pedaes Posted July 11, 2018 Share #81 Posted July 11, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) "....and putting a $20 filter in front of it." Quality filters are available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 11, 2018 Posted July 11, 2018 Hi pedaes, Take a look here 50mm APO with protection filter: Waste of money?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
logan2z Posted July 11, 2018 Share #82 Posted July 11, 2018 "....and putting a $20 filter in front of it." Quality filters are available. Understood, I own B+W filters. I just can't bring myself to use them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aperture 2 Posted July 11, 2018 Share #83 Posted July 11, 2018 When using a filter with the 28 summicron I think that the corners vignetting is stronger. Not an optical problem due to the glass but a mechanical origin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernest Posted July 12, 2018 Share #84 Posted July 12, 2018 Not sure if this has been asked in this thread.... Would those using "filters for protection", take the filter off just prior to taking a photo, and then returning the filter onto lens for resumption of protection ? Given a choice, do people prefer to take photos through a glass window or open window ? Don't forget the aesthetics; Saul Leiter, for example, shot through windows. Clarity is not always the issue because ambiguity can provoke interest. Links for some of Leiter's work: https://goo.gl/images/o6nMRm https://goo.gl/images/k2vxy3 https://goo.gl/images/o6nMRm Rog Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gelatino Posted July 13, 2018 Share #85 Posted July 13, 2018 (edited) I use the plastic front cap given with the lens like this Not sure if this has been asked in this thread.... Would those using "filters for protection", take the filter off just prior to taking a photo, and then returning the filter onto lens for resumption of protection ? Given a choice, do people prefer to take photos through a glass window or open window ? Edited July 13, 2018 by Gelatino Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 13, 2018 Share #86 Posted July 13, 2018 FWIW I'm in the 'no filter' camp. While a filter may not make a discernible difference in image quality, something just feels wrong to me about buying a multi-thousand dollar piece of precision optics and putting a $20 filter in front of it. I use the lens cap religiously and have a hood installed at all times. Of course I've taken some great pictures of the inside of my lens cap as a result but it doesn't happen often enough to be a big issue Please direct me to a shop that sells good quality filters for 20$ 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 13, 2018 Share #87 Posted July 13, 2018 Advertisement (gone after registration) I use the plastic front cap given with the lens like this You have a transparent front cap? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan2z Posted July 13, 2018 Share #88 Posted July 13, 2018 Please direct me to a shop that sells good quality filters for 20$ I bought the B+W 46mm MRC UV filter for my Summarit 35mm/2.4 from BH Photo for $22. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/11985-REG/B_W_66030559_46mm_UV_Haze_010.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 13, 2018 Share #89 Posted July 13, 2018 I wouldn't buy an UV filter for protection now that the Nano-coated protective ones are available. Those are extra-thin to reduce hypothetical aberrations, extra tough and far more easy to keep clean. UV filters are designed to reduce UV light. They don't really reduce haze nowadays as claimed in your link, on any post-1960 lens. On film one would use an 1A filter for that (or a yellow/orange/red for B&W), on digital the Haze slider in postprocessing. As your lenses transmit very little if any UV, the only use I can envisage might be on the top of Mount Everest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan2z Posted July 13, 2018 Share #90 Posted July 13, 2018 I wouldn't buy an UV filter for protection now that the Nano-coated protective ones are available. Those are extra-thin to reduce hypothetical aberrations, extra tough and far more easy to keep clean. UV filters are designed to reduce UV light. They don't really reduce haze as claimed in your link on any post-1960 lens. On film one would use an 1A filter for that, on digital the Haze slider in postprocessing. As your lenses transmit very little if any UV, the only use I can envisage might be on the top of Mount Everest. You asked for a pointer to a source of high quality filters for $20. B+W filters seem to be highly regarded and UV filters are often used for protection - hence the link I provided to a B+W UV filter from a major retailer for $22. Whether or not they are the best choice now that nano coated filters are available I can't say as I don't use filters at all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 13, 2018 Share #91 Posted July 13, 2018 That they are often used does not mean that they are the correct choice. There was no alternative in the past and photographers can be conservative in some ways. I used to be in the no-filter-I-use-a-hood-lenscap camp, without ever seeing proof of my prejudice; after a few damaged front elements I switched sides. If you don't use them at all why did you buy one? <puzzled> Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted July 13, 2018 Share #92 Posted July 13, 2018 FWIW I'm in the 'no filter' camp. While a filter may not make a discernible difference in image quality, something just feels wrong to me about buying a multi-thousand dollar piece of precision optics and putting a $20 filter in front of it. I use the lens cap religiously and have a hood installed at all times. Of course I've taken some great pictures of the inside of my lens cap as a result but it doesn't happen often enough to be a big issue The thing about this logic is that the cost of the lens is the sum of all the parts, plus the profit margins for manufacturer, distributor, logistics companies, dealer and tax man. The individual lens elements are only a small part of that total lens price and at cost, probably surprisingly cheap. Probably cheaper than some filters! Also the people who supply glass for lens manufacturing also supply glass for filter manufacturing, e.g. Hoya. Of course the proof is in the pudding, you can easily test for yourself if a filter makes any noticeable difference to image quality, unless they improve it (polarising filter to remove reflections etc). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith_W Posted July 13, 2018 Share #93 Posted July 13, 2018 You have a transparent front cap? I do! It's called a filter 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan2z Posted July 13, 2018 Share #94 Posted July 13, 2018 If you don't use them at all why did you buy one? <puzzled> I was planning on using it but ultimately decided against it. I guess time will tell if this was a poor decision. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharyngula Posted July 13, 2018 Share #95 Posted July 13, 2018 My 50 APO lives on my M 246 and I always have a yellow filter in place (or orange or red on rare occasions). I use this for the filter effects with a monochrom sensor (as with B&W film) and not for protection per se, but I guess it plays that role as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted July 13, 2018 Share #96 Posted July 13, 2018 When I am using digital cameras in bright daylight, I use a polarising filter a lot of the time. I tend to stick to B+W, Heliopan or Rodenstock. Over the last year or so, I have switched to Käsemann type pola filters, as they are just if not more effective in reducing haze, increasing contrast and reducing stray reflections and around 1EV or more lighter than a standard circular polarising filter. Wilson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted July 13, 2018 Share #97 Posted July 13, 2018 The thing about this logic is that the cost of the lens is the sum of all the parts, plus the profit margins for manufacturer, distributor, logistics companies, dealer and tax man. The individual lens elements are only a small part of that total lens price and at cost, probably surprisingly cheap. Probably cheaper than some filters! Also the people who supply glass for lens manufacturing also supply glass for filter manufacturing, e.g. Hoya. Of course the proof is in the pudding, you can easily test for yourself if a filter makes any noticeable difference to image quality, unless they improve it (polarising filter to remove reflections etc). From experience I can testify that front lens elements are not surprisingly cheap to replace, unfortunately Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gelatino Posted July 13, 2018 Share #98 Posted July 13, 2018 I read "take the filter off just prior to taking a photo......protection." didn't I? You have a transparent front cap? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexontario Posted July 15, 2018 Share #99 Posted July 15, 2018 I bought the Leica UV filter when I purchased my 50 APO LHSA. Thought it was a good idea wanted to keep the front glass clean and i would rather clean the filter lens. When on holiday the Leica neck strap managed to work its way off one side of the camera and it hit the cobblestone walk with I thud. I did not have the hood on at the time. The filter took the brunt of the impact with the camera body receiving a small the top left corner above the viewfinder. So no damage to the lens luckily . So even if there is some degradation to phots it was worth it to have the filter on . Only other issue with have the filter on is the supplied metal lens hood with not stay on as it is too shallow. I found that the supplied metal lens hood for my Leica 28 f2.8 is deeper and it will work so i use it as a lens cap ,if I'm not using the lens hood. ( i have read the 28 lens hood is the same for a 35 FLE) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkmoore Posted July 15, 2018 Share #100 Posted July 15, 2018 What strap and what M camera are you using? I can't even imagine this happening with the straps I use and am curious as to your setup. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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