software for M9 Monochrom

[hundredwaters]

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Thank you to everyone responding to my recent questions about SD cards and sensor replacement.  Luckily I do have a camera with a replaced sensor (hopefully the new type).  I had a quick question about what software people recommend with the Monochrom for a Mac.  I have Lightroom as part of my Adobe suite, but I have read its not the easiest to use with the M9M and there are better options for B and W.

Also - any guides to exposure/image porcessing guides online for the M9M that people recommend.

Thank you!

HW

[ianman]

31 minutes ago, hundredwaters said:

any guides to exposure/image porcessing guides online for the M9M that people recommend.

You could do worse than look at what Colin (the master of the M9M) has shared here: 

As for other software, it depends really on how much editing you need. I don't edit my photos much, or at all really. I use Iridient Developer for my own M9 (not monochrome!!) photos but just like the camera, there aren't too many bells and whistles. No retouching, no layers, etc, but it's more than enough for me.

[Likaleica]

I open in Lightroom and make adjustments as needed.  OOC files are flat so they need a curve which you can easily do through sliders.  Since it's not a color file there are a lot of sliders you don't have to worry about, mostly setting white and black points for starters.  You can go to either the curves tool or the levels tool for finer control.  Then you can use the standard dodging and burning tools.

If you want more options you can take the file directly over to Silver Efex 2 Pro where you have access to all kinds of tools, such as film emulation, finer contrast and detail control, etc.  That app takes a little longer to learn.

[Likaleica]

1 minute ago, ianman said:

You could do worse than look at what Colin (the master of the M9M) has shared here: 

As for other software, it depends really on how much editing you need. I don't edit my photos much, or at all really. I use Iridient Developer for my own M9 (not monochrome!!) photos but just like the camera, there aren't too many bells and whistles. No retouching, no layers, etc, but it's more than enough for me.

Agree.  Colin is a master at the monochrom and he is very generous to offer this for us.

[250swb]

The standout software is still Silver Efex Pro available from DxO and use it as a plugin.

[jaapv]

One trick, that works wonders on many B&W files as a final tweak: pull up the midtones in Curves, then apply linear contrast.

[ramosa]

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For my MM files, I use Capture One and have a preset that is "similar" to Tri-X (e.g., tonality), but with no grain. I apply it and then tinker as needed (again, adding no grain). I don't want to spend too much time post-processing, so--for me--the preset helps. 

[dkmoore]

8 hours ago, 250swb said:

The standout software is still Silver Efex Pro available from DxO and use it as a plugin.

Are you using the latest iteration from DXO or the old version? I’ve been using the old (free) version for at least 5-6 years but I am wondering if the latest version has a lot more to offer? 

debating whether to upgrade/update. 

I use the latest Lightroom and Photoshop. 
 

[250swb]

I'm still using the old free version in the current Photoshop but I understand the Nik Suite hasn't been updated since DxO got it. I think perhaps Nik got to the point where there wasn't much left to improve so the business model tapered out and it was sold to Google. DxO obviously see a new market because there isn't anything out there that as a set of software suits both the experienced photographer and also the advanced Instagram'er generation.

[AceVentura1986]

I still use Lightroom v6 and am reasonably happy w it. The OOC images are a bit flat so I bump the “whites” and “clarity” slider by 25 points each and set a tone curve that looks a bit like a candy cane in that it’s curved upward near the “whites” but un altered near the “blacks”. Also, I usually apply a slight vignette to darken the corners and some digital gain as well. The goal is to make the image look as filmic as possible. 

Finally, I find I get better results in high ISO situations if I cap my ISO at 1600 and then push in Lightroom rather than just shoot at ISOs higher than 1600 in camera. The files are very pliable in this regard. 

[jaapv]

Watch that Clarity slider! It creates large halos!

[otto.f]

11 minutes ago, AceVentura1986 said:

I still use Lightroom v6 and am reasonably happy w it. The OOC images are a bit flat so I bump the “whites” and “clarity” slider by 25 points each and set a tone curve that looks a bit like a candy cane in that it’s curved upward near the “whites” but un altered near the “blacks”. 

I am very curious how that looks

Edited November 5, 2019 by otto.f

[otto.f]

I often put ‘ Lens detection’ OFF in the menu of the camera. So I don’t need the vignetting in the postprocess and I’ll get that 60-70’s look of my older lenses like Summicron 35 iv and Summilux 75. If I remember well I did that here too and these are hardly postprocessed, but shot RAW to  jpeg converted in CaptureOne:

https://lotwouda.zenfolio.com/p735541593/h601351c7#h601351c7

Edited November 5, 2019 by otto.f

[AceVentura1986]

23 hours ago, otto.f said:

I am very curious how that looks

Try this: Instagram page, LensCulture,  and This gallery on my website. 

[dkmoore]

I may try this candy cane J curve. Nice work in all three links.