6 bit coding on the cheap

[Marac]

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I just managed to 6-bit code my Voigtlander lenses using a 'Sharpie'.

I made a paper template (will upgrade this device soon).

It was fun to do and it worked.

Using a back cap from the lens I cut out a circle and put it square on the back of a coded lens and made the marks where the code lines are then, slipped it over my Voigtlanders and following the chart, I managed to do the 21/1.8 as a 21 lux, the 35/1.2 as a 35 lux and my 75/1.5 as a 75 lux. The 10mm will have to remain bare.

 

Has anyone else done this, maybe another way, easier?

 

 

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[OR120]

Not yet, but I've got a couple of non-coded lenses ---------- I would like to try this

could you post a couple of photos so I can see this?

 

Edited September 25, 2020 by OR120
sp

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[250swb]

The current Voigtlander M mount lenses have a shallow rebate machined into the flange specifically so you can code them, but black paint is usually much better than a Sharpie. If you have a Voigtlander LTM lens buy a codable M adapter.

Edited September 25, 2020 by 250swb

[Marac]

You know when you read something and think .... 'I'll try that' that's what I did.

You are correct there is a slight flange on the Voigtlanders, that's good. I had a look at the replacement mounts but it starts to get complicated after that with alignment so I'll stick with the sharpie for now, it works.

 

Caveman style hahahaha

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Edited September 25, 2020 by Marac

[tgray]

Sharpie didn’t work with my camera (M10 monochrom). Got a Posca paint marker and it worked great. 

[rramesh]

This is a procedure you can use for lenses with a recessed area, like the newer Voigtlanders.

• The template is attached. Print actual size and cut out to use.
• Paint only black areas. White areas are not needed.
• Sharpies are not good. Use Matt Black Paint. The kind used by model makers (Airfix, Humbrol, Revell, Tamiya etc.)
• Just a light dab enough to fill within the recessed area.

Template.pdf

Edited September 26, 2020 by rramesh

[Marac]

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Hey sharpie worked for me, and it was only a bit of fun after being locked up for almost a year.

I wouldn't want the chance of any paint going inside my camera, paint cracks, if you want it done properly then I suggest using the proper mounts.

[250swb]

5 hours ago, Marac said:

Hey sharpie worked for me, and it was only a bit of fun after being locked up for almost a year.

I wouldn't want the chance of any paint going inside my camera, paint cracks, if you want it done properly then I suggest using the proper mounts.

Modern high quality paint only cracks if the substrate moves, such as wood expanding or contracting, and given the lens flange isn't made of the same material as a garden shed even Leica themselves decided paint is better than a Sharpie. It isn't that a permanent marker can't work, but going back many years in discussions on coding people would blithely say 'oh I just used a Sharpie', and around the world people would listen and knew what was meant. The difficulty is that not all permanent markers are created equal, and some worked and some didn't, some people were lucky, but some had to try many brands, some even used a Sharpie and it still didn't work, and few markers stayed on the lens flange longer than a day or two if you were changing lenses. Hence the advice to use the type of  high quality hobby paint as listed by rramesh in the post above when marking a flange with the rebate or adapters with coding pits machined into them.

[AndreasG]

vor 2 Stunden schrieb 250swb:

Hence the advice to use the type of  high quality hobby paint as listed by rramesh in the post above

I made good experience with Tamiya XF-1, flat black. It adheres well and dries fast, but the metallic surface should be free of grease etc.

[adan]

I like the "external marking targets" approach - I ran across it somewhere else in the past year as well. Good idea.

For the record, I had a couple of Voigtlander lenses with the nice protected valley or rebate, and the Sharpie™ markings I added there lasted at least 18 months (still functioning when I swapped for newer versions).

But it is a fair question - since the cameras' detection system is infrared-based - whether any particular pen or pigment will be appropriately opaque to infrared light. The real Sharpie™ is, although I usually overwrite a second layer once the first has dried.

Edited September 26, 2020 by adan

[tedd]

I got the cheapie replacement flanges from eBay. I had a little trouble with focus on my 90 to begin with, but took it off and re-seated with a bit more care and now it works perfectly. Double coat of real Sharpie™ here too!

[Marac]

Long live the 'real' Sharpie crew

Enjoy life.

[Marac]

17 hours ago, 250swb said:

Modern high quality paint only cracks if the substrate moves, such as wood expanding or contracting, and given the lens flange isn't made of the same material as a garden shed even Leica themselves decided paint is better than a Sharpie. 

Thanks for clearing this up for me.

[tgray]

As I said, a Posca paint marker works great. It’s really water based paint, dries a flat black quickly, and costs $3-4.  Easy to scratch off with a toothpick if your marks are a little off.

[FlashGordonPhotography]

I still have my Mach Technical Coder kit that comes with a nicely cut coder tool. Invaluable if you can find one for sale. Sadly not made anymore.

Gordon

[jdlaing]

Me too. Great device.

[Marac]

Apparently sharpie coding lenses becomes unreliable after the M9 series cameras so maybe this could explain some people having non-runners.

I coded mine for fun, not being particularly accurate but having good results with every lens I 'coded'.

I was very surprised to see some people really having no luck using the sharpie and decided to do a little research, well, for some reason or another, after the M9 the self-coding options become very unreliable, and in almost all cases resulted in failure, this would explain the Gentleman with the M10M who had no luck. 

Just picked up a gorgeous Leica M 90mm E46 M-Elmarit but I will not be using a sharpie on this lens as there is no recess. I will look into changing the mount and decide if it is worthwhile.

[FlashGordonPhotography]

I always coded using model enamel. That has worked on all my cameras including my M10's (M&R). 

Gordon

[Al404]

I have recent Voigtlander but can't really see if mine has valley for paint, mount seems all equal

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Hallo,

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[vanGeist]

Am 25.9.2020 um 21:39 schrieb Marac:

You know when you read something and think .... 'I'll try that' that's what I did.

You are correct there is a slight flange on the Voigtlanders, that's good. I had a look at the replacement mounts but it starts to get complicated after that with alignment so I'll stick with the sharpie for now, it works.

 

Caveman style hahahaha

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

You don't need to separate the dots, blocks also work fine.