bags27 Posted October 12, 2020 Share #101 Posted October 12, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) 1 hour ago, Rokkor said: So the Q is not suitable to scan negatives? What does "ideally 1:1" mean? this article should help: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/6519974919/macro-photography-understanding-magnification I should have said that the Q is not optimal as a macro for scanning. But it is great at what it does, and it all depends on your expectations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 12, 2020 Posted October 12, 2020 Hi bags27, Take a look here Film Scanners. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Guest Posted October 12, 2020 Share #102 Posted October 12, 2020 44 minutes ago, Doug A said: IR-based dust and scratch removal does not work. Yes, of course this is correct. I was always implicitly assuming colour negatives since the issue of dust and scratch removal was raised in the post by @Rokkor on Friday. Hermann-Josef Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwr50 Posted October 15, 2020 Share #103 Posted October 15, 2020 On 8/14/2020 at 11:20 AM, bags27 said: Plustek 120 Pro is now available. Tempting.... https://plustek.com/us/products/film-photo-scanners/opticfilm-120-pro/index.php?utm_source=news&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=first I've been using the new (really, updated) Plustek 120 Pro for about a month now. I've been scanning both 35mm and 120 film using Silverfast Ai Studio, and I can say that I have been getting excellent scan results -- as good or better than I used to get on my old Nikon Coolscan. It's slow, but that tends to be the nature of hi res scanning anyway. In my view, short of a drum scanner, the Plustek 120 Pro is probably the best that's out there now. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted October 15, 2020 Share #104 Posted October 15, 2020 vor 15 Minuten schrieb jwr50: I've been scanning both 35mm and 120 film using Silverfast Ai Studio, and I can say that I have been getting excellent scan results -- as good or better than I used to get on my old Nikon Coolscan. (...) It's slow, but that tends to be the nature of hi res scanning anyway. In my view, short of a drum scanner, the Plustek 120 Pro is probably the best that's out there now. Thank you. That sounds very good. With the batch scan this might be still ok with the speed. First I thought this would be nice 120 medium format only. Will take a look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted October 15, 2020 Share #105 Posted October 15, 2020 It is 2200€ in the Euro zone. Might be worth the price. For a casual analogue shooter I am still tempted going the 8200i or reflecta route. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwr50 Posted October 16, 2020 Share #106 Posted October 16, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, Rokkor said: That sounds very good. With the batch scan this might be still ok with the speed. Yes, the batch scanning capability was a major benefit for me. I'll just set it up for batch scanning in Silverfast, walk away, and come back later to load the next batch. I have been getting very high quality scans from it -- but much of that, I think, is attributable to the Silverfast software (using USM, iSRD, etc.) as it is the hardware itself. I've been scanning at 5,300 dpi and the results are impressive. It will scan at higher interpolated resolutions, but there doesn't appear to be any need to go any higher on 35mm film. Edited October 16, 2020 by jwr50 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted October 16, 2020 Share #107 Posted October 16, 2020 Advertisement (gone after registration) On 10/9/2020 at 10:06 PM, Rokkor said: I am trying to understand how feasible a scanner at home is for once and then scanning a film in a good quality (otherwise makes no sense using a good Leica camera with good lens). How long does a scan take with noise/scratch removal on a Plustek 8200i and on a Pacific Image XE/ Reflecta Proscan 10T? Would that take below an hour for a 36 film? I get the impression the XE /10T might be faster and better scan quality, but it is not so straightforward... thanks for your comments. Dust and scratch removal adds a considerable amount time in the scanning process, doubling or tripling it. You simply have to be sensible with your scanner workflow. If you have a roll of 36 scan them all at a lower resolution and without any dust removal etc, it's good enough for them to be evaluated and doesn't take long. That is your digital contact sheet of thumbnails to save in a folder. Pick out the ones you like to make full resolution scans, the average hit rate for a good photographer who can self edit may be three or four per roll. For the full res scan ideally don't use dust removal, it degrades the image, but since you are only scanning the good ones cleanup in Photoshop or Lightroom won't take long. Never use Sharpening on a full res scan, no scanner software can sharpen negatives as well as Adobe or other specialist tools. If you are using a camera again learn to self edit, three or four good ones from 36 is still a reasonable benchmark. So now once again you only have three or four to remove dust from. Because the 'scan' size is the same as taking any normal photograph you don't need a digital contact sheet. To convert the image from a negative to a positive there is software for the job, Color Perfect is good and so is Negative Lab Pro although this is a 'Lightroom only' plugin. There are workarounds in Photoshop using ACR then the 'Invert' function, but it's not straightforward and you need a lot of faith that it's going to work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted October 16, 2020 Share #108 Posted October 16, 2020 vor 8 Minuten schrieb 250swb: You simply have to be sensible with your scanner workflow. If you have a roll of 36 scan them all at a lower resolution and without any dust removal etc, it's good enough for them to be evaluated and doesn't take long. That is your digital contact sheet of thumbnails to save in a folder. ... Color Perfect is good and so is Negative Lab Pro although this is a 'Lightroom only' plugin. There are workarounds in Photoshop using ACR then the 'Invert' function, but it's not straightforward and you need a lot of faith that it's going to work. Thank you for the workflow suggestions which sound reasonable not to keep all 36 pictures in decent quality and therefore save time and only scan the best 4-8. I recently switched to Capture One and did not have the Lightroom/Photoshop subscription anymore. Maybe I need to find out if scanning without scratch and dust removal is the way to go and then edit in CaptureONE. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Robinson Posted October 17, 2020 Share #109 Posted October 17, 2020 Here's a tip. If you have a film scanner of any description (including flatbeds with film scanning option), Vuescan is an excellent choice of software, albeit requiring some time spent learning the various settings. If you don't have a film scanner, so opt to photograph the negatives with a camera and are thinking about how to convert them to positives, Vuescan is also an option. You can create a folder with the shots of the negatives (preferably saved in raw format) and then point Vuescan at it. It will read in the files and convert them to positive, then save to an output of your choice (I chose TIFF/RAW). I have tested this using a Leica SL on a Leica BEOON copy stand with Micro-Nikkor 3.5/55 but other options are also available. You need a good light source underneath and decent macro lens. Any reasonable mirrorless camera with an adapter for a manual-focus macro lens should be good. The output from Vuescan can then be read back into whatever raw converter you are using for more processing (I prefer Capture One). If you want, you can also do most of the processing in Vuescan by previewing each image and adjusting crop, exposure etc which is a reasonable option if you don't have a raw converter to hand. In this case you can save as TIFF, JPEG etc. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayD28 Posted November 9, 2020 Share #110 Posted November 9, 2020 On 10/15/2020 at 3:04 PM, jwr50 said: I've been using the new (really, updated) Plustek 120 Pro for about a month now. I've been scanning both 35mm and 120 film using Silverfast Ai Studio, and I can say that I have been getting excellent scan results -- as good or better than I used to get on my old Nikon Coolscan. It's slow, but that tends to be the nature of hi res scanning anyway. In my view, short of a drum scanner, the Plustek 120 Pro is probably the best that's out there now. May I ask where you bought the scanner. I just looked at BH and they don't care the 120 Pro nor the 120 (which I'm fairly certain the did in the past). Do you use Silverfast for all your adjustment or do you tweak with Silverfast and finish in Photoshop or LR? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwr50 Posted November 9, 2020 Share #111 Posted November 9, 2020 (edited) 13 hours ago, RayD28 said: May I ask where you bought the scanner. I just looked at BH and they don't care the 120 Pro nor the 120 (which I'm fairly certain the did in the past). Do you use Silverfast for all your adjustment or do you tweak with Silverfast and finish in Photoshop or LR? I bought my Plustek 120 Pro through Amazon -- it's the only place I could find it in September. I've scanned quite a few 35mm and 120 negatives and have been quite pleased with the results, although it is slow. I scan using Silverfast Ai Studio, which comes bundled with he 120 Pro. For 120 negatives, I typically scan at 5300 res, with USM, iSRD and multi-exposure settings turned on, and I'll use similar settings for 35mm scans. I'll do any other post-processing adjustments in Lightroom. That workflow has proved to be fairly efficient for me. I recently compared 120 scans from my Epson V850 flatbed with scans of the same images from the Plustek 120 Pro. I use Silverfast Ai Studio with both scanners. Both will give you quality scans, but the Plustek 120 Pro appeared to have a slight edge over the V850 in terms of overall image quality (due mainly to the higher resolution, I believe), although the V850 is definitely faster on batch scans. The film holders on the 120 Pro are definitely superior to the flimsy film holders on Epson V850. I'll see if I can find some time later to post some side-by-side comparisons of Plustek 120 Pro scans versus the Epson V850 scans (although since the comparison scans were 120 film, I'll have to convert to jpgs and downsize for the Internet). Edited November 9, 2020 by jwr50 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 9, 2020 Share #112 Posted November 9, 2020 I think you'll find that multi pass settings are a waste of time, just go for a low contrast scan without any clipping that can be finished in Lightroom. USM is also far, far more sophisticated in Lightroom, and iSRD can actually degrade the image, if possible use a can of compressed air to get rid of dust instead. Your scan speed will also be much faster and with only a slight increase in post processing time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
convexferret Posted November 9, 2020 Share #113 Posted November 9, 2020 I'll not give an opinion on scanners but I save a lot of time by only scanning the good shots on a roll, usually 10-20%. To make that easy I use a lightbox, transparent negative sleeves, and the FilmLab app on my iPad. It takes about 10s to produce a good contact sheet which I then open in Apple Photos and using the pencil, mark up exactly as I used to do with real pencils. I then leave this open on screen as I'm scanning as a guide as to which to scan. I also make sure that I write the filename of the contact sheet image on the negative sleeve. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted November 9, 2020 Share #114 Posted November 9, 2020 vor 5 Minuten schrieb convexferret: I'll not give an opinion on scanners but I save a lot of time by only scanning the good shots on a roll, usually 10-20%. To make that easy I use a lightbox, transparent negative sleeves, and the FilmLab app on my iPad. It takes about 10s to produce a good contact sheet which I then open in Apple Photos and using the pencil, mark up exactly as I used to do with real pencils. I then leave this open on screen as I'm scanning as a guide as to which to scan. I also make sure that I write the filename of the contact sheet image on the negative sleeve. That sounds like a good approach. Would it be possible to use the iPad as a light box and create a contact sheet with the iPhone. I like the idea to only scan the very good ones - at least with a high res setting. I have also read that some people scan all film negatives low res and then decide which ones would be needed full res. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted November 9, 2020 Share #115 Posted November 9, 2020 vor 11 Minuten schrieb 250swb: I think you'll find that multi pass settings are a waste of time, just go for a low contrast scan without any clipping that can be finished in Lightroom. USM is also far, far more sophisticated in Lightroom, and iSRD can actually degrade the image, if possible use a can of compressed air to get rid of dust instead. Your scan speed will also be much faster and with only a slight increase in post processing time What does USM stand for? Is it also available in Capture ONE? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 9, 2020 Share #116 Posted November 9, 2020 Un-sharp mask, sharpening. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted November 9, 2020 Share #117 Posted November 9, 2020 (edited) Ah- ok. Thanks. Edited November 9, 2020 by Rokkor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwr50 Posted November 9, 2020 Share #118 Posted November 9, 2020 5 hours ago, Rokkor said: I have also read that some people scan all film negatives low res and then decide which ones would be needed full res. When you do a batch scan in Silverfast, you begin with a low res prescan of all the frames and then you select (or de-select) the frames on which you want to do a full scan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted November 9, 2020 Share #119 Posted November 9, 2020 (edited) vor 17 Minuten schrieb jwr50: When you do a batch scan in Silverfast, you begin with a low res prescan of all the frames and then you select (or de-select) the frames on which you want to do a full scan. That makes sense - thanks. In case you have a batch scanner. Plustek 8200i or Reflecta Crystalscan 7200 need to be manually supplied with each frame. Edited November 9, 2020 by Rokkor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokkor Posted December 2, 2020 Share #120 Posted December 2, 2020 By now I could get hold of a 10T Reflecta scanner. It is quite ok in terms of output with some 80s/90s software flashback charme. It takes a while for a good scan and pictures are a bit grainy. I am not 100% convinced yet with the overall experience. Having said this, I was looking again at the Beoon option. Those seem rare to find these days. Is there something simliar that is equally compact? There are some people using enlargers, but those need a lot of space. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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