XĂcara de CafĂ© Posted June 7, 2019 Share #1  Posted June 7, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) The cladding (vulcanite?) on my IIIf recently started to break away. I've ordered a replacement from hugostudio.com. The site suggests using paint stripper applied with a brush to remove the remaining glue on the body, however I wonder if people on the forum have any suggestions specific to Leica III cameras? All the best, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 7, 2019 Posted June 7, 2019 Hi XĂcara de CafĂ©, Take a look here Technique to remove glue from IIIf body. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Stacey Posted June 7, 2019 Share #2 Â Posted June 7, 2019 I would test automotive brake cleaner, that's what I have used to remove the glue on other cameras and it dries with no residue. It also hasn't attacked paint etc but again, test, I haven't used it on a Leica. Â 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndreasG Posted June 7, 2019 Share #3 Â Posted June 7, 2019 Try nail polish remover, it should do it and is certainly a household item. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted June 7, 2019 Share #4 Â Posted June 7, 2019 Nail polish remover is good, however I use alcohol, goes very well. Turpentine is good as well 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
XĂcara de CafĂ© Posted June 7, 2019 Author Share #5  Posted June 7, 2019 Thanks everyone. The suggestions keep getting easier. I'll try alcohol first and then if that doesn't do the job, I'll work back through the harder stuff. All the best! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted June 8, 2019 Share #6  Posted June 8, 2019 Dös your IIIf have Self-Timer? You will need to unscrew the lever before applying leatherette. Spann firstly ST, unscrew the lever and take care not to touch ST release button when handling. Otherwise ST will unwound completely and you will have to spann it later. Not too much complicated but a bit annoying to adjust properly. Under the lever there are two small shims with a notch, easy to lose them. Observe their position before removing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gobert Posted June 8, 2019 Share #7  Posted June 8, 2019 Advertisement (gone after registration) The only decent way to remove contact type of glue is mechanically. Some people use thinner, but it’s too agressive, you might end up with a white Leica. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted June 8, 2019 Share #8 Â Posted June 8, 2019 Gobert, glue used by Leitz at that time was based on shellack. Depending how much of glue will stay on alu shell after vulcanit will be removed you may start with mechanical cleaning completing then with alcohol. When removing mechanically care shall be taken that nothing from removed glue will fall into the camera. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
XĂcara de CafĂ© Posted June 8, 2019 Author Share #9  Posted June 8, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, jerzy said: Dös your IIIf have Self-Timer? You will need to unscrew the lever before applying leatherette. Yes it does but fortunately, I don't believe it's necessary to remove any levers as the leatherette can be slid over the lever as shown in this video for the M3 here:  Aki-asahi.com has a very similar product with fitting instructions here: http://aki-asahi.com/store/html/IIIf-self/install/01_e.html Good to know that the glue is shellack based. So alcohol seems the best solvent to use.  Edited June 8, 2019 by XĂcara de CafĂ© Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted June 8, 2019 Share #10 Â Posted June 8, 2019 Good trick with alcohol to reduce adhesivity, it might work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted June 9, 2019 Share #11  Posted June 9, 2019 French polish is shellac dissolved in a mixture of ethyl and methyl alcohol, so a mixture of those (sometimes called denatured alcohol) should remove any shellac based glue. It is probably not a quick process and I would think that it would take some time to soften before it could be wiped off. Little and often applications of the alcohol would be my guess. You don't want any of the dissolved glue to get into any holes or gaps on any of the controls, or when the alcohol evaporates, it will turn back into set glue. Wilson 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted June 9, 2019 Share #12  Posted June 9, 2019 Wilson, this is exactly what I use, denatured alcohol, I just did not know English name for it. It goes pretty fast and relatively easily. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
XĂcara de CafĂ© Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share #13  Posted June 9, 2019 Started removing the glue with 70% medicinal grade alcohol and cotton wool. Coming off very well. Thanks again. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted June 9, 2019 Share #14  Posted June 9, 2019 (edited) My wife has been recently on an antique furniture restoration course, where she was using french polish and the overall she had been wearing, still smelt of it when she got back home. The smell of this took me straight back to school art classes, where those of us less gifted in the drawing and painting skills (me!), were very sensibly allowed to move over to crafts, where we made small boxes and french polished them (rather badly). Denatured alcohol with shellac has a particularly distinctive and rather pleasant aroma. It is interesting how smells are one of the strongest triggers for memories. Wilson Edited June 9, 2019 by wlaidlaw 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
XĂcara de CafĂ© Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share #15  Posted June 9, 2019 Yes, I know the smell too. I made some furniture a couple of years ago and made shellac varnish with ethanol from the bowser (most modern cars can run on ethanol here). Worked well but a little sticky. Perhaps I laid it on too thick. Great colour though. All the best! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB_tx Posted June 9, 2019 Share #16  Posted June 9, 2019 5 minutes ago, XĂcara de CafĂ© said: Worked well but a little sticky. Perhaps I laid it on too thick. Great colour though. All the best! French polished guitars would tend to stick to the hair on the player’s forearm. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerzy Posted June 10, 2019 Share #17 Â Posted June 10, 2019 same type of glue was used by Leitz to fix the curtains on the drums/shafts. Even after 70 years, when removing it you can smell the aroma Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gobert Posted June 10, 2019 Share #18  Posted June 10, 2019 There are no psychedelic effects? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted June 15, 2019 Share #19 Â Posted June 15, 2019 On 6/8/2019 at 3:59 AM, jerzy said: Gobert, glue used by Leitz at that time was based on shellack. Depending how much of glue will stay on alu shell after vulcanit will be removed you may start with mechanical cleaning completing then with alcohol. When removing mechanically care shall be taken that nothing from removed glue will fall into the camera. The solvent for shellac is ethanol or denatured alcohol. Methanol is poison to humans as is denatured. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted June 15, 2019 Share #20 Â Posted June 15, 2019 29 minutes ago, tobey bilek said: The solvent for shellac is ethanol or denatured alcohol. Methanol is poison to humans as is denatured. How about isopropyl alcohol? Denatured, certainly, but would it work? Acetone? Â Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now