Erato Posted June 28, 2020 Share #41 Posted June 28, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) 2 hours ago, evikne said: You mean how many "keepers"? Of course, it varies a lot, but usually I actually think there are too many. I don't want to have many similar shots in my library, so what I spend the most time after shooting, is to weed out the less good pictures. Bad timing is the most common reason that I delete a picture of moving kids, not misfocus. A disadvantage of shooting wide open with a rangefinder camera, is that I spend so much energy in getting the images in focus that it comes at the expense of timing. It annoys me a bit, because timing should otherwise be one of the absolute strengths of the rangefinder system. I agree with you, think before taking a picture would be much better than blind shots. Shallow DoF and deep focus are always a tight spot scenario(catch 22) sometime. I'd get a deeper DoF snapshot first then take another shot for shallow DoF if there's a chance. Other than that, zone focus and hyperfocal would be quite useful sometime for street and landscape photography. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 28, 2020 Posted June 28, 2020 Hi Erato, Take a look here Three settings for everything!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
evikne Posted June 28, 2020 Share #42 Posted June 28, 2020 I have also tried to photograph playing kids with zone focusing. It's indeed wonderful! With no need to focus, I can use all my energy to capture the right moments. But I guess I like the challenge of getting both correct focus with shallow DOF and capturing the right moments at the same time. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erato Posted June 28, 2020 Share #43 Posted June 28, 2020 1 hour ago, evikne said: I have also tried to photograph playing kids with zone focusing. It's indeed wonderful! With no need to focus, I can use all my energy to capture the right moments. But I guess I like the challenge of getting both correct focus with shallow DOF and capturing the right moments at the same time. Awesome!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblutter Posted June 28, 2020 Share #44 Posted June 28, 2020 On 4/28/2020 at 12:27 PM, adan said: My auto-ISO limit is 10000 - highest speed that avoids banding. But I'm a long-time "Tri-X pushed to 3200" photojournalist, so noise/grain don't scare me (but digital banding does!) When the light is really dim, and I am using my f/4.0 135mm, then I go manual with a shutter speed of 1/125-1/250, and use the M-for-Menu setting at ISO 12500. And use my secret-sauce post-processing to suppress the shadows and banding (looks like push-processed film "chalk and charcoal" tones) - but again that is something I "grew up with" and find acceptable when required. Conversely, there are times when the brightness range is really excessive, and I go to manual metering/ISO for the main subject, and let the highlights blow. Graphically effective "negative white space" doesn't scare me either - when it enhances the subject. 75 Summilux, M10, f/2, ISO 400, manually exposed for main subject. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Nice exposure! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted June 28, 2020 Share #45 Posted June 28, 2020 I use exclusively Ilford XP2 as for 200ASA. If you dig enough you can find that Ilford acknowledges that this film performs best at 200 ASA. My experience is that on a bright “sunny” day the settings are f5.6 and 1/250th. Other light situations can be estimated quite well using well known definitions, and the occasional meter test agrees. Makes photographic life both easy and successful. Lets me think about pictures rather than physics and chemistry. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share #46 Posted February 11, 2022 On 6/28/2020 at 5:19 AM, evikne said: I have also tried to photograph playing kids with zone focusing. It's indeed wonderful! With no need to focus, I can use all my energy to capture the right moments. But I guess I like the challenge of getting both correct focus with shallow DOF and capturing the right moments at the same time. Zone focus is always helpful and fast. But when a moment is happening, the right choices of DoF and proper composition, always make the difference. Anyway, the old-school good-techniques are the best.. And still very effective nowadays. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcusick Posted February 15, 2022 Share #47 Posted February 15, 2022 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) I use a version of sunny 16. Base iso on the m10r I assume is around 200. I target iso 200 then work backwards... Sunny 16 would dictate 1/200 or slower shutter speed at full sunlight and f16.... Too slow. So I bump the aperture to f8.... Wide enough for a sufficiently close hyper focal distance..... From there I get a shutter speed of 1/500... Fast enough. I then play with aperture and shutter speed to adapt to my desired effect.... Edited February 15, 2022 by rcusick Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share #48 Posted February 15, 2022 21 minutes ago, rcusick said: I use a version of sunny 16. Base iso on the m10r I assume is around 200. I target iso 200 then work backwards... Sunny 16 would dictate 1/200 or slower shutter speed at full sunlight and f16.... Too slow. So I bump the aperture to f8.... Wide enough for a sufficiently close hyper focal distance..... From there I get a shutter speed of 1/500... Fast enough. I then play with aperture and shutter speed to adapt to my desired effect.... Exactly. I never use more than f/8, So my slower setting for my basic street-mood at 200 iso, it would be 1/1000 f/8 ... But I expose for the highlights. From 1/1000 one can finally goes easy to 1/250 (two stops) for shadow. If more is needed, I rise the ISO. Does it make sense? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcusick Posted February 15, 2022 Share #49 Posted February 15, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Dennis said: Exactly. I never use more than f/8, So my slower setting for my basic street-mood at 200 iso, it would be 1/1000 f/8 ... But I expose for the highlights. From 1/1000 one can finally goes easy to 1/250 (two stops) for shadow. If more is needed, I rise the ISO. Does it make sense? Exactomundo. My workflow / thought process exactly. I use a different methodology indoors - basically starting with f1.4 and iso 400 to get to a minimum shutter speed of 1/60... Which obviously only works for stills and has shallow depth of field. Edited February 15, 2022 by rcusick 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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