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The last time I looked, changing ISO (same as unloading a 125ASA film and loading a 800ASA film) changed either/or exposure time and aperture. A  value difference on the ASA scale has same relationship as EV (ie going from 400ASA to 800ASA has a one stop difference in shutter speed or aperture). That there are other options, such as development time or 'sliders', does not negate the basis principle.Shutter,aperture and Iso all work in combination to achieve correct exposure. Jaapv, I know you know and understand this, so I must be totally missing the point you are trying to make.

If the point you are making is changing the ISO 'only' changes the sensitivity of the sensor, I totally agree (same as changing ASA of film). But that does impact on the other exposure perameters for correct exposure. 

The first article you link to talks about a system to avoid using ISO as an exposure parameter, ergo acknowledging that it is a parameter.

Edited by pedaes
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Increasing ISO does not supply the image sensor with more light "for real" as happens when opening the aperture or extending the exposure time. ISO only manipulates the content after it hits the image sensor. Therefore, ISO cannot be considered a true part of the exposure triangle.

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Just now, evikne said:

Increasing ISO does not supply the image sensor with more light "for real" as happens when opening the aperture or extending the exposure time. ISO only manipulates the content after it hits the image sensor. Therefore, ISO cannot be considered a true part of the exposure triangle.

OK - I see the subtlety of the debate - you are talking at a factual level of how the sensor/ processor work. Also therefore see point jaapv making, that there may be better? options to achieve same result as changing ISO above base level. Equally though, at a practical level most will accept, for a given light level, if you increase ISO you will reduce other exposure measures to get same  outcome. Time to move on!

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On 9/7/2019 at 10:18 AM, jaapv said:

No, it does not change the brightness of the photo, as you can adjust it in postprocessing without quality loss on an ISO invariant camera. This means that you can "underexpose" an image at your desired EV at ISO 200, and pull it up to for instance ISO 3200 in Lightroom etc. without quality loss, provided you have an ISO invariant camera. If you search the forum you'll find various threads discussing this theme for different M models. For instance the M8 had better noise performance used this way.

+1

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36 minutes ago, lct said:

Sorry to insist but ISO does change the brightness of the photo as shown above. 

 

I think you are talking at the practical level of what happens in reality in relation to the recorded image file. We all know that the amount of light hitting the sensor isn't increased by changing the ISO, but changing the ISO does influence the result. Not sure what is important about the semantics!

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16 minutes ago, pedaes said:

Not sure what is important about the semantics!

There is a very important difference between light that actually hits the sensor and brightness that is artificially boosted afterwards. 

Edited by evikne
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26 minutes ago, evikne said:

There is a very important difference between light that actually hits the sensor and brightness that is artificially boosted afterwards. 

Do you actually see that artificial boost effect in my pics above? How do you explain that clipping can be prevented by changing only isos then?

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It cannot prevent clipping. Clipping occurs when you choose your exposure parameters i.e. shutterspeed and aperture such that too much light hits the sensor, which overloads the sensels (AKA pixels). In your images you were playing with exposure compensation and you did not equalize the brightness in post, nor did you provide histograms, so they tell us nothing.

If you want to compare, take two images with exactly the same exposure  (shutter/aperture), no EV compnsation, no Auto-ISO,  at different ISO and pull the darker one up to equal brightness in Lightroom.

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To me, this discussion is mainly about the usefulness of always leaving the ISO at the base setting and just having to concentrate on the two real exposure parameters, aperture and exposure time. I guess those who photograph fully manual have the biggest advantage of this, and even more if they have a screen-less camera. For others, it doesn't matter that much.

I do it myself most of the time, even though my M10 maybe isn't fully ISO invariant.

Edited by evikne
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11 hours ago, evikne said:

To me, this discussion is mainly about the usefulness of always leaving the ISO at the base setting and just having to concentrate on the two real exposure parameters, aperture and exposure time.

Then you don't do auto iso in manual mode. I do personally and i do prevent clipping by simply changing iso when i want to keep the same aperture and shutter speed. Works fine.

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11 hours ago, jaapv said:

[...] If you want to compare, take two images with exactly the same exposure  (shutter/aperture), no EV compnsation, no Auto-ISO,  at different ISO and pull the darker one up to equal brightness in Lightroom.

Why should i do comparos like this? I did mine already. See my pics above. They show that brightness can be changed by simply changing iso and that clipping is prevented this way. The proof is in the pudding:).

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Just now, jaapv said:

I'm sorry. I really do my best to explain, but it seems I am unable to instill understanding.

I'm not interested in theories that much sorry. In my day to day practice auto iso in manual mode is my favorite exposure technique by far. YMMV.

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It has been mentioned more than a few times on this forum, including this thread. There is nothing wrong with it, but on many cameras it  will only help for chimping, as the final result will be no different -in some cases better (and in some cases, like Canon cameras, worse) if you choose the proper exposure values for the scene and shoot at base ISO.

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