Polarizer Use on M Lens with No TTL Metering

[ash13brook]

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Does anyone use a polarizer on an M lens on a camera with no TTL metering?

Is there a polarizer with some sort of marks for indicating the amount of polarization and/or filter factor?

I have been using a yellow filter, but I don't feel it's the same and thought I'd try a polarizer. I see things with my sunglasses on and think" nice" - then, with the glasses off, the impact is gone.

Thanks, 

Matt

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[a.noctilux]

Leica 13352 swinging polarizer if your lens is A42 kind.

see this link, at post #28

Filter factor is variable with this polarizer depending on the subject, so metering is nice idea or bracket.

[jdlaing]

Which M camera did you have in mind?

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Matt,

Welcome to the Forum.

If you end up using a Leitz swing out 13352 for A42/E39 lenses, or 1 of its 2 siblings, & you tighten the ring with the engraved "P" straight up at 12 o'clock high:

When you swing out the filter until it stops: The rotating filter will stop precisely in front of the appropriate viewfinder window. Just rotate the filter while it is in front of the viewfinder window until you like what you see. Swing back the filter until it "clicks". & take the photo.

By the way, some 13352's work reasonably well if you use a filter factor of -5 DIN which is the same as -1&2/3 stops. Which means that if your film has a speed of 100/21 then set the meter to 32/16. You might try for yourself & see.

If you are using a meter capable of measuring with 2 or more different ISO's at the same time that makes metering both with & without the filter easier.

Best Regards,

Michael

Edited November 7, 2019 by Michael Geschlecht

[Michael Geschlecht]

15 minutes ago, Michael Geschlecht said:

Hello Matt,

Best Regards,

Michael

 

Edited November 7, 2019 by Michael Geschlecht

[ash13brook]

I'll be using it on an M4-P with a 50mm Summicron.

 

Matt

[jdlaing]

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10 minutes ago, ash13brook said:

I'll be using it on an M4-P with a 50mm Summicron.

 

Matt

In that case the swing out polarizer is probably the best bet.

[a.noctilux]

5 minutes ago, ash13brook said:

I'll be using it on an M4-P with a 50mm Summicron.

 

Matt

If your Summicron has no sliding hood, you can use the POL A42 ref 13352 ...

very easy to use and you see what will be reflection free in the VF just before swing the hood in place to take the picture.

Follow advices from Michael post #4 to begin with  -1 and 2/3 stops then adapt the exposure (or bracket if you can),

with Sunny 11 for example, set for f/5.6 + 1/3

[tommonego@gmail.com]

My experience with a polarizer on large format cameras is a polarizer runs about 2 stops, have never had it under that, at times 2.5 stops, a polarized subject always got at least 2 sheets of 4x5. Did a book of highly reflective medical instruments with polarized light and a filter on the lens. I used B+W filters, so the Leica swing out may be less dense. Bracket!

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Everybody,

It might be helpful to meter a solid color wall with diffuse light first with the meter alone & then with the polarizing filter in front of the meter. The polarizing filter should be rotated until it produces the longest exposure & that is the number to begin with.

Example: If the shutter speed is 1/125 and the reading thru the filter varies from F4 to F5.6 as the filter is rotated: Use the F4. 

Best Regards,

Michael

[ash13brook]

Thanks for all of the help. I think the 13352 is my answer. The swing out feature really answers the real question I had for using the polarizer on a rangefinder - being able to tell when you have the amount of polarization needed.

I'll probably meter through it in a few spots and make some temporary marks. Then I'll bracket a few exposures at each spot before making more permanent reference markings, hopefully committing to memory the amount of compensation need at each.

 

Matt

[Jean-Michel]

Hi,

The density of the polarizer filters the same regardless of its rotation in order to adjust the amount of polarization you want. I have an old Leica 'swing' polarizer, it requires one and a third  f/stop more for a correct exposure. You can easily check the exposure compensation by measuring a scene with your handheld reflective meter and then measuring it again with the file in front of the meter, you will soon find that your particular filter simply need a specific adjustment, most likely a one stop more. Of course, parts of your scene will render darker, such as wet leaves or the sky, but that is because you have removed some scattered light they are now darker. You soon learn to make an adjustment to your exposure just by quickly analyzing the scene trough the filter.