to different parts of the object) with the joystick, and I employ a remote trigger.  Of course, the incremental differences in focus position are limited by the finest movement possible using the joystick, but it can work, and can be done without moving the camera.  For small objects like insects, my method may be tricky, but for bigger objects, it works ok.  There are some very sophisticated automatic racked systems out there but they are very pricey.

To stack the images, I now use software called Helicon Focus - for me it works better than photoshop and is more intuitive and easier to use.  Crude example below, I think this one was actually using PS.

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Edited September 5, 2023 by drjonb

[Dave in Wales]

Your subject is not the best for stacking, red is notoriously difficult to photograph. 

Try an indoor subject where lighting can be controlled.

[jaapv]

https://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/focus-stack-images-photoshop/

[Paul2660]

A couple of thoughts. 
 

First I would consider a true focus stacking software such as Helicon Focus. 
 

2nd. Any subject movement or movement in the background will cause aliasing artifact. Focus stacking is hard to control outdoors if there is any wind. Helicon can control some of the artifacts but not all of them. 
 

I wish Leica would add this as a feature to the SL2 and S. No reason not to have it as it’s possible with the S1R and for that matter any other modern digital camera as a focus feature setting.   Just like having the self timer work for all exposure modes not a separate exposure mode that only works for a single frame. 
 

Paul

[traveler11]

As has been mentioned, any movement of the camera or the subject is a killer, because it is a Leica.  I use Zerene Stacker and the Leica Image Shuttle with the S2P and the 007.  My most recent image "Martha Washington Geranium" is a 12 deep stack using the primitive method of turning the focus ring and a cable release (my first time trying it).  The wind was a bastard and one stack was deleted.

My cheapest recommendation for you would be to perfect your focus stacking abilities by turning the focus ring and using a cable release.  There are some inexpensive rails where you move the camera/lens.  Maybe it will work.  Maybe it will have artifacts (dependent on the depth of the total stack).

Your stacking software will have a 'retouching' feature that will allow you to capture artifacts and fix them.  PS My method precludes my needing retouching.

When I began focus stacking I read all of Michael Erlewine.  Today he would be dated, but his basics are worthy.

[augustwest100]

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On 9/6/2023 at 8:02 AM, Paul2660 said:

A couple of thoughts. 
 

First I would consider a true focus stacking software such as Helicon Focus. 
 

2nd. Any subject movement or movement in the background will cause aliasing artifact. Focus stacking is hard to control outdoors if there is any wind. Helicon can control some of the artifacts but not all of them. 
 

I wish Leica would add this as a feature to the SL2 and S. No reason not to have it as it’s possible with the S1R and for that matter any other modern digital camera as a focus feature setting.   Just like having the self timer work for all exposure modes not a separate exposure mode that only works for a single frame. 
 

Paul

It was pretty windy that day, so I think that was the main issue. My real question was how to get rid of that frame where the issue occurred. I guess I could flip through the layers one at a time and see which ones stood out. That is probably where the Helicon Focus software would work better. I always "buy first and ask questions later" so this time I wanted to reverse that process, lol. 

As a practical matter, it seems so obvious that an in-camera solution can be implemented to make this easier. I don't shoot video, but I remember one of the earlier firmware updates allowed some kind of rack focus from one object to another. So clearly, there should be a way to establish a focus stack with a starting and ending point indicated.

I still do not understand what was going on when I touched the screen and the focus would change. I wanted to be able to zoom in without refocusing...

[augustwest100]

On 9/6/2023 at 9:08 PM, traveler11 said:

As has been mentioned, any movement of the camera or the subject is a killer, because it is a Leica.  I use Zerene Stacker and the Leica Image Shuttle with the S2P and the 007.  My most recent image "Martha Washington Geranium" is a 12 deep stack using the primitive method of turning the focus ring and a cable release (my first time trying it).  The wind was a bastard and one stack was deleted.

My cheapest recommendation for you would be to perfect your focus stacking abilities by turning the focus ring and using a cable release.  There are some inexpensive rails where you move the camera/lens.  Maybe it will work.  Maybe it will have artifacts (dependent on the depth of the total stack).

Your stacking software will have a 'retouching' feature that will allow you to capture artifacts and fix them.  PS My method precludes my needing retouching.

When I began focus stacking I read all of Michael Erlewine.  Today he would be dated, but his basics are worthy.

I picked up a relatively cheap rack on Amazon (velbon?) to help make the process "analog" because I was having trouble manually focusing the Sigma 105 Macro by wire in very small increments. That lens is so amazing but I think it may be better to have an actual manual focus lens for this sort of thing. Was considering the R mount APO macro for that reason but would be open to any alternatives people have used.

[augustwest100]

On 9/6/2023 at 2:38 AM, jaapv said:

https://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/focus-stack-images-photoshop/

This was a nice overview thanks. Seems to me that after auto aligning the images, I can probably flip a particular layer on and off to see if it is way out of focus, and then try auto blend without that offending layer. Will have to experiment with that. Also seems that as I suspected one of the weak links is the fact that this lens is autofocus. Even in manual focus mode, focusing by wire is pretty tough. The lens is so good other than that!

[jaapv]

Yes, it is so much easier if the camera has Postfocus or in-camera focus stacking. 

[jaapv]

57 minutes ago, augustwest100 said:

I picked up a relatively cheap rack on Amazon (velbon?) to help make the process "analog" because I was having trouble manually focusing the Sigma 105 Macro by wire in very small increments. That lens is so amazing but I think it may be better to have an actual manual focus lens for this sort of thing. Was considering the R mount APO macro for that reason but would be open to any alternatives people have used.

The Apo Macro Elmarit R is one of the best macro lenses ever built. There is a 1:1 converter too. Nothing wrong with the Macro 60 R on bellows either 

[augustwest100]

On 9/6/2023 at 1:40 AM, Dave in Wales said:

Your subject is not the best for stacking, red is notoriously difficult to photograph. 

Try an indoor subject where lighting can be controlled.

Definitely should have tried this indoors, or on a less windy day. I like to torture myself, lol!

[drjonb]

On 9/8/2023 at 4:06 PM, augustwest100 said:

It was pretty windy that day, so I think that was the main issue. My real question was how to get rid of that frame where the issue occurred. I guess I could flip through the layers one at a time and see which ones stood out. That is probably where the Helicon Focus software would work better. I always "buy first and ask questions later" so this time I wanted to reverse that process, lol. 

As a practical matter, it seems so obvious that an in-camera solution can be implemented to make this easier. I don't shoot video, but I remember one of the earlier firmware updates allowed some kind of rack focus from one object to another. So clearly, there should be a way to establish a focus stack with a starting and ending point indicated.

I still do not understand what was going on when I touched the screen and the focus would change. I wanted to be able to zoom in without refocusing...

I am not sure whether you read my reply to your original post.  I use the Sigma 105mm and the Leica 24-90mm for macro work.  If you intend to do focus stacking, and you have an indoor static subject, I try to avoid moving the camera to move between focus layers or planes.  Instead, as I said in my post, I move the screen cursor combined with auto spot focus.  

[augustwest100]

On 9/11/2023 at 8:27 AM, drjonb said:

I am not sure whether you read my reply to your original post.  I use the Sigma 105mm and the Leica 24-90mm for macro work.  If you intend to do focus stacking, and you have an indoor static subject, I try to avoid moving the camera to move between focus layers or planes.  Instead, as I said in my post, I move the screen cursor combined with auto spot focus.  

Thanks.  My original intent was to learn how to use an inexpensive rail to stack focus. I was considering a manual focus lens instead of the Sigma (I don’t like the focus by wire though I love the IQ). But I can expand my experiment to include the touch screen joystick method as well, that may help me get better use out of the Sigma without having to focus by wire. Thanks again.