Ecar Posted August 3, 2017 Share #21 Â Posted August 3, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Recent (somewhat) related discussion here: Â https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/274110-bw-uv-pro-premium-anti-fungus-light/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 3, 2017 Posted August 3, 2017 Hi Ecar, Take a look here Summicron 50mm disaster. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tobey bilek Posted August 3, 2017 Share #22  Posted August 3, 2017 Decades back there was an article about a Japanese collector/user in Leica Photography.  All equipment was kept in glass boxes with humidity control  when not in use.  Like people,  lenses can have two things wrong at the same time, in your case fungus and separation.  I read online years back Leica will not clean fungus from a lens and will not even take it into their shop. Remember,  if it is on the internet it must be true.  UV filtration may be from the front side and UV MAY pass from the rear.   Worth a try.  Sunlight has large UV component.  Place on window sill.   If separation is just around the edges,  just watch for progress.  Fungus is totally different. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko.Fe. Posted August 3, 2017 Share #23  Posted August 3, 2017 Leitz lenses with fungus and separation are common items for sale and it is not stopping sellers from asking of premium price.  I had fungus in Leitz lenses of similar or older age. It is common and often nothing catastrophic. One, three spots, killed by Leica described mix and procedure are not going to change lens performance. I also had two Leitz lenses with visible separation and not just on the edges to the lens block barrel. It was not a problem in 99%.  From so called "Leica M2 service" document:  "Fungus, which attacks some optical glasses in tropical environments, may be removed as follows:  a. MaterialHydrogen-peroxide, 3% solutionAmmonia, 28% solutionAlcohol, 180 proofDistilled water  b. Removing Fungus.  (1) Just prior to use, mix 10-parts hydrogen peroxide with 3-parts ammonia solution.(2) Moisten the lens surface with the solution and allow it to stand for several minutes.(3) Wipe the lens surface with a clean piece of lens tissue.(4) Thoroughly clean the lens surface with distilled water.(5) If additional cleaning is required, wipe the surface with alcohol and dry with clean lenstissue.  NOTE: Fungus which has remained on an optical surface for a prolonged period etchesthe glass. In this instance, the entire lens must be returned to the manufacturerfor replacement of the damaged element." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frase Posted August 3, 2017 Share #24 Â Posted August 3, 2017 You need to find out if its fungus or separation, if it is fungus why did your camera repair man not just clean the elements? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob L Posted August 3, 2017 Share #25 Â Posted August 3, 2017 +1 for Jon Van Stelten in Colorado john@focalpointlens.com He will tell you that if you put it out in the sun, it will kill the fungus, but that fungus excretes chemicals that if left unresolved will etch the surface of the glass. He can also most likely re-cement your elements for $300 +/- Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted August 3, 2017 Share #26 Â Posted August 3, 2017 Malcolm Taylor sorted out my 5cm Elmar 3.5 which had separation, he can do that. But from the US its a bit difficult. As said before he has no email but answers phone calls promptly. Â Gerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzo Lietti Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share #27 Â Posted August 4, 2017 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here what john van stalten said: "I am sure I can bring this back from the dead! Â However, it could run from $250 to $500??? Â I will be able to tell once I see it! Â If you refuse it will only cost return shipping! Â Most 50 Summicrons run $395 for the problems your tech has written down. Â However, there are some issues that cannot be dealt with and that is whited dots on element #3, as that element is high in heavy metal content and the spots are from moisture seeping thru the coating pores and causing corrosion resulting in pitting! Â Those spots rarely affect the performance and most do not have this issue!" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
01af Posted August 4, 2017 Share #28  Posted August 4, 2017 It's a common misconception that UV light wouldn't penetrate lenses. Of course it does! Otherwise, UV filters wouldn't exist. In fact, optical glass as well as modern coatings have low UV transmission—but still far from zero. The intensity of the UV radiation in UV boxes used for medical or industrial purposes is more than strong enough to kill any fungus inside a lens.  But then, it wouldn't really help. The fungus would be dead and grow no further, but the damage done will be still there. The fungus doesn't need to be killed, it needs to be removed. And when it's the cement within a cemented group that's affected then it will become prohibitively expensive. If, however, the fungus is on one of the glass surfaces and not in the cement then cleaning it might be worthwhile. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lorenzo Lietti Posted August 9, 2017 Author Share #29 Â Posted August 9, 2017 thank you all for the advice...here's an update...after a few email exchanges I sent it off to Don (DAG Camera Repair)...crossing my fingers that 1. it can be repaired and 2. it doesn't cost an arm and a leg...stay tuned Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham (G4FUJ) Posted August 11, 2017 Share #30 Â Posted August 11, 2017 thank you all for the advice...here's an update...after a few email exchanges I sent it off to Don (DAG Camera Repair)... I hope it all works out for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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