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Church ruin in the blue hour. Merged from 10 images – five images in two rows.

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M10, 35mm Summilux pre-ASPH v2 @ f/8

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M10, 35mm Summilux pre-ASPH v2 @ f/2.8

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20 hours ago, robbie3 said:

I wanted to see the effect half stop aperture changes make to the rendering of point lights as the results are interesting if a little wild at times.

I took a series of photos from a balcony roughly on the same level as a net of small lights stretching across the market hall.

I set the focus point on the Thai Street Food stall roughly in the centre.

I took five photos from f/1.4 to f/2.8 in half stop increments. The f/2.8 photo will give you an idea how close the nearest bulbs were to me. The lights are similar to home Xmas tree lights.

This is not a rigorous test but it might be useful to someone considering this lens.

 

M10-D, 35mm Summilux v2 @ f/1.4

M10-D, 35mm Summilux v2 @ f/1.7

M10-D, 35mm Summilux v2 @ f/2

M10-D, 35mm Summilux v2 @ f/2.4

M10-D, 35mm Summilux v2 @ f/2.8

Interesting, in my words: how the coma is used in a creative way. I must say, in the last pictures I start to miss that element! I am investigating this aspect myself: painterly (is that a good word); or clean? [My most used 35 has this signature too wide open with those ChristmasLED lighting; and like here that is like a layer over a perfect sharp background. Is that a Mandler signature? ]  The effect is in my experience sort of more seen on the high res sensors -like my M10r.

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21 hours ago, robbie3 said:

I wanted to see the effect half stop aperture changes make to the rendering of point lights as the results are interesting if a little wild at times.

I took a series of photos from a balcony roughly on the same level as a net of small lights stretching across the market hall.

I set the focus point on the Thai Street Food stall roughly in the centre.

I took five photos from f/1.4 to f/2.8 in half stop increments. The f/2.8 photo will give you an idea how close the nearest bulbs were to me. The lights are similar to home Xmas tree lights.

This is not a rigorous test but it might be useful to someone considering this lens.

Funny, yesterday I did almost exactly the same thing. I shot a series of images from f/1.4 to f/2.8 in half stop increments to see how the image changes from dreamy to sharp. For portraits I've usually used f/2 or f/2.8, but strangely enough I've almost never used f/1.7 and f/2.4 (I guess it's because I prefer to use round numbers). But these two intermediate settings proved to give a very nice effect, which I will definitely try out further.

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OK 35mm 1.4 pre-ASPH experts! considering getting one of these and have dispatched the Nokton 35mm 1.4 ii.

Good condition mid 1980's post recent CLA with some wear on the iris blades vs early 1970's good condition no obvious blade wear? Both Canadian. I like the softness and highlight bloom. I can't physically test either lens, shots suggest slightly more bloom and lower contrast on the 1980's lens although matched shot not quite matched as the higher contrast/lower bloom shot was focused slightly behind the target objects.

Any thoughts no preference?

Ta.

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Shot with Portra 400. Can't remember if these were f1.4, f1.7 or f2. 
 

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4 hours ago, 01maciel said:

I have to correct myself, my first statement was incorrect. I took another closer look. The distance was only 10-15 metres to the tree.

Thanks for the follow up. That image has spurred me to experiment a bit with wide-open landscape shots in the future. It’s interesting that the distant church tower is among the things that appear most in focus.

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1 hour ago, Derbyshire Man said:

OK 35mm 1.4 pre-ASPH experts! considering getting one of these and have dispatched the Nokton 35mm 1.4 ii.

Good condition mid 1980's post recent CLA with some wear on the iris blades vs early 1970's good condition no obvious blade wear? Both Canadian. I like the softness and highlight bloom. I can't physically test either lens, shots suggest slightly more bloom and lower contrast on the 1980's lens although matched shot not quite matched as the higher contrast/lower bloom shot was focused slightly behind the target objects.

Any thoughts no preference?

Ta.

Sorry, I'm no expert, there are many others here with much more knowledge and experience. But I've had two copies of this lens, my first was from the 80s and my current one is from the 70s, both Canadian. I think maybe my previous lens had a tad more contrast and less glow at large apertures, so I would think the newer ones might have better coating and maybe some other minimal differences. But I don't really care, because I'm just as happy with my new one. And I'm sure you could be happy with either one too.

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Velvia 100. 

The reverse 49mm filter into the 12504 hack is giving me a bit of vignetting, but not on every corner. It's mildly irritating... does everybody either use a series vii filter or go filterless?

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On 2/6/2024 at 4:46 PM, Derbyshire Man said:

OK 35mm 1.4 pre-ASPH experts! considering getting one of these and have dispatched the Nokton 35mm 1.4 ii.

Good condition mid 1980's post recent CLA with some wear on the iris blades vs early 1970's good condition no obvious blade wear? Both Canadian. I like the softness and highlight bloom. I can't physically test either lens, shots suggest slightly more bloom and lower contrast on the 1980's lens although matched shot not quite matched as the higher contrast/lower bloom shot was focused slightly behind the target objects.

Any thoughts no preference?

Ta.

I’d take ‘70 years lens. 
 

 

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Dear guys,

I'm about to buy a Summilux 35mm pre-asph, I've found an aesthetically perfect example from a private seller but.. the aperture ring is very loose, it marks the aperture stops perfectly but it is loose. The seller says it is a typical feature of summilux 35 lenses, what is your experience as owners? Is the aperture ring usually loose in these lenses?

Thanks in advance for your answers.

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39 minutes ago, Freestyler977 said:

Dear guys,

I'm about to buy a Summilux 35mm pre-asph, I've found an aesthetically perfect example from a private seller but.. the aperture ring is very loose, it marks the aperture stops perfectly but it is loose. The seller says it is a typical feature of summilux 35 lenses, what is your experience as owners? Is the aperture ring usually loose in these lenses?

Thanks in advance for your answers.

Both my copies have had nice and tight aperture rings. If you can't accept this flaw, consider whether you can do without the lens for a few weeks or months while it's being serviced, or find another copy.

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Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Between games.

M10-D, 35mm Summilux v2 @ around f/1.7 or f/2

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I’ve bought one from Leica in Germany. It got as far as UPS, they demanded some documentation from the sender and now 24hrs later it’s on the way back to sender 😞

Also, marginal VAT rate? I take it I get whacked with the full amount when it hits the UK even though from EU?

Assuming of course it ever arrives. 

Edited by Derbyshire Man
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