Shooting film in super cold conditions

[erniethemilk]

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Off on a Christmas trip to Lapland next week for Christmas and thinking I’d like to take my M6 and a couple of rolls of film with me. 

Wondering on tips for metering film in snowy conditions and also gear care for temperatures that could go as low as -25 degrees and really dry conditions.

Any tips gratefully received. 

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[Arrow]

I did some ten minutes long time exposures in winter nights with - 10 degrees with Hasselblad V and Rolleiflex Automat (1937). Booth cameras worked fine! 

The only issue might me lubricants that may low temperature sensitive.

Edited December 13, 2019 by Arrow

[TomB_tx]

I used various 35mm cameras at temperatures -20 to -30 F back in the late 1960s. Going in and out of heated buildings would cause condensation and fogging of lenses & VF, as will taking the camera in and out of your coat. I found it best to let the cameras stay out and cool off until ready to quit. My cameras had no batteries, which would drop voltage in the cold, so your M6 may not meter the best.

Don't transport film fast or static discharge can occur - be slow and gentle.

[benqui]

I was in Lapland with my M4 and an external light meter without any problems. To prevent damage to the film while loading, I preserved the rolls always in my jacket. Thats all. Maybe the batteries can be an issue, when it is very cold outside. In order to prevent any problems when changing lenses, I just had a 35mm lens with me.Do not forget additional batteries and/or an external light meter (incident light metering)

 

Enjoy your trip

[ktmrider2]

1). Batteries lose voltage if exposed to cold for long periods.  I would keep the camera under my coat except when shooting.

2). In extremely cold and dry conditions, the chance of static electricity is increased which could leave marks on the film.  Advance the film just a bit slower than normal to lesson the chance of static electricity.

3). When entering a building or other warm environment with a camera that is cold soaked, there is a chance of condensation.  Before entering, place the camera in a ziplock bag and then enter the building.  Leave it in the sealed bag until it reaches the ambient temperature.  If you have any exposed film which has gotten cold soaked, place it back in the plastic containers it came in until it reaches ambient temperature also.

4). Some suggest replacing the lubricant with special oils designed for extreme cold.  I have never done this and don't really think it necessary.

5). If the camera gets really really cold (not placed under your jacket between use) and you are not wearing gloves, in extreme cases flesh from bare hands can stick to the metal parts of the camera.  I have never seen it but have heard sea stories.  I suggest a pair of lightweight liner gloves when handling the camera or loading film as they will protect your hands from the cold for the short time they are normally exposed and should not interfere with your dexterity.  Your hands will thank you for them.

6).  Remember to open up a stop to stop and a half if you are planning on using a reflective meter (like in the M6), especially if there is a lot of snow in the photo.  I have read that you should actually close down a half to full stop if using an incident meter (no experience but read it in a book on incident metering).

Have fun.  I shoot in Alaska quite often and only problem I have ever had was with a new M6TTL which would exhaust the battery after an hour outside.  It turns out it was a defect of early M6TTL's which Leica later corrected (or fixed on cameras with the problem).  Did you know that minus 40 is the same on both Fahrenheit and Celsius?

Edited December 14, 2019 by ktmrider2

[Doc Henry]

... taken at -10°C -15°C with MP , M-A and M7 you can go .... not like digital 

Best  H

 

Edited December 14, 2019 by Doc Henry

[adan]

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22 hours ago, ktmrider2 said:

Good Stuff! Some additions...

1). Batteries lose voltage if exposed to cold for long periods.  I would keep the camera under my coat except when shooting. - Also doesn't hurt to carry an extra battery set in a warm inner pocket, if you'll be hours out in the cold. But with an M6, all you'd lose with battery failure is the metering.

5). If the camera gets really really cold (not placed under your jacket between use) and you are not wearing gloves, in extreme cases flesh from bare hands can stick to the metal parts of the camera.  I have never seen it but have heard sea stories.  I suggest a pair of lightweight liner gloves when handling the camera or loading film as they will protect your hands from the cold for the short time they are normally exposed and should not interfere with your dexterity.  Your hands will thank you for them. - Can also add slit-mittens (see photo below), where the outer ends will fold back at the palm to expose your liner-clad fingertips only as/when needed. NB: a black-paint camera is better insulated and less likely to freeze or stick to your pinkies than a black/silver-chrome-metal body.

6).  Remember to open up a stop to stop and a half if you are planning on using a reflective meter (like in the M6), especially if there is a lot of snow in the photo.  I have read that you should actually close down a half to full stop if using an incident meter (no experience but read it in a book on incident metering). -  Since you won't have the instant-feedback of digital, you could shoot a practice roll exposing for "reflective white" subjects with anything predominantly white (cars, houses, even bright concrete) before you go. Some of this will depend on whether you are shooting negatives (more tolerant of overexposure) or color slides (a bit more tolerant of underexposure).

Or meter off your hand-palm and open up 1 stop for causcasian skin, and use no correction for darker skin - a fair "approximation" of incident metering.

Working the ice-climbing competition, Ouray, Colorado, Jan. 2014 with Leica M9s and Canon 5DII in -10°C snow and gusty winds.

BTW, if your cameras collect snow like mine did - DON'T blow it off (your breath's moisture will fog up cold lenses and finders!). Brush it off with your mittens or a photo-blower-brush.

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Cell-phone photo by Kate Hall - used with permission.

 

[dkmoore]

1 hour ago, adan said:

Working the ice-climbing competition, Ouray, Colorado, Jan. 2014 with Leica M9s and Canon 5DII in -10°C snow and gusty winds.

BTW, if your cameras collect snow like mine did - DON'T blow it off (your breath's moisture will fog up cold lenses and finders!). Brush it off with your mittens or a photo-blower-brush.

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Cell-phone photo by Kate Hall - used with permission.

 

how did the M's fair? 

You look way to happy considering the conditions! They must have paid you well. 😎

[adan]

The Ms did fine - the Canon had a minor AF lockup (not sure if it was cold, or more likely moisture penetration) that cleared up eventually.

I always look happy when I'm creating.

I was "paying" myself, but the results ran in my mag along with another "winter" story.

http://www.coloradoseen.com/2014/

 

[MarkP]

6 hours ago, adan said:

 

I was "paying" myself, but the results ran in my mag along with another "winter" story.

http://www.coloradoseen.com/2014/

 

Fabulous photos and article 🙂

[105012]

In very cold conditions film can be quite brittle, so a little bit more care with it when loading/advancing/rewinding is warranted...

[Kl@usW.]

I´ve been to Lapland in winter several times. Temp down to -25 C at the hut window.   I carried the M2 in the outer pocket of the anorak or on a strap around my neck. . Camera inside the anorak  will cause condensation the moment you put it back after use. Take a small plastic bag and put the camera in that bag  once you enter a warm room, a hut etc. I used a small external meter  ( DigiSix by Gossen) and carried this in my trouser pocket.  No problems at all, the M had no special lube. Just advance the film slow and carefully. 

K. 

 

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M2, Summaron 5,6/28; Agfa Scala

[otto.f]

I would take my M4 with a Gossen Digisix. If I had an M6 I would bring the Digisix too, a great little meter, very lightweight. You have to calibrate it though with your M6 and a grey card. Incident metering is the best for snowy scenes. You will like it after this trip too. Take extra batteries for it because they tend to run out soon. 

[Ko.Fe.]

Film in my M4-2 broke after skating with it on me for two hours at -28C.

 

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Get few big ziplock bags. Every time you will get in from outside, put camera into it before entering.

LR44 batteries craps out in no time under this temperature. Install lightmeter app on your phone and use it for precise exposure metering.

Edited December 16, 2019 by Ko.Fe.

[plasticman]

Have used film in -20 celsius. But if the conditions were like @adan 's adventure, all my cameras would be locked up indoors. 🥶

Incidentally, in the past when I came in from the cold, my usual method is to leave my camera inside the bag that's cold. I've found that the bag and its contents warm slowly enough to not cause any condensation - this may be helped by the very low indoor humidity level in Swedish homes. 

[dkmoore]

On 12/14/2019 at 9:43 PM, adan said:

The Ms did fine - the Canon had a minor AF lockup (not sure if it was cold, or more likely moisture penetration) that cleared up eventually.

I always look happy when I'm creating.

I was "paying" myself, but the results ran in my mag along with another "winter" story.

http://www.coloradoseen.com/2014/

 

Very cool, thank you for sharing. I took a look and enjoyed.