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I still have aways to go. I shot a few today but maybe because it's cloudy, they weren't terribly effective. I probably could have come close to replicating the effect with LR on a regular picture. Will keep trying! thanks again....

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waiting in line

 

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talking to a cat

 

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While most was conspiring against me, I had to have another go at this.

Clouds were moving, trees blowing, sun was intermittent.

Your fault RK+Q.

Q with 720Nm filter.

Gary

 

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Q with my wife

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While most was conspiring against me, I had to have another go at this.

Clouds were moving, trees blowing, sun was intermittent.

Your fault RK+Q.

Q with 720Nm filter.

Gary

B)

Some People say movement does not hurt. ;)

The results look quite good, especialially the power pole.

 

Here some movement from me:

(F 1.7, 1/40 sec, ISO 1600, stabilization on)

 

 

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Edited by RK+Q
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A question RK.

The I/R filter, it is 720Nm, or something else?

With exposure times I find I cannot get anywhere near your settings.

Mine tend to be ISO1600, and usually f5.6 or f8. Shutter speed then tends to be seconds, usually 2 - 4 seconds, sometimes more.

We are in autumn here at the moment, and the sun is low so maybe that accounts for the longer times?
Gary

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religious instruction

 

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A question RK.

The I/R filter, it is 720Nm, or something else?

With exposure times I find I cannot get anywhere near your settings.

Mine tend to be ISO1600, and usually f5.6 or f8. Shutter speed then tends to be seconds, usually 2 - 4 seconds, sometimes more.

We are in autumn here at the moment, and the sun is low so maybe that accounts for the longer times?

Gary

 

 

My IR-Filter is „HOYA INFRARED (R72)“ and it is a 720nm-filter.

On the most of my pictures I had bright sunshine and midday, our sun stands very high at midday.

Here on the german eastcoast we have spring/near summer, the green is "exploding" here...

 

without Filter: F11, ISO 400, 1/500s

with Filter: F11, ISO 400, 3s

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Edited by RK+Q
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My IR-Filter is „HOYA INFRARED (R72)“ and it is a 720nm-filter.

On the most of my pictures I had bright sunshine and midday, our sun stands very high at midday.

Here on the german eastcoast we have spring/near summer, the green is "exploding" here...

I have the same filter on order. Thanks so much for the direct comparison. I’m looking forward to exploring the new wavelength.

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My IR-Filter is „HOYA INFRARED (R72)“ and it is a 720nm-filter.

On the most of my pictures I had bright sunshine and midday, our sun stands very high at midday.

Here on the german eastcoast we have spring/near summer, the green is "exploding" here...

 

without Filter: F11, ISO 400, 1/500s

with Filter: F11, ISO 400, 3s

Thank you RK.

Gary

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so, I think I'm starting to get with the infrared program. Seems better to shoot jpegs in B&W than convert RAW to B&W. Is that what other folks do?

self-criticism: need to include more sky to create the greatest contrast, and need to go out more in mid-day sun. these were shot just now in setting sun.

inviting other criticism, please. 

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Edited by bags27
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I think we both suffer from "insufficient" sunlight Bags. RK has "bright sunshine and midday, our sun stands very high at midday" and I think this is the key. That and as you have already worked out, sky, and foliage.

In my case I have sky (occasionally) but we are going into winter so foliage is becoming scarce.

Keep trying.

Gary

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I think we both suffer from "insufficient" sunlight Bags. RK has "bright sunshine and midday, our sun stands very high at midday" and I think this is the key. That and as you have already worked out, sky, and foliage.

In my case I have sky (occasionally) but we are going into winter so foliage is becoming scarce.

Keep trying.

Gary

 

In the UK there is a very good magazine 'Black + White Photography' which this month (June - not the May issue on their web site https://www.blackandwhitephotographymag.co.uk/) has an article on Digital Infrared. Unfortunately the article is not available on their website and clearly I cannot publish it. But the key points made seem to be:

 

1. If you have an old camera get it converted for infrared and then exposure times will be much the same as a normal camera.

2. If using a filter use RAW and set up a custom white balance to get rid of the red colouration - or most of it.

3. Alternatively use monochrome mode and JPEG.

4. Infrared focuses on a slightly different point to visible light so stop down to f/8.

5. Water and blue sky record as very dark tones as little IR is reflected whereas foliage and living plants reflect a lot and therefore are very light.

6. Bright sunlight is ideal because the IR radiation is high, especially the harsh light of midday.

7. Bad weather wont give 'traditional' IR images but IR will transform a grey and lifeless landscape.

8. Use a lens hood to reduce flare and some lenses exhibit 'hot spots'.

9. Open RAW image and use the Tone Curve sliders to adjust contrast and exposure, desaturate the image to reduce false colour Photoshop/Silver Efex Pro.

10. To enhance the highlight glow make a duplicate layer then filter>distort>diffuse glow. Adjust the opacity of the duplicate layer to about 15-20%

 

I haven't really experimented with IR or this advice but having seen what can be done I will - when the Highlands of Scotland are next bathed in high intensity sunshine ...

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I am slightly puzzled by no mention or evidence of focus shift. With my M8 there was a lot of guesswork with setting the distance and making corrections. Is 28mm the reason for superb definition?

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