erl Posted October 24, 2021 Share #41  Posted October 24, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) I just found a cat among the pigeons! For what it is worth, just to confuse the argument the tech details are: Camera Leica R8, lens R60/2.8. Film: Ilford FP5+ exposed @ 3200 iso. Developed in, yes you guessed it! RODINAL. I don't give a damn about 'sharpness' and 'acuteness' or whatever they are. I just make pictures. Sometimes I like them for what they are. Not how I processed them. 😇 Jar of rubber bands Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 6 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4298714'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 24, 2021 Posted October 24, 2021 Hi erl, Take a look here Tips on using rodinal. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Aryel Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share #42  Posted October 24, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, erl said: I just found a cat among the pigeons! For what it is worth, just to confuse the argument the tech details are: Camera Leica R8, lens R60/2.8. Film: Ilford FP5+ exposed @ 3200 iso. Developed in, yes you guessed it! RODINAL. I don't give a damn about 'sharpness' and 'acuteness' or whatever they are. I just make pictures. Sometimes I like them for what they are. Not how I processed them. 😇 Jar of rubber bands Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Really beautiful, thanks a lot for sharing. I love how the grains become more visible in the out of focus area and how the jar was rendered. I just want more control on the final look so understanding the terms is important to me as it can help guide my eye. It can also tell me in which direction to modify (dilute, shake etc) to get a look I like  In the end, the only thing that matters will be the print. Not the process, camera, lens or chemicals. Just the image. However, to get there, I need to make everything work together with the photo content and ´disappear’. Edited October 24, 2021 by Aryel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share #43  Posted October 24, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! summitar 50 3 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! summitar 50 ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4298925'>More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share #44  Posted October 24, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! summitar 50 as well but printed on warmtone paper. I really like how the hairs were captured on this one and was quite surprised how well the Summitar handled the strong back light (nothing to do with rodinal). 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! summitar 50 as well but printed on warmtone paper. I really like how the hairs were captured on this one and was quite surprised how well the Summitar handled the strong back light (nothing to do with rodinal). ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4298934'>More sharing options...
chrism Posted October 24, 2021 Share #45  Posted October 24, 2021 I recently tried a film new to me - Adox CHS 100 II. With a new film I tend to be conservative in developer choices (HC-110 or Rodinal) and then later get into the odball things, like Diafine or homemade monobaths. Having seen how beautiful Adox CHS 25 was in Rodinal I decided to use it on the ISO 100 film, 1+25 for 5.5 mins with continuous rotation. I don't think anyone can say this has massive grain: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Or maybe you'd just need a huge pair of these to make such a claim! 😉 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Or maybe you'd just need a huge pair of these to make such a claim! 😉 ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4298955'>More sharing options...
Pyrogallol Posted October 24, 2021 Share #46 Â Posted October 24, 2021 I still have a box of 8x10 Adox CHS100, the first version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kl@usW. Posted October 24, 2021 Share #47  Posted October 24, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) vor 18 Stunden schrieb erl: I just found a cat among the pigeons! For what it is worth, just to confuse the argument the tech details are: Camera Leica R8, lens R60/2.8. Film: Ilford FP5+ exposed @ 3200 iso. Developed in, yes you guessed it! RODINAL. I don't give a damn about 'sharpness' and 'acuteness' or whatever they are. I just make pictures. Sometimes I like them for what they are. Not how I processed them. 😇 Jar of rubber bands Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! HP 5 ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
erl Posted October 24, 2021 Share #48  Posted October 24, 2021 1 hour ago, Kl@usW. said: HP 5 ? Yes. Not Fp5+. My typo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Albertson Posted October 24, 2021 Share #49 Â Posted October 24, 2021 Rodinal is as grainy as the film you develop in it. I like the results with medium-speed films (Delta 100, FP4+) with long-scale subjects. I used to develop HP5+ in Rodinal, but switched to Xtol when I decided I didn't like that much grain, and also had to expose it at EI 250 to get all the shadow detail I wanted. It's certainly economical - I'm currently working through a bottle of the stuff I first opened in 2012. Be sure to get a 25 ml graduate, or a like-sized syringe, to get the dilutions right. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share #50  Posted October 25, 2021 4 hours ago, Chuck Albertson said: Be sure to get a 25 ml graduate, or a like-sized syringe, to get the dilutions right. Using a syringe for now. Thanks a lot 😊 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
erl Posted October 25, 2021 Share #51  Posted October 25, 2021 I think the overriding observation I can make on Rodinal is that it is a TOOL. The motif is what makes your image, the developer allows you various ways to modify it, after the fact. Rodinal can flex the way your image will look, by varying temperature, dilution agitation, etc. In the digital world, it would be called Post Processing. In the Analog world, we just call it Processing. Simple really. Further modification can be established by using other developers, the same way. Kodak's Xtol is my other favourite, possibly my most used. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share #52  Posted October 25, 2021 9 hours ago, erl said: I think the overriding observation I can make on Rodinal is that it is a TOOL. The motif is what makes your image, the developer allows you various ways to modify it, after the fact. Rodinal can flex the way your image will look, by varying temperature, dilution agitation, etc. In the digital world, it would be called Post Processing. In the Analog world, we just call it Processing. Simple really.  Thanks a lot for writing this. The analogy makes lot of sense. It is simple, but I never really considered it in this way. So far, I always chose the developer based on the film stock until I ran out of id11 and used dd-x for everything. Leaving the door open and choosing based on roll content makes lot of sense. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share #53  Posted October 28, 2021 Printed a few more from the same trix rolls (1:50) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Summitar 50 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Summitar 50 ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4301380'>More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share #54  Posted October 28, 2021 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Summicron 50 v1 I definitely like this one a lot and will try to reproduce in the future. 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Summicron 50 v1 I definitely like this one a lot and will try to reproduce in the future. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4301382'>More sharing options...
Aryel Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share #55  Posted October 29, 2021 Continuing to explore, this time with Fp4+ (1+25). The scan looks really nice both the 35mm and 6x6. Will try to print over the weekend. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! minolta cle, summaron-m 28, rodinal 1+25 2 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! minolta cle, summaron-m 28, rodinal 1+25 ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4302105'>More sharing options...
Aryel Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share #56  Posted November 5, 2021 Same Moto, different view and cropped for printing on 8x10 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Minolta cle, 28summaron-m , fp4+ in rodinal 1:25 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Minolta cle, 28summaron-m , fp4+ in rodinal 1:25 ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/325221-tips-on-using-rodinal/?do=findComment&comment=4307376'>More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted November 5, 2021 Share #57  Posted November 5, 2021 Since this topic is all about the God known as Rodinal (which I worship incidentally, but only recently), what difference might one expect between 1+25 and 1+50, assuming the other variables, eg agitation, are kept constant? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 5, 2021 Share #58  Posted November 5, 2021 5 hours ago, Steve Ricoh said: Since this topic is all about the God known as Rodinal (which I worship incidentally, but only recently), what difference might one expect between 1+25 and 1+50, assuming the other variables, eg agitation, are kept constant? With slower speed films that tend to have more contrast diluting Rodinal will allow it to act more like a compensating developer, so it holds back highlight development. I think you may need to go to 1+100 to get the full effect and stand development,  but you should see a benefit at 1+50 with normal agitation. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Ricoh Posted November 5, 2021 Share #59  Posted November 5, 2021 11 minutes ago, 250swb said: With slower speed films that tend to have more contrast diluting Rodinal will allow it to act more like a compensating developer, so it holds back highlight development. I think you may need to go to 1+100 to get the full effect and stand development,  but you should see a benefit at 1+50 with normal agitation. Next roll I’ll try 1+50, thank you. I was a bit disappointed with 1+100, stand developing in Rodinal. Clear evidence of bromide drag, I think it’s called, manifest by uneven development from the sprocket holes down to the centre line. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted November 5, 2021 Share #60 Â Posted November 5, 2021 I'd expect Rodinal 1+50 to take longer, have less grain, and produce less contrast than Rodinal 1+25. My reasoning is that I know how benign it makes the negatives for scanning when used 1+100. I also know what 1+25 looks like as I have to use that ratio to get the minimum 5ml Rodinal per film with some developing tanks. So I assume that 1+50 is somewhere in between. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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