Jeff S Posted December 3, 2016 Share #21 Posted December 3, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Buy the 90-280 and then the wide-zoom when it comes out. Your lens kit will be complete. The wide zoom is anticipated near 2018. By that time, Neil will have switched systems 4 times. http://www.reddotforum.com/content/2016/09/leica-releases-sl-lens-roadmap-highlighting-four-primes-and-one-zoom/ But Neil should note that the native SL lenses do have the advantage of AF and weather sealing (and some with IS). Conversely, they're on the large/heavy side.....and the line is slow to emerge like the S line, but hopefully without the reliability issues (so far, so good). Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 3, 2016 Posted December 3, 2016 Hi Jeff S, Take a look here New SL for Christmas :). I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ramarren Posted December 3, 2016 Share #22 Posted December 3, 2016 ... Somebody above mentioned adapters; I'd avoid the SL/M + M/R combo - that caused some physical vignetting where the Novoflex SL (TL) / R adapter did not (specifically in reference to the Leica 105-280mm R). I've not had a chance to try the Leica SL / R adapter, but if I had alot of R lenses or had a strong interest in that area, I'd probably go with the Leica R/SL adapter despite the hefty price tag. Having full EXIF for ROM based lenses would be nice (such as select focal length when using a zoom lens - I believe this is supported the Leica R / SL adapter), and I also would not have to go into the menu select which R lens is attached -- something I often forget to do There are plusses and minuses with all the adapters so you should pick whatever adaptation works best for your uses: The two adapter combo gives you access to all the R lenses AND M lenses, the vignetting is only apparent with certain long lenses or extreme lens extension (as in the Focusing Bellows R near full extension). Yes, you have to set the R lens profile manually (and the M lens profile if the lens is not coded) but with fw2.0 and later, you can limit the menu choices of lenses to just the ones you have which makes this manual selection process very fast. The R Adapter SL cannot be used with one and two cam R lenses (the cams on these older lenses will damage the ROM contacts in the adapter). With R ROM lenses, the lens and profile are automatically recognized; with three-cam lenses, you have to set it manually. The Novoflex (and other third party) adapters for M and R mounts can be used with any lens but you don't get the lens profiles. For some lenses, this is a distinct disadvantage. When I acquired the SL in November 2015, fitting R lenses required the two Leica adapter stack because neither the R Adapter SL or the Novoflex adapters were available just yet. None of my lenses (R lenses from 15mm to 250mm) show any vignetting, the Focusing Bellows R with 50mm lens on it does when I'm out around 2.7:1 magnification. None of my R lenses is a ROM lens, most (all but the 50/2 and 180/2.8) are three cam configuration, so there's little practical benefit to buying yet another adapter for me just yet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IkarusJohn Posted December 3, 2016 Share #23 Posted December 3, 2016 Having only one R lens, the stacked option works best for me. The M adapter reads the lens code from the M lens, and when I add the R lens with adapter, it defaults to the one R lens I have (the last one I used ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynp Posted December 3, 2016 Share #24 Posted December 3, 2016 My subjects are mostly static and I am happy with the S-Zoom on my SL, I use it for product photography them the movements are not needed. The S Macro I have is not the best among the Macros, just a bad copy but it makes the work done. The S-Summicron is brilliant on my S2, I am struggling with it on the SL. I mostly use the SL on my Makro rig for composite shooting and for portraits I use my Rollei 80mm Ltm and Konica 50 /1.2. Unfortunately I sold my three Noctis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynp Posted December 3, 2016 Share #25 Posted December 3, 2016 My S180 with the ELPRO is very capable lens on my SL, although the Af is slow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meerec Posted December 4, 2016 Share #26 Posted December 4, 2016 So after a whole bunch of deliberation I have decided to buy the ugly camera after all. My plan is to use it with a Noctilux 0.95. I looked on the Arte De Mano website and they have a half case for the SL that also has the battery compartment access (sweet) I like there Burgundy colour the same that I had on my M so will get one of those as well. I have a few questions; I plan to buy the body in Scotland along with a new Noctilux...... would you advise to get a extended protection plan? Has anyone used S lenses on the SL and if so would it be worth getting an S to SL adapter? My current M lens are just a 35mm f1.4 and a 50mm Elmar 2........what would you guys recommend as a SL lens? Does the SL come with a built in Diopter or should I buy one of those as well How long does one battery last? AcraSwiss tripod plate recommendations?? Any other tips or needs that I should get?Later Neil Welcome to the club. It was my Xmas present one year ago exactly :-) Buy 90-280 now and 75 summicron-SL in June 2017. Diopter built in already, you get you've paid for ! lol Buy an extra battery, never needed more than two. RRS for arca-Swiss plates – I'm re-using an old L plate from my canon 5d3 that fits and a simple flat lens plate from my 300/2.8 lens. The former good for video work, the small lens plate for any other work on the tripod. I question the half case – in my mind completely unnecessary and makes the ergonomics worse. Buy a different strap to what's provided. I recommend a strap that is 100% leather, no plastic or metal parts. I use TieMeUp from a guy in Cyprus, wonderfully soft and solid. Can wear the SL on my neck, across body, or wrap around my arm, all in one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenw0lf Posted December 4, 2016 Share #27 Posted December 4, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) My subjects are mostly static and I am happy with the S-Zoom on my SL, I use it for product photography them the movements are not needed. The S Macro I have is not the best among the Macros, just a bad copy but it makes the work done. The S-Summicron is brilliant on my S2, I am struggling with it on the SL. I mostly use the SL on my Makro rig for composite shooting and for portraits I use my Rollei 80mm Ltm and Konica 50 /1.2. Unfortunately I sold my three Noctis. How do you adapt the Rollei 80mm lens ? (On the S, on the SL I assume you use the Fotodiox adapter to Nikon and then to SL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phongph Posted December 4, 2016 Share #28 Posted December 4, 2016 Welcome to the club. It was my Xmas present one year ago exactly :-) Buy 90-280 now and 75 summicron-SL in June 2017. Diopter built in already, you get you've paid for ! lol Buy an extra battery, never needed more than two. RRS for arca-Swiss plates – I'm re-using an old L plate from my canon 5d3 that fits and a simple flat lens plate from my 300/2.8 lens. The former good for video work, the small lens plate for any other work on the tripod. I question the half case – in my mind completely unnecessary and makes the ergonomics worse. Buy a different strap to what's provided. I recommend a strap that is 100% leather, no plastic or metal parts. I use TieMeUp from a guy in Cyprus, wonderfully soft and solid. Can wear the SL on my neck, across body, or wrap around my arm, all in one. Hi! It is very usefull advice for new SL user! Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #29 Posted December 4, 2016 Yes, it's true that there's no auto stop down. It doesn't need one, as it's not a reflex camera. The EVF auto adjusts for brightness, so you get a clear, bright image in the view finder at the actual aperture selected, read off the sensor. If you want the final image at the exposure, without that brightness adjustment, you need to press the fn button on the front - then you get the actual exposure through the viewfinder. I like this feature as it enables you to use the camera in manual without Auto-ISO - exposure becomes intuitive. The only problem is you have to press the fn button - a number of us have asked for this to be a fixed menu option in the next update. John I'm trying to get my head around this but cant. Can you put it in Roughneck terms please Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #30 Posted December 4, 2016 I had the Arti di Mano 1/2 case of the SL and added alot of girth to the SL's grip and it felt too big / too fat. I'm 6' tall, average size hands. I much prefer the SL with the RRS base plate. that's ~.5" of height and gives the grip enough extra length for my last two fingers. The RRS base plate is very nicely made and follows the contours of the SL camera body extremely well. Most of my M lenses look out of proportion with the SL body (35 FLE, 50 APO, etc.); lenses like the 75 Lux and 90 APO fit SL rather well in terms of aesthetics & proportions. In actual use, having the EVF and ease of focus trumps the visuals aesthetics of the lens on the camera SL camera body. The 135 APO looks silly on the SL (in my opinion), but I use that combo alot. The SL's EVF is its stand out feature in my opinion. The SL's battery life is okay, but not great. I'd guess total click range of ~250-300 for most people. My M-P 240 & M-M 246 seem to last forever on their batteries (like 750 clicks per charge). The SL with the RRS base plate isn't too far off from being Leica S body sized, so I think for the most part the SL would feel fairly similar to a Leica S body grip / feel. I've owned the Leica S, so I'm familiar with its size, etc. The 70S would probably feel pretty good. The 120S would probably seem a bit nose heavy. 30-90S will feel heavy for sure. Given the size of the S lenses, I don't think I'd buy any just to use on the SL. The native SL lenses have much faster auto-focus, and the zooms have stabilization which is really nice. If I still had an S system, I would buy the SL / S adapter. Being able to leverage the lenses on both systems (S and SL) would be worthwhile endeavor. Thanks for the heads up on the Arte De Mano case...................I had a funny feeling yesterday when I looked at it on there website that it might make the camera chunky. I have 3 S lenses 70,120, and 30............my 70 is non CS so thinking that might be okay. My original plan is just to buy the SL to use with a 0.95 Noctilux as a walk about camera............that is still my plan, If I want to go and shoot Landscape/Studio then I will use my S007 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #31 Posted December 4, 2016 I have the S adaptor for my SL. I think it's worth the investment. The 120mm is stunning on the SL. The lenses I have used on the SL (35, 70 and 120) all work well. Handling is good as the SL handles well with larger lenses anyway. Focus is slower than the S007. OTOH you can focus anywhere in the frame so accurate off centre focusing is easy. As to what SL lenses to get? Depends on you. I have both zooms and they're wonderful but big like S lenses. Ramarren's solution of the 90-280 and the 16-36 might be a good one but we don't know the delivery date of the wide yet. Personally I'll probably stick to my WATE as I am happy with MF for a wide lens and it's so small. The SL 50mm Summilux has been getting weird press. I haven't seen any comentary from anyone who actually likes the SL system yet so I'm reserving judgement. Leica don't generally make sub standard lenses and I can't see them dropping the ball on this one because it's important to the system. We'll see. Personally I think the SL is the Leica where a zoom makes sense. The 24-90 is excellent so give it some consideration. Having the two zooms and a couple of select M lenses works for me. I also use the Canon TS lenses extensively on the SL. Most M lenses work well on the SL and they're a doodle to focus. You will use what you have, plus your Noctilux when you get it. The Noct is extra special on the SL. I also use my 90mm AA and WATE on the SL. I don't tend to use my 24, 28 or 135mm lenses as those are covered with the zooms and about the same apertures. I tried my 50mm 'lux M on the Sl for the first time last week and I actually really liked it. Very different from the Noctilux. I'm hoping the SL50 is great (and I think it will be) but if it isn't the M lux will be more than fine. I have the RRS dedicated SL baseplate (and L which I usually don't use). I like it. I use tripods every day. Also it's diminished my desire for the battery grip. I don't like half cases so I just live with the ugliness. Gordon Gordon My S120 lens is my 2nd favorite lens ever (after Noctilux) so that is great news that it works well on the SL..............is the 120mm POW the same as on the S007 or is there some sort of conversion factor using S lenses on the SL?? I used to have a 21mm sumerlux that I used to be on my M 50/50 with my Noctilux. There's a bloke in Bangkok that's selling one ..........as always asking to much money but I'm sure if he really wants to sell it he would negociate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #32 Posted December 4, 2016 I don't like half cases so I just live with the ugliness. Gordon I plan to wear dark glasses and a big floppy hat, incase someone sees me with it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #33 Posted December 4, 2016 There are plusses and minuses with all the adapters so you should pick whatever adaptation works best for your uses: The two adapter combo gives you access to all the R lenses AND M lenses, the vignetting is only apparent with certain long lenses or extreme lens extension (as in the Focusing Bellows R near full extension). Yes, you have to set the R lens profile manually (and the M lens profile if the lens is not coded) but with fw2.0 and later, you can limit the menu choices of lenses to just the ones you have which makes this manual selection process very fast. The R Adapter SL cannot be used with one and two cam R lenses (the cams on these older lenses will damage the ROM contacts in the adapter). With R ROM lenses, the lens and profile are automatically recognized; with three-cam lenses, you have to set it manually. The Novoflex (and other third party) adapters for M and R mounts can be used with any lens but you don't get the lens profiles. For some lenses, this is a distinct disadvantage. When I acquired the SL in November 2015, fitting R lenses required the two Leica adapter stack because neither the R Adapter SL or the Novoflex adapters were available just yet. None of my lenses (R lenses from 15mm to 250mm) show any vignetting, the Focusing Bellows R with 50mm lens on it does when I'm out around 2.7:1 magnification. None of my R lenses is a ROM lens, most (all but the 50/2 and 180/2.8) are three cam configuration, so there's little practical benefit to buying yet another adapter for me just yet. Mate, I don't have any R lenses.................Just plan to use Noctilux for now and maybe 21mm Lux if I can make a deal with the guy in Bangkok. I will get the Leica SL to M and S to SL from the Leica store in KL when I get home next week, then if I want to play with any S lenses I can. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted December 4, 2016 Share #34 Posted December 4, 2016 John I'm trying to get my head around this but cant. Can you put it in Roughneck terms please Looking through the EVF, you will see an image 'auto-corrected' to appear at a usable level of brightness, making it easier to focus. Pressing the fn button will present the 'uncorrected' image, as it will appear when shot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #35 Posted December 4, 2016 Looking through the EVF, you will see an image 'auto-corrected' to appear at a usable level of brightness, making it easier to focus. Pressing the fn button will present the 'uncorrected' image, as it will appear when shot. Eoin The uncorrected image is basically what you will get in the DNG file..........is that right ????? Where is the FN button and is it something you need to assign in the menu?? Thanks Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynp Posted December 4, 2016 Share #36 Posted December 4, 2016 How do you adapt the Rollei 80mm lens ? (On the S, on the SL I assume you use the Fotodiox adapter to Nikon and then to SL) I use the Rollei 35RF 80mm f2.8 , made by Cosina from the optical blocks of a Rolleiflex TLR. The 40mm and 80 mm from the 35RF camera are ltm lenses and the adaptation for the SL is easy : ltm-M and M-SL adapters. It is possible to use the ltm lenses on my Actus mini view camera with the l39 front plate when we do the composite work. I did not try the S adaptation. The Rollei 80mm helicoid can be removed ( unscrewed) and theoretically I can source a special Nikon F adapter, sold together with the Rollei rf 80mm . The Nikon adapter is screwed in instead of the original helicoid and I know that it's possible to make a helicoid for the S. The 80 mm. lens shall cover the S sensor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted December 4, 2016 Share #37 Posted December 4, 2016 Gordon My S120 lens is my 2nd favorite lens ever (after Noctilux) so that is great news that it works well on the SL..............is the 120mm POW the same as on the S007 or is there some sort of conversion factor using S lenses on the SL?? I used to have a 21mm sumerlux that I used to be on my M 50/50 with my Noctilux. There's a bloke in Bangkok that's selling one ..........as always asking to much money but I'm sure if he really wants to sell it he would negociate The 120 has a bit more reach due to the smaller sensor but I still think it has the WOW factor. It's one of those lenses where you take a terrible photo and still stare at it for a few minutes because the lens draws so beautifully. That still shows on the SL. Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlashGordonPhotography Posted December 4, 2016 Share #38 Posted December 4, 2016 Eoin The uncorrected image is basically what you will get in the DNG file..........is that right ????? Where is the FN button and is it something you need to assign in the menu?? Thanks Neil What he means is you can program the EVF to show you a nice bright view all the time OR to simulate the actual exposure. So if you stop an M lens down in M mode the EVF will keep the same brightness or get dimmer/ depending on your preference. If you normally have the EVF set to show an always bright viewfinder you can select exposure preview for a single shot by pressing the Fn button, on the front of the camera, twice. Easier to do than to explain. Gordon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted December 4, 2016 Share #39 Posted December 4, 2016 pressing the Fn button, on the front of the camera, twice. Easier to do than to explain. Gordon Cheers mate.........when you say on the front is it like the Nikon's where its just sitting there in the hand grip so you can trigger it with your middle or ring finger?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter H Posted December 4, 2016 Share #40 Posted December 4, 2016 What he means is you can program the EVF to show you a nice bright view all the time OR to simulate the actual exposure. So if you stop an M lens down in M mode the EVF will keep the same brightness or get dimmer/ depending on your preference. If you normally have the EVF set to show an always bright viewfinder you can select exposure preview for a single shot by pressing the Fn button, on the front of the camera, twice. Easier to do than to explain. Gordon Is that (constant brightness) the mode you'd use for flash? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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