NigelG Posted June 21, 2020 Share #21 Posted June 21, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) The table relates to Zeiss lenses on the M9 (2012) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 21, 2020 Posted June 21, 2020 Hi NigelG, Take a look here Coded and uncoded M lenses. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Dennis Posted June 21, 2020 Share #22 Posted June 21, 2020 2 hours ago, Mikep996 said: The way you have it set up will work properly - set in auto the camera will remember that the last uncoded lens was the 35 so when it sees no code it will shift to the 35. When it sees the (coded) 50, it will automatically switch to that. Awesome. Understood, thank you so much. But let's say I buy a new CV 21 3.5 Asph. I choose the best fit (in manual detection) according to my taste. Can I still work in Auto lens detection? Or does Auto work well only between one 6-bit coded lens and one that is not (like my case 35 no coded + 35 Cron coded)? Because I would love to have the best performance possible happening in the camera, and possibly the right Exif. My PP is very basic, I don't usually apply lens vignette/lens correction/CA or any other adjustment that is not primary such as curves, exposure, shadows, blacks, highlights, etc. And I would like to keep it this way. I highly believe in having an excellent DNG file and applying some "light" exposure adjustments: it's my HONEST ethic policy. I want the magic to happen in the camera, decisive moment + right camera settings, + proper exposure. So, here goes my essential question. Said all above, because of my ideal workflow, if I buy in the future a 21mm and a 24mm (no Leica Lenses), what is the best practice do you guys suggest to have the best result on camera, and possibly, to save time in settings when switching lens? Speed is also a key. P.s. That's why for what I understood so far in my minimal Leica experience, having only coded Leica lenses and set to Auto, it would be my ideal setting for my needs. Am I right? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlaing Posted June 21, 2020 Share #23 Posted June 21, 2020 Auto lens detection only works, and provides exif info and corrections with a 6 bit coded lens. Manual lens choice from the menu would give corrections and exif for that exact lens. Using a third party lens would take some experimenting to get the look you want. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 21, 2020 Share #24 Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Dennis said: Awesome. Understood, thank you so much. But let's say I buy a new CV 21 3.5 Asph. I choose the best fit (in manual detection) according to my taste. Can I still work in Auto lens detection? Or does Auto work well only between one 6-bit coded lens and one that is not (like my case 35 no coded + 35 Cron coded)? Because I would love to have the best performance possible happening in the camera, and possibly the right Exif. My PP is very basic, I don't usually apply lens vignette/lens correction/CA or any other adjustment that is not primary such as curves, exposure, shadows, blacks, highlights, etc. And I would like to keep it this way. I highly believe in having an excellent DNG file and applying some "light" exposure adjustments: it's my HONEST ethic policy. I want the magic to happen in the camera, decisive moment + right camera settings, + proper exposure. So, here goes my essential question. Said all above, because of my ideal workflow, if I buy in the future a 21mm and a 24mm (no Leica Lenses), what is the best practice do you guys suggest to have the best result on camera, and possibly, to save time in settings when switching lens? Speed is also a key. P.s. That's why for what I understood so far in my minimal Leica experience, having only coded Leica lenses and set to Auto, it would be my ideal setting for my needs. Am I right? With the newer M mount CV lenses they have a shallow rebate machined into the lens flange so you can use black paint to mark the code (the white segments are irrelevant). Same with the newer, as of many years ago, Zeiss M lenses. With the CV LTM lenses you need an M adapter anyway, so you buy one that already has coding points machined into it. Either way you need to ask which codes work best for the lens or just experiment, the camera will not burst into flames. Edited June 21, 2020 by 250swb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted June 21, 2020 Share #25 Posted June 21, 2020 24 minutes ago, 250swb said: With the newer M mount CV lenses they have a shallow rebate machined into the lens flange so you can use black paint to mark the code You are saying that if I mark the code with the proper lens, or at least my preferred lens choice, I can set the lens detection to Auto and forgive about the problem? A second question, please. When you are saying Newer M mount CV lenses, are you referring to any of these options? https://www.voigtlaender.de/lenses/vm/?lang=en 🤔 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 22, 2020 Share #26 Posted June 22, 2020 9 hours ago, Dennis said: You are saying that if I mark the code with the proper lens, or at least my preferred lens choice, I can set the lens detection to Auto and forgive about the problem? A second question, please. When you are saying Newer M mount CV lenses, are you referring to any of these options? https://www.voigtlaender.de/lenses/vm/?lang=en 🤔 Yes, you need a lens coding template (check other threads for this) then if you code the lens with paint (don't use a Sharpie) you can set the camera to 'Auto Lens Detection' and it will recognise the code. For coding to work it rely's on two things, the code on the lens and the frame lines the lens brings up on the body. I don't know if the CV web site can comprehensively say if every single current CV M lens has the necessary rebate in the mount, on some exotic lenses there may be a screw in the way, but if you Google the lens you'll often find a better picture of the lens flange and you are looking for a faint concentric ring machined into the flange about 2mm wide (it can still be hard to spot in web photos). The header photo on this web page shows the rear of a CV lens with the machined rebate and two coding marks applied https://lavidaleica.com/content/leica-lens-codes 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good To Be Retired Posted June 22, 2020 Share #27 Posted June 22, 2020 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) On 6/21/2020 at 7:55 AM, Mikep996 said: I purchased a lens flange on Ebay (China) for $15.50. It arrived in a week. That may be a NEW WORLD RECORD. I live pretty close to you and the ones I've ordered have taken something like 1 - 2 months. What's your secret? Edited June 22, 2020 by Good To Be Retired Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted June 22, 2020 Share #28 Posted June 22, 2020 8 hours ago, 250swb said: Yes, you need a lens coding template (check other threads for this) then if you code the lens with paint (don't use a Sharpie) you can set the camera to 'Auto Lens Detection' and it will recognise the code. For coding to work it rely's on two things, the code on the lens and the frame lines the lens brings up on the body. I don't know if the CV web site can comprehensively say if every single current CV M lens has the necessary rebate in the mount, on some exotic lenses there may be a screw in the way, but if you Google the lens you'll often find a better picture of the lens flange and you are looking for a faint concentric ring machined into the flange about 2mm wide (it can still be hard to spot in web photos). The header photo on this web page shows the rear of a CV lens with the machined rebate and two coding marks applied https://lavidaleica.com/content/leica-lens-codes Thank you 🙏 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikep996 Posted June 22, 2020 Share #29 Posted June 22, 2020 6 hours ago, Good To Be Retired said: That may be a NEW WORLD RECORD. I live pretty close to you and the ones I've ordered have taken something like 1 - 2 months. What's your secret? Don't know. Maybe just lucky! I ordered it from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detachable-6-bit-code-Leica-M-Mount-Lens-Adapter-28-90-90mm-6-hole-M8-M9/152399645074?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good To Be Retired Posted June 22, 2020 Share #30 Posted June 22, 2020 21 minutes ago, Mikep996 said: Don't know. Maybe just lucky! I ordered it from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detachable-6-bit-code-Leica-M-Mount-Lens-Adapter-28-90-90mm-6-hole-M8-M9/152399645074?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Ok, I'll try it from your guy instead of jnfinance. If the shipping dates are correct, your guy will still get me one sooner than the one from jnfinance I ordered a month ago. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 22, 2020 Share #31 Posted June 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Mikep996 said: Don't know. Maybe just lucky! I ordered it from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detachable-6-bit-code-Leica-M-Mount-Lens-Adapter-28-90-90mm-6-hole-M8-M9/152399645074?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 But when did you order it? If you refer to the postal service information out of China/Hong Kong at the moment there is no air traffic, everything is sent surface mail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikep996 Posted June 22, 2020 Share #32 Posted June 22, 2020 (edited) About 3 weeks ago - got it a week later. The ESTIMATED delivery date was from one to four weeks. My dad owned a '59 250GT. Edited June 22, 2020 by Mikep996 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 23, 2020 Share #33 Posted June 23, 2020 My '250swb' only refers to what I do as a job and coincidentally also my initials. If your dad's car was a '59 I guess most likely it would be the 250 GT LWB with the Scaglietti body? Do you know the chassis number? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikep996 Posted June 23, 2020 Share #34 Posted June 23, 2020 No - I was a pre-teen when he sold it. I was so disappointed because I thought it was really cool...It was a Ferrari and it was red! I was looking forward to learning to drive in it. That might be why he sold it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 23, 2020 Share #35 Posted June 23, 2020 I guess Ferris Bueller put an end to learning to drive in a Ferrari (even though it was a fake!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UliWer Posted June 23, 2020 Share #36 Posted June 23, 2020 The functions of the lens codes are all - more or less - described in the camera's manuals, though the descriptions are rather scattered, so it may be helpful trying to sum them up: The electronic function triggered by codings or manual lens detection reduce vignetting of a lens. If a lenses optical design shows vignetting - less light on the edges - the effect will be increased by a digital sensor. Light rays which hit the sensor in a flat angle will not have the same brightness as rays which go straight on the sensor in a 90 degree angle. So the optical vignetting of the lens is "worsened" by the "digital" vignetting of the sensor. Leica designed their sensors for the M with microlenses to cope with this problem from the very beginning with the M8, though they didn't think this special sensor design was sufficient and added the digital reduction of lens vignetting. This function is common to all M-Models since the M8 and still works for the Monochrom models. Though you can make your own decisions about this function: if you like the vignetting of a lens, say of the 1:5.6/28mm Summaron, you better switch lens detection off. You can also achieve "faults" by reduction of vignetting. I thought the lens detection for a 75mm Summilux was a good choice using the 1.5/85mm Summarex on the M9. But the results were funny: edges brighter than the rest of the picture. Since the Summilux shows a lot of vignetting the digital correction is rather strong - too much for the Summarex which shows almost no vignetting. Correction of color shifts. The problem of color shift in the edges of a digital sensor is related to the vignetting problem: light which does not go straight to the sensor may produce not only vignetting but also wrong colors in the edges - especially magenta and/or cyan shifts ("italian flag syndrome"). This was a big problem especially with wide angle lenses in the beginning of the M9. Leica managed to solve the problem - almost - by improvements of the firmware. With th electronics activated by codings or manual lens detection the color shifts may be reduced - not always, e.g. the 1:3.4/21mm Super-Angulon is "incurable" which lens detection ever you may choose. But in most cases it works rather well. More or less the same for the M (240). The M10 is much better as even without lens detection it does not show relevant color shift in the edges (with some infamous exceptions ilke the Super-Angulon). Or if you choose a wrong lens detection manually - e.g. for a 90mm lens,when you use a 28mm - the results for the M10 will not be really bad, but they will be rather bad for the M9. Of course color shift is no issue at all for a Monochrom M. Only for the M8 the codings had another function if you used UV/IR-filters on your lenses which was important for the M8. Lens detection also reduced color shifts from the UV/IR-filters with wide angle lenses. Therefore the M8 had a special option for lens detection with and without UV/IR-filters. No later M-model has this option as they don't need the special filters. Auto-Iso. This function of lens detection is mostly forgotten: you can choose Auto-Iso lens dependant so it copes for a certain shutter time - e.g. half of focal length - to avoid the results of shaking if you use too long shutter times. Therefore the camera has to "know" your focal length and it needs the coding or manual lens detection. You find this Auto-Iso function in the menue. Especially with an M Model, which does not produce much noise with higher Iso-values, this is a rather useful function. Flash. A similar function works for the flash synchronization with shutter times, also to be choosen from the menue. Most wanted and discussed in this forum but useless: Indication of the the lens in the EXIF. Other than the functions mentioned above it has no results on your photos. It is something for people obsessed with order and deserves a special chapter in the instructions for becoming unhappy. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreasG Posted June 23, 2020 Share #37 Posted June 23, 2020 Excellent summary, thank you! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelG Posted June 23, 2020 Share #38 Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) +1 A small point re lenscoding and vignetting is that certainly on the M246 (I don’t yet have an M10M...) one can leave lens coding on automatic but turn off the vignetting compensation independently. For some reason Leica discuss lens vignetting in the manual but decided to name the function “shading correction” in the camera menu......🙄 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited June 23, 2020 by NigelG Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/310751-coded-and-uncoded-m-lenses/?do=findComment&comment=3998224'>More sharing options...
Dennis Posted June 23, 2020 Share #39 Posted June 23, 2020 1 hour ago, AndreasG said: Excellent summary, thank you! +1 Thank you UliWer 🙏 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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