stump4545 Posted September 27, 2020 Share #1 Posted September 27, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) I know 2 different tools but anyone know is the high iso of the Leica S3 comparable in real life to the M10? Is one better then the other for high iso, or are they comparable say at iso 1600? On side note, does one really have to shoot a 007 or S3 at 1/250 handheld to prevent mirror vibration? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 Hi stump4545, Take a look here Leica S3 High Iso vs M10. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
John McMaster Posted September 27, 2020 Share #2 Posted September 27, 2020 I would not call 1600 a high ISO these days..... I try to use at least 1/500th for the 120mm and 1/750th for the 180mm, more for camera movement rather than mirror vibration. Shorter lenses can be hand-held at slower speeds. john Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaemono Posted September 27, 2020 Share #3 Posted September 27, 2020 vor 2 Stunden schrieb stump4545: ... On side note, does one really have to shoot a 007 or S3 at 1/250 handheld to prevent mirror vibration? See second to last S3 ISO 6400 at 1/125 sec. handheld here: https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-cMqxXt/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SrMi Posted September 27, 2020 Share #4 Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, stump4545 said: <snip> On side note, does one really have to shoot a 007 or S3 at 1/250 handheld to prevent mirror vibration? In my experience, the need for higher shutter speed is caused by camera body shake, not mirror slap. With S 45 mm, I feel comfortable shooting handheld with 1/90 or 1/125. The slowest shutter speed required to counteract camera body shake depends on the photographer. Edited September 27, 2020 by SrMi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Richardson Posted September 28, 2020 Share #5 Posted September 28, 2020 Movement in the camera body is usually a bigger factor than mirror slap, but mirror slap does come into play at slow speeds, particularly with light tripods. I have seen in artwork reproduction that keeping the shutter speed above 1/60th is important, even on a tripod or studio stand. Strong, wooden tripods help with this, but the problem is that the mirror creates a vibration in the body, and you need to either have the shutter speed fast enough to tune it out, or slow enough that it is proportionally tuned out. I would say the main danger zone is 1/30th to 1s. As for the M10 vs. S3, I will try to do a comparison. My gut feeling is that the S3 will win by a large margin, at least if you downsample it to 24mp. The S3 does not have a lot of noise at 1600, and when you downsample to 24mp, it will have even less. If you are talking low light handheld work, however, the SL2 is the best choice of all, as it has better ISO performance than either and it also has in body stabilization. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SrMi Posted September 28, 2020 Share #6 Posted September 28, 2020 It is nice that S3's timer mode raises the mirror two seconds before the shot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Richardson Posted September 28, 2020 Share #7 Posted September 28, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) I just did a quick test. At 1600 there is not really a big difference, as neither camera shows much noise. I shot the comparison at ISO 6400 as well. I just pointed the camera near a window where the light outside and inside makes it a high contrast scene. The S3 has more grain at 100% and more artifacts (like hot pixels). White balance is on the same place, though it renders more accurately in the M10. Both pictures are with standard sharpening, luminance noise reduction at 0, and color noise reduction at 10. I downsized the S3 to 24mp for the comparison, and it has slightly finer grain than the M10, though the M10 seems to retain the color better. The pictures show different magnification, as I used a 50mm lens in the M10 and the 70mm for the S3, which is a bit longer than 50mm equivalent. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/313696-leica-s3-high-iso-vs-m10/?do=findComment&comment=4053708'>More sharing options...
SrMi Posted September 28, 2020 Share #8 Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) Here is another comparison at ISO 6400, f/5.6, 1/45sec, using LrC 9.4; sharpening, noise reduction, and color set to 0; lens corrections applied; white balanced applied using the same gray square. I was comparing S3 with S 45mm and M10-R with M-35mm. I resized the images to the same dimensions. I think S3 results are slightly better. Note: both images are heavy crops; width 2800px and 2140px non-resized, both images resized to 2000px. S3 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M10-R Edited September 28, 2020 by SrMi 1 Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M10-R ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/313696-leica-s3-high-iso-vs-m10/?do=findComment&comment=4053853'>More sharing options...
Stuart Richardson Posted September 28, 2020 Share #9 Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) What profile are you using for the S3? The reds and blues look a little odd on my screen (calibrated Eizo). It could be the jpeg or something the forum is doing, or even my browser etc. Edited September 28, 2020 by Stuart Richardson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SrMi Posted September 28, 2020 Share #10 Posted September 28, 2020 18 minutes ago, Stuart Richardson said: What profile are you using for the S3? The reds and blues look a little odd on my screen (calibrated Eizo). It could be the jpeg or something the forum is doing, or even my browser etc. I use ColorChecker computed profile for S3 and Adobe Color for M10-R. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now