pewimap Posted June 10, 2020 Share #1 Posted June 10, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello guys, Is there anyone here getting the same sound with me, when I try to push the camera back (the back with the ISO switch), and then heard something flap flap into the frame of the body? Thanks Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/310443-leica-m6-camera-back-sound/?do=findComment&comment=3990691'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 Hi pewimap, Take a look here Leica M6 camera back sound. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
250swb Posted June 10, 2020 Share #2 Posted June 10, 2020 It's normal, just the rear door moving a bit against the light baffle on the inside of the baseplate. If you take the baseplate off you won't hear it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted June 10, 2020 Share #3 Posted June 10, 2020 This also ennoyed me years ago, for me simple "cure". Maybe (as I've done) replace the strip of foam at bottom of the back door. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 10, 2020 Share #4 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, a.noctilux said: This also ennoyed me years ago, for me simple "cure". Maybe (as I've done) replace the strip of foam at bottom of the back door. There shouldn't be any foam at the bottom of the back door? Maybe I'm wrong but it was the MP that introduced foam strips up the sides, other than that all M cameras only had a foam light seal across the top of the rear door aperture. Edited June 10, 2020 by 250swb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted June 10, 2020 Share #5 Posted June 10, 2020 Foam? None of my M bodies (2,3,4,5,6 from 1955 to 1985) have any foam seals. The seal at the top hinge of the door is just a strip of black cloth (flap) on all of these. One of mine (4 or 6) developed a light leak at the top of the door when this fabric strip got wrinkled at one end. Carefully flattening it back in place cured the issue. Otherwise the door "seals" just use light-trap labyrinth geometry. Curiously, my M2 has has velvet strips added on the body at the ends of the door flap - likely added during service at some time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a.noctilux Posted June 10, 2020 Share #6 Posted June 10, 2020 Sorry, I said "foam", but the thing is only a band of thick tape at the bottom door where the door touches base plate on M6. This is only on M6's door, as former M's door there are two "bumps" then later as on my M-A's "redesign" back door, a layer of metallic thickness compensation, affixed there (no more "tape/foam" with no more play or wear). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pewimap Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share #7 Posted June 10, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) 8 hours ago, 250swb said: It's normal, just the rear door moving a bit against the light baffle on the inside of the baseplate. If you take the baseplate off you won't hear it. yes, i know it's normal but sometime it annoys me when suddenly push the back and feel it something "cheap" 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 10, 2020 Share #8 Posted June 10, 2020 1 hour ago, pewimap said: yes, i know it's normal but sometime it annoys me when suddenly push the back and feel it something "cheap" If it feels cheap check your receipt for reassurance. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted June 10, 2020 Share #9 Posted June 10, 2020 6 hours ago, a.noctilux said: Sorry, I said "foam", but the thing is only a band of thick tape at the bottom door where the door touches base plate on M6. This is only on M6's door, as former M's door there are two "bumps" then later as on my M-A's "redesign" back door, a layer of metallic thickness compensation, affixed there (no more "tape/foam" with no more play or wear). Curious - this must be a running change during M6 production. My 1985 (Wetzlar) M6 is exactly like my 1968 M4 in this area, and the door has basically no give when closed. Another "running" change I hadn't noticed: My 1955 M3 (glass pressure plate) back door has tiny spring loaded balls at the lower edge ends of the door that snap into the body when the door fully closes before the baseplate is put on. It is necessary to unsnap the bottom of the door to open it after removing the baseplate. Very secure, but expensive, and slows the film loading a bit - probably an unpopular feature. It was gone by the 1958 M2 and 1960 M3 that I have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mute-on Posted June 11, 2020 Share #10 Posted June 11, 2020 Common across many models, not just M6. Refer thread in sister forum, below ... https://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54802 J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 11, 2020 Share #11 Posted June 11, 2020 You do hear of people adding light seals around the door to stop it clicking, but this defeats the purpose of the labyrinth light trap. And to think Leica are cutting corners by having a permanent solution in the labyrinth light trap consider how much cheaper it is for other manufacturers to solve the loading door problem with foam tape that needs replacing every ten years. You see some cameras where the owner has been chasing a light leak and added extra seals beside the official one at the top of the door. Any of the reasons given are bogus, the door is a precise component and should fit how it is designed to fit because the pressure plate is on the other side of it and that needs to sit square and with the right amount of pressure on the film. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now