Baxter Posted June 18, 2007 Share #21 Posted June 18, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Tim In terms of rescuing your film processed by Lab, I suggest using Neat-Image (or Noise Ninja). It is great at reducing grain in controlled manner. I have problems with grain Aliasing when scanning colour neg film on my Flextight - Neat Image works a treat on the Auto setting. I have demonstrated to a friend with HP5 who was amazed at effect it has. You might need to rescan that film, as others have said, the Epson 750 is highly regarded. Longer term issue - My experience has been like others with Lab service on B+W D+P. They use bog std dev agitated with nitrogen burst. Whilst DIY at kitchen sink is not very interesting, it does give flex to use far better developers. APUG.org offers immeasurable info on film developers. I now use Pyrocat HD in a Jobo and get wonderful results. It is compensating so big range, the stain helps mask grain and chemicals also provide acutance for sharpness - having cake and eating it. Alternatively XP2 works wonders and is easy to scan..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 18, 2007 Posted June 18, 2007 Hi Baxter, Take a look here Time for a whine. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
gduveen Posted June 18, 2007 Share #22 Posted June 18, 2007 Tim - I've been using Campkins in Cambridge who send the film to a local lab who produce contact sheets, 6x4 prints, and a scan to CD in either JPEG or TIFF. They offer a 2 day or 5 day service. This is taken with my M5 using Ilford Delta 100. Gerard Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/26907-time-for-a-whine/?do=findComment&comment=284376'>More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted June 18, 2007 Share #23 Posted June 18, 2007 Hi Tim, Well, if it makes you feel any better, I received my 28 Summicron back after six plus weeks away and Leica coded it with a 24mm mount!!!! The focus is better but now it's back off to the never never land of the red dot. I really can't believe this company sometimes..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted June 18, 2007 Share #24 Posted June 18, 2007 Hi Tim, Well, if it makes you feel any better, I received my 28 Summicron back after six plus weeks away and Leica coded it with a 24mm mount!!!! The focus is better but now it's back off to the never never land of the red dot. I really can't believe this company sometimes..... If you haven't sent the lens off yet DON'T. Just use some lacquer thinner to clean off the present coding in the spots needed and recode it yourself to the 28 markings. The hardest part of coding a lens is making the indents where the paint goes. If you have a mount with the indents already there it isn't a problem filling them in with some flat white and flat black paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott kirkpatrick Posted June 18, 2007 Share #25 Posted June 18, 2007 My story is cheering up a bit, too. My 28/2.8-asph reached Washington DC only 5 working days after i had left town, but it is now in the hands of people who can send me a tracking number, and are shipping it on to Boston, where I will rendezvous with it in another two weeks. scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted June 19, 2007 Share #26 Posted June 19, 2007 If you haven't sent the lens off yet DON'T. Just use some lacquer thinner to clean off the present coding in the spots needed and recode it yourself to the 28 markings. The hardest part of coding a lens is making the indents where the paint goes. If you have a mount with the indents already there it isn't a problem filling them in with some flat white and flat black paint. No, they put a 24 MOUNT on the lens - it brings up the 24/35 framelines instead of the 28. Wish I could just remove paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted June 19, 2007 Share #27 Posted June 19, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) No, they put a 24 MOUNT on the lens - it brings up the 24/35 framelines instead of the 28. Wish I could just remove paint. Aah right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 19, 2007 Share #28 Posted June 19, 2007 Tim, FWIW, dive in on the BW development. I have, and I haven't done any for six or seven years now But it's pretty easy, to tell the truth. The Epson 750 is on its way to me, too. Given what good scans cost, I figure it will pay for itself relatively quickly! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmsr Posted June 19, 2007 Share #29 Posted June 19, 2007 I also agree on just doing the development yourself. You can buy EVERYTHING that you need to do B&W manually for under $150. I would still like to find one of the more automated Jobo developers, but have missed out on the ones recently available. I am sitting here scans a roll of Plus X that was developed very nicely at the local Pro Lab, except for the #%^**($## scratches. I am just tired of retouching scratched negs from people who don't really care. Today was the final straw to push me over the edge. I am starting on the next roll. I scan on a Nikon SuperCoolScan 5000 ED with very nice results. I also have an Epson 4990 flatbed, which is my workhorse for normal office scanning. The Epson does not even come close to the Nikon in results. Get yourself a 5000 or 9000 Nikon depending on the format of film that you will use. It is well worth it. The Imacons are more than I wanted to spend on a scanner, and do not have digital ICE which does wonders on C41 type films for dust or scratches. Best, Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted June 19, 2007 Author Share #30 Posted June 19, 2007 Thanks for all these various pieces of advice everyone. I can see I'm going to have to get my fingers wet again! I think the lab did a pretty cruddy job on my film and scanning so there's only one sensible route to go... it's just a question of which scanner. I know the Nikons have supposedly superior results to the Epsons but doing a whole roll sounds deathly. Has anyone got any experience of the Plustek gear? @ Charles, I simply cannot believe they have put the wrong mount on your lens. It is the worst incompetent repair story I've yet heard. How utterly utterly astonishing. I would write personally to that new dude who runs the whole monkey barrel and make sure he knows! Best to all Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harmsr Posted June 19, 2007 Share #31 Posted June 19, 2007 Tim, I use the Nikon in single pass mode and 8 bit to basically get proofs first. This is very fast. For those that are keepers, I go back & scan them individually with all the settings adjusted and in 16 bit / 16 pass / 4000 dpi. You can put a strip of 6 in at a time, and let it run. Most of the time you will probably cut your negs into strips of 5 so that they fit a standard page sleeve. Actually very easy and fast. Do not try to scan the entire roll as if they were keepers, that does take forever and uses up a lot of hard disk space fast. Best, Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted June 19, 2007 Author Share #32 Posted June 19, 2007 Tim, I use the Nikon in single pass mode and 8 bit to basically get proofs first. This is very fast. For those that are keepers, I go back & scan them individually with all the settings adjusted and in 16 bit / 16 pass / 4000 dpi. You can put a strip of 6 in at a time, and let it run. Most of the time you will probably cut your negs into strips of 5 so that they fit a standard page sleeve. Actually very easy and fast. Do not try to scan the entire roll as if they were keepers, that does take forever and uses up a lot of hard disk space fast. Best, Ray Good advice Ray, thanks: it seems wise not to ask the lab to do the initial scans, or even to produce any small prints, since they seem mostly to handle negatives with gloves made of sandpaper! Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted June 19, 2007 Share #33 Posted June 19, 2007 Thanks for all these various pieces of advice everyone. I can see I'm going to have to get my fingers wet again! I think the lab did a pretty cruddy job on my film and scanning so there's only one sensible route to go... it's just a question of which scanner. I know the Nikons have supposedly superior results to the Epsons but doing a whole roll sounds deathly. Has anyone got any experience of the Plustek gear? @ Charles, I simply cannot believe they have put the wrong mount on your lens. It is the worst incompetent repair story I've yet heard. How utterly utterly astonishing. I would write personally to that new dude who runs the whole monkey barrel and make sure he knows! Best to all Tim I know, amazing. My dealer was flabbergasted and called leica repair on the spot. They said they'd "see" what they can do. Just not good enough in my mind. I will be writing today. As far as scanners go, I have an Imacon 646 and don't regret the investment for a second. But I also have a lot of film archives and still shoot a lot of medium format so it gets a work out. Might be too much machine for your needs though. And, yes, the Imacons don't have ICE but they have their own spotting program. Maybe not as good, but ICE really affects the whole image overall as far as detail and sharpness so is kind of a falseness. Best is too keep the film and scanner clean (dustcover and regular maintanence). The 343 runs about $5000 USD, though sometimes refurbs can be found for less (I got my 646 refurb for $7300 - I had a 343 before that which I sold easily). What sold me on the Imacons was their speed compared to the Nikons, plus the ability to keep the film flat (esp for MF). Not sure about batch scanning - I think one has to move up to the 848/949 for that. I had a friend who got a Nikon 5000 to try and circumvent our (very good) lab's scanning but just found it to slow and labor intensive (he's a wedding photog). Best to get a scanner to do individual scans I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted June 19, 2007 Share #34 Posted June 19, 2007 I also had a problem, although not quite the magnitude of yours, in that I sent my camera away to have the rangefinder adjusted. Leica chose to keep it for weeks, as this was during their discovery phase of the infrared problem, and when they finally sent it back, corrected for infrared, the rangefinder had not been touched. I tried to get them to promise me a quick turn-around if I sent it in again, but they didn't go for it, so I adjusted it myself, all three settings. Something really needs to change there. When they make a mistake, the second time should be as fast as humanly possible, and with double the checks of a normal repair, IMO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlesphoto99 Posted June 19, 2007 Share #35 Posted June 19, 2007 Carsten, I agree. And NJ is even worse than Solms in many regards. It's too bad Leica doesn't have more competition, but not even sure that would do the trick. I think it's just an old German mindset that may never change. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvaubel Posted June 19, 2007 Share #36 Posted June 19, 2007 Haven't developed any film in over a year but I cannot conceive of sending B&W to a lab. It is soooo easy to develop film. And probably absolutely necessary in the long run. I keep all my stuff in one small box under the sink and can easily develop a couple of rolls of film in an evening while surfing the net or doing whatever else I want to do. You don't need a darkroom, a kitchen is fine and a shower for drying film. With a Coolscan, we should be able to do film for as long as its made. I mentioned that I haven't done any film in a year or so. That is not because of a lack of interest in film as it has been sorting out issues with my RD1 and now the M8. There are so many interesting issues with the M8, for instance backfocus, that effect both digital and film, that I think of my efforts as more of photography issues in general than just pure digital. I am sure I will get back to film eventually.....hmmm, in fact don't I have a couple of rolls of triX in the freezer that I could...... Rex Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted June 19, 2007 Author Share #37 Posted June 19, 2007 Haven't developed any film in over a year but I cannot conceive of sending B&W to a lab. It is soooo easy to develop film. And probably absolutely necessary in the long run. I keep all my stuff in one small box under the sink and can easily develop a couple of rolls of film in an evening while surfing the net or doing whatever else I want to do. You don't need a darkroom, a kitchen is fine and a shower for drying film. With a Coolscan, we should be able to do film for as long as its made. I mentioned that I haven't done any film in a year or so. That is not because of a lack of interest in film as it has been sorting out issues with my RD1 and now the M8. There are so many interesting issues with the M8, for instance backfocus, that effect both digital and film, that I think of my efforts as more of photography issues in general than just pure digital. I am sure I will get back to film eventually.....hmmm, in fact don't I have a couple of rolls of triX in the freezer that I could...... Rex I have a significant problem: most of my house is made of glass and there is only one room that could be dark enough but then only at night! I am really surprised at how few labs do B&W developing these days. I might have to finally join a local camera club so I can use their darkroom... Now get to that freezer! t Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry Posted June 19, 2007 Share #38 Posted June 19, 2007 I have a significant problem: most of my house is made of glass and there is only one room that could be dark enough but then only at night! I am really surprised at how few labs do B&W developing these days. I might have to finally join a local camera club so I can use their darkroom... Now get to that freezer! t Tim, Sorry, but that's no excuse -- you can load the film reels in a changing bag. Larry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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