bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Share #1 Posted October 25, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello- I am using M10 now, been shooting only with M9 over the past 5 years and always raw. Still only shoot raw, and mostly black and white but Curious feedback on setting exposure compensation in camera. With M9, did not use any menu buttons, just expose for main subject and shoot, curious on other M10 user thoughts who use these settings and feedback you have to share. Thank you! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 25, 2017 Posted October 25, 2017 Hi bellaluca, Take a look here Using Exposure Compensation. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Joakim Posted October 25, 2017 Share #2 Posted October 25, 2017 Hello- I am using M10 now, been shooting only with M9 over the past 5 years and always raw. Still only shoot raw, and mostly black and white but Curious feedback on setting exposure compensation in camera. With M9, did not use any menu buttons, just expose for main subject and shoot, curious on other M10 user thoughts who use these settings and feedback you have to share. Thank you! So you just dive into the first thread you find and start typing regardless of the subject of the discussion? Feedback, I use all means available to get the best possible exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted October 25, 2017 Share #3 Posted October 25, 2017 I have moved the query to a new thread. When posting to an existing thread, please do keep to the topic in that thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share #4 Posted October 25, 2017 Will do, thank you! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted October 25, 2017 Share #5 Posted October 25, 2017 Post deleted as I misunderstood the initial question. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
evikne Posted October 25, 2017 Share #6 Posted October 25, 2017 You can customize the wheel on the backside to work for exposure compensation (Menu > Customize Wheel). I guess this is the fastest way to use it. But I never need exposure compensation myself, because I always shoot in manual mode. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted October 25, 2017 Share #7 Posted October 25, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Exposure compensation is very important for optimizing.... I have in on favorites and use it all the time. Remember, your meter is dumb and can be frequently mislead. Can't afford that in the digital age. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share #8 Posted October 25, 2017 Shooting with the M10 or any digital would you say that it Seems that generally setting to a bit underexposed for optimal performance? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
evikne Posted October 25, 2017 Share #9 Posted October 25, 2017 Shooting with the M10 or any digital would you say that it Seems that generally setting to a bit underexposed for optimal performance? With the files from my nine year old Canon 5D Mark II I could recover about 2.0 EV from the highlights. From the M10 I can recover only 1.3 EV before the highlights are blown out. In return it has much more to dig out from the shadows. So for the M10 I think it usually is better that the files are slightly underexposed than overexposed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share #10 Posted October 25, 2017 Glad to hear your feedback, currently setting menu at EV -0.3 - for slightly underexposed . I was curious what M10 users are finding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcg Posted October 25, 2017 Share #11 Posted October 25, 2017 So you just dive into the first thread you find and start typing regardless of the subject of the discussion? Feedback, I use all means available to get the best possible exposure. I think that this is a little harsh treatment of a new forum member and also someone who is trying to find their way into our Leica community. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
evikne Posted October 25, 2017 Share #12 Posted October 25, 2017 currently setting menu at EV -0.3 - for slightly underexposed My experience with the M10's light meter is that it usually makes the images slightly underexposed with the standard settings. So I don't think it is necessary to set the exposure compensation to a lower level unless in situations where you really need it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share #13 Posted October 25, 2017 Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share #14 Posted October 25, 2017 I thought your first reply was indicating that you do slightly underexpose when you said this " So for the M10 I think it usually is better that the files are slightly underexposed than overexposed. " Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted October 25, 2017 Share #15 Posted October 25, 2017 With the files from my nine year old Canon 5D Mark II I could recover about 2.0 EV from the highlights. From the M10 I can recover only 1.3 EV before the highlights are blown out. In return it has much more to dig out from the shadows. So for the M10 I think it usually is better that the files are slightly underexposed than overexposed. I believe that this is not quite correct like that. Is it not rather the case that the sensor has a dynamic range that we do not know yet (until DxO Mark hast tested it). Within that dynamic range you are fine. I wonder now if the dynamic range of the so called "new" sensor is 12,5 or 13 or even 14 or more EVs. That is the whole point. And then it depends at what ISO settings we measure the dynamics. The higher the ISO the lower the dynamic range. Further when you look at the information that is in a RAW, there are much more details resp. data in the hights (right side of the histogram) than in the dark areas (left side of histogram). Therefor it is advisable to exposure as light as possible (move the histogram as far to the right as possible without toughing to the right); just not to blow the hights. This is called as well "exposure to the right" ETTR. Still the experience of evikne probably matches the experience of many users. The highlights are very delicate. Blown clouds can not be fixed any more. In landscape I started to do the following (manual settings): I measure first the sky and try to have the red bullet just red without any arrow. Then I give it an additional 1 ½ EV and with that setting I shoot then the landscape. As a result the sky will not be blown and still the histogram is very much to the right without (or slightly) touching the right side. As the histogram shows a JPG and not the RAW in Lightroom I have enough possibilities to set the exposure right as a RAW has a reserve of about 2 EV over the JPG. When you say that you generally you set your exposure at -⅓ EV then I would not advise to do that. It depends a lot on the situation. Does that make sense? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
evikne Posted October 25, 2017 Share #16 Posted October 25, 2017 When you say that you generally you set your exposure at -⅓ EV then I would not advise to do that. It depends a lot on the situation. Does that make sense? Maybe I expressed a bit unclear. What I meant was that I think the M10's light meter is perfectly calibrated against the sensor, so that the highlights not are blown out. So any compensation is usually not necessary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellaluca Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share #17 Posted October 25, 2017 Thanks for adding that, I did think that was the case, but wanted to hear more of other M10 users experiences too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M11 for me Posted October 25, 2017 Share #18 Posted October 25, 2017 Maybe I expressed a bit unclear. What I meant was that I think the M10's light meter is perfectly calibrated against the sensor, so that the highlights not are blown out. So any compensation is usually not necessary. This is my experience, too. We are normally on the safe side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tailwagger Posted October 25, 2017 Share #19 Posted October 25, 2017 FWIW, I expose at -.3 by default. As has been stated, there's a lot more room on the bottom as opposed to the top. That said, my wheel is set to EV and I find it I use it quite often, particularly in the blue and gold hours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdemeyer Posted October 26, 2017 Share #20 Posted October 26, 2017 I would add it depends on which metering method you using. If not in Live View, as I suspect is generally the case for most M shooters, you have a classical center-weighted metering system and need to deal with the characters of that first and foremost. I find that matters more than a routine 1/3 EV bias one way or another. If in Live View with multizone metering, things are completely different. But I don’t have enough experience in that mode to offer specific comments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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