Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #181 Posted March 28, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) That would work. But given that most labs routinely scan entire films as well, you'd probably be best off when you just had the film developed and scanned at one go. Some labs charge per scanned frame and some offer different qualities (resolutions and depths). For your first films, select the highest quality on offer so you can see where the grain starts to become visible. This will return results you can look at within the shortest time, I think. Two afterthoughts. Some labs scan to media different from CDs, such as USB sticks or SD cards. Might be useful for large scan jobs and solid state media are more robust than CDs. Handling film is something you are not accustomed to, hence it may not be obvious that the negatives are very sensitive to fingerprints and dust. Do not ever take them out of their sleeves unless you absolutely have to. Do not ever touch the image areas with your bare fingers. Touch the edges of the strips only. But do hold them firmly or they will fall into the soup or whichever place is least suited for negatives. Phill Thats what I will do, I will add a empty SD card with the roll of film and have them scan everything for me Cheers mate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 28, 2016 Posted March 28, 2016 Hi Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS, Take a look here Leica Film Odyssey for a beginner. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
MarkP Posted March 28, 2016 Share #182 Posted March 28, 2016 Good morning Mark You mentioned something there about when you rewind the film, you cover the lens or put a lens cap on. I didn't realise that? Just as well you did or I would have just switched the leaver to R and rewind the film. Cheers Neil NEIL, THAT'S NOT FOR REWIND AS THE SHUTTER IS CLOSED DURING FILM REWIND SO YOU DO NOT NEED TO COVER THE LENS. IT'S WHEN YOU'RE WINDING A PARTLY USED FILM BACK INTO THE CAMERA TO GET THE FILM TO WHERE YOU WANT SO YOU CAN FINISH THE ROLL. YOU NEED TO AND FIRE THE SHUTTER AND WIND ON TO ADVANCE EACH FRAME. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE LENS COVERED WHEN YOU DO THIS YOU WILL DOUBLE-EXPOSE EACH FRAME. DOES THIS MAKE SENSE? MARK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #183 Posted March 28, 2016 This is what you do in KL, Neil, in Roughneck terms (I know, because I used to be one). This is your Procedure, and I hope you hold a JSA before starting, and another if there are any changes to the job as it progresses: On Saturday, after smoko, you load your film in your very nice M6 TTL. Once the film has taken up on the sprockets, you close the camera up and wind the "Quick Wind Lever" and shoot until you get to Frame "0" on the counter beside the shutter button. As you do this, check that the "Angled Rewind Crank"l on the top left of the camera is turning as you wind the Quick Wind Lever. Set the dial on the back to the "box speed" of the film you put in (Tri-X = 400; Fujifilm Neopan Acros 100 = 100). Now your camera's light meter is adjusted for your film. You head out of KL up the AH2 to Penang. This, like scanning, may take some time, so I hope you filled up during smoko. You find something you want to photograph. Wind on to Frame No. 1. Turn the shutter speed dial on the top to somewhere from 1/60 - 1/1000s. Looking through the viewfinder, point the centre of the frame at something that is fairly neutral in the scene (not a highlight and not a deep shadow). Lightly press the shutter button...I did say lightly...You may want to take those work gloves off before doing this. Down in the bottom of the viewfinder, you will see a red arrow / triangle and / or a red dot. If it's a dot on it's own, the aperture and shutter combination you have selected are on the money for a good regular shot. If it's a right-pointing triangle, or a dot with a triangle to the left, to get the same as (11) above, you need to move the top of the aperture ring on the lens and / or the front of the shutter dial to the right to achieve the same thing (ie open up the aperture / slow down the shutter speed). If it's a left-pointing triangle, or a dot with a triangle to the right, to get the same as (11) above, you need to move the top of the aperture ring on the lens and / or the front of the shutter dial to the left to achieve the same thing (ie stop down the aperture / increase the shutter speed). Click. Wind on to Frame No. 2, and rinse and repeat until you feel some resistance to winding on. At this point, DO NOT reach for the Pipe Tongs or a Cheater Bar. The camera is submitting a Stop Card, telling you that you have come to the end of the film. Check the frame counter, and bask in the glory of having shot your first film. Find a small coffee shop and order up a Tiger while you sit and check what you have shot on the LCD on the back of the...hmmm, no, looks like that's a different Procedure. Find a small coffee shop and order up a Tiger while you push the little lever below the "Leica M6" label on the front of the camera across towards the "R", which allows you to rewind the film. Flip out the little crank arm on the Angled Rewind Crank on the top left of the camera, and crank away until the camera's engine starts, or at least until the resistance has ceased, and a few cranks more. The resistance ceases when the film comes free of the sprockets, and a few more winds will have it safely back inside it's cartridge. Remove the base plate and drop the exposed film cartridge out. At this point there will be no film visible. Take out another roll of film, drop your exposed film cartridge into an empty canister, and repeat all of the above (except driving back up the AH2 to Penang). After you have completed the Penang trip, drive back down the AH2 to KL. Go in to Bang Bang Geng (or another shop that does film developing and scanning). Hand over your suitcase full of exposed films, and ask for "develop and 16-base scan". They may provide TIFF files if asked, or they may only be JPEG's. It doesn't really matter much, as there is generally very little, if any, editing to do to the digital files. They will tell you that they would be ready on Day X, but it's a holiday in Y State, because there's always a holiday going on somewhere. Go away, filled with impatient anticipation. Return on Day Z and pick up your negatives (should be in folders) and your CD of scanned images. Return home and load the images, trying to remember to put at least the film type in as a keyword - There is no EXIF data to rely on. Look at the images and see what they do for you. What worked and why? What was a dismal failure and why? Do not be concerned about grain and resolution - It's light and shadow that you're looking for, not pixels. Give yourself time to absorb the images - revisit them after a day or two. Where digital images may look less impressive when you go back to them, film images often grow on you, sort of like fungus or mould. Armed with newfound knowledge and expectations, go forth and shoot some more. After a while, emulsions will become your friends, and you will see scenes in terms of how they would represent them. Many will disagree, but I suggest you stick with B&W until you are happy with what you see, and can reasonably consistently shoot a roll of images that produce what you wanted. Colour film is fantastic, but it will mask exposure issues if you don't learn how to deal with them first. B&W is simple and, somehow, honest. Oh, yes, Step 33 - Enjoy the whole process, including the waiting. Brilliant mate ......bloody fantastic. Unfortunately ...........You forgot the debrief at the end,so you had better go and see the pusher for you know whats next :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #184 Posted March 28, 2016 And you really do need a new scanner. This is a new and complex workflow unless you get the negative printed directly without a digital stage. So a scanner is/would be better than shooting the negatives with my S ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted March 28, 2016 Share #185 Posted March 28, 2016 So a scanner is/would be better than shooting the negatives with my S ?? No, sorry I'd forgotten about those earlier discussions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #186 Posted March 28, 2016 Neil, I missed this until just now. I just looked at your website. You're sandbaggin' us here, Shipmate. Hot damn, you're good. VERY good. Thanks for the kind words, but seriously I really do not have a clue about Film Photography, so thats why I have been asking all these basic (to you) genuine questions. I want to learn the basics of film photography and then go out and play with it and see if I'm going to like it. My first ever camera in 2009 was a Nikon D70 that I only ever shot on the green setting (Auto). I only played with it for a while and then I never used it for about a year. When I took it out of the cupboard a year later all the rubber parts were sticky. So I took it to the Nikon Centre in KL and asked if they had a cleaner for it. They told me for about $75 they could change all the rubber parts, so I agreed to that and came back to pick up my camera the next day. While waiting in line to get my camera I saw a poster on the wall advertising for a Basic Camera class for the new Nikon D7000 so when it was my turn to get my camera back I asked if I could join that class, at first the lady said yes but then said the class was for the D7000 and seeing as my camera was a D70 I could not join the class. Well I wasn't happy about that BS and told her a camera is a camera and all I wanted to do was learn the basics. She insisted that I couldn't join so I left the centre pissed off. On my way to find a taxi rank I saw another Nikon shop that had a sign outside advertising the new D7000 so in I popped and bought myself the D7000. I went back to the Nikon centre and asked again if I could join there class. The same woman looked at me, then looked at her friend with that look on her face "What the F%$# doesn't this guy get, no D7000 no class" so I put her out of her misery and showed her the new D7000 that I had just bough. And thats how I got hooked on Photography Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #187 Posted March 28, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) NEIL, THAT'S NOT FOR REWIND AS THE SHUTTER IS CLOSED DURING FILM REWIND SO YOU DO NOT NEED TO COVER THE LENS. IT'S WHEN YOU'RE WINDING A PARTLY USED FILM BACK INTO THE CAMERA TO GET THE FILM TO WHERE YOU WANT SO YOU CAN FINISH THE ROLL. YOU NEED TO AND FIRE THE SHUTTER AND WIND ON TO ADVANCE EACH FRAME. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE LENS COVERED WHEN YOU DO THIS YOU WILL DOUBLE-EXPOSE EACH FRAME. DOES THIS MAKE SENSE? MARK Got it mate,.thanks...........just woke up Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotoklaus Posted March 28, 2016 Share #188 Posted March 28, 2016 While waiting in line to get my camera I saw a poster on the wall advertising for a Basic Camera class for the new Nikon D7000 so when it was my turn to get my camera back I asked if I could join that class, at first the lady said yes but then said the class was for the D7000 and seeing as my camera was a D70 I could not join the class. Well I wasn't happy about that BS and told her a camera is a camera and all I wanted to do was learn the basics. She insisted that I couldn't join so I left the centre pissed off. On my way to find a taxi rank I saw another Nikon shop that had a sign outside advertising the new D7000 so in I popped and bought myself the D7000. I went back to the Nikon centre and asked again if I could join there class. The same woman looked at me, then looked at her friend with that look on her face "What the F%$# doesn't this guy get, no D7000 no class" so I put her out of her misery and showed her the new D7000 that I had just bough. And thats how I got hooked on Photography OK, that's the reason I never joined one of the stupid Photo-Clubs. It's all about equipment. That is so stupid, I can't say. If you got the photographic basics you can take pictures with every camera. D70, D700, Leica, Linhof, whatever. It's all about light, aperture, shutter, depth of field... And your eyes. If you run blind through the world, neither a Leica or a Nikon will bring you nice pictures. So take your Leica and shoot. It is kind of a freedom NOT to have whistles and bells, dozens of knobs and switches. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 28, 2016 Share #189 Posted March 28, 2016 Sorry not look at your web site first Neil I agree with Hepcat , very nice portraits ! http://neilsphotography.co.uk/blog/ and ballon * pictures are superb if you have already S camera I think film camera is a good second system with soft lines and edges ... and with great pleasure in addition , time to think and frame before triggering , with a M camera specially for street photo ** Best Henry * http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Doc+Henry/Image6balk400feclught____1200.jpg.html ** http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Doc+Henry/Image1spmarshplslught___1200.jpg.html http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Doc+Henry/Image5spmarsehp5fslught___1200tc.jpg.html (click top middle and right icon to enlarge) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EoinC Posted March 28, 2016 Share #190 Posted March 28, 2016 Got it mate,.thanks...........just woke up Yes, Neil - This part is not for you, yet. Just stick with shooting box speed. The easiest way to change ISO's is to finish the film you have in the camera, and then start afresh. For normal use, just follow the 500 step Roughneck's Guide. The RM's a Cuzzy Bro' so I have no fear for the 'Pusher... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #191 Posted March 28, 2016 Is ilford Pan 400 okay? The Leica shop where I am buying my M6 is out of stock of the Kodak, only have ilford Pan 400 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotoklaus Posted March 28, 2016 Share #192 Posted March 28, 2016 Take a Ilford HP5 if available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hepcat Posted March 28, 2016 Share #193 Posted March 28, 2016 Thanks for the kind words, but seriously I really do not have a clue about Film Photography, so thats why I have been asking all these basic (to you) genuine questions. I want to learn the basics of film photography and then go out and play with it and see if I'm going to like it. And thats how I got hooked on Photography Great story... gear heads are gear heads, and for them the gear is the end-all. For those of us who fancy ourselves photographers though, it's just a tool. So normally, if you were switching from film to digital, I'd tell you to shoot it exactly the same as you'd shoot Kodachrome.. expose for the highlights... and that presumes that you're conversant in all of the things that you need to know about film, and that would make sense and all your knowledge would transfer. You'd need to learn a few new things like what a histogram is for, and how to use Lightroom and what the difference between RAW and .jpg is. But other than that, if you can shoot film, you can shoot digital. Not so in the reverse; especially for someone who has shot digital using the green square and autofocus switching to a manual camera. More important that all of that, though, is the ability to see and frame what you see and you definitely have that, and you have the necessary exposure basics from your digital work. Expose negative film for the shadows and slide film for the highlights. So, now... for you it's just a matter of mastering the mechanicals of film. It sounds a little complex, but remember that folks with less knowledge than you used the stuff successfully for a hundred years. You'll do fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 28, 2016 Share #194 Posted March 28, 2016 Hepcat, when I switched from digital (5 years of M8 and M9) ,to analog , I think more about what I take, I take more time to frame or wait for "the decisive moment" (Street photo)I trigger much less and what a pleasure Best Henry @Neil some nice Pan F Ilford pictures of Eoin here : http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/?p=3016084 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #195 Posted March 28, 2016 Hepcat, when I switched from digital (5 years of M8 and M9) , to analog , I think more about what I take, I take more time to frame or wait for "the decisive moment" (Street photo) I trigger much less and what a pleasure Best Henry Henry I was hopping to shoot TriX400 film but Leica in KL only have ilford Pan 400 so I ordered 30 rolls for my two day trip to Penang..............hopefully by the time I come back the Kodak will be back in stock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted March 28, 2016 Share #196 Posted March 28, 2016 Good purchase Neil You have no time to read books isn't , here an interesting link : https://simonjamesonweston.wordpress.com/2011/08/10/return-to-film-black-and-white-film/ Best Henry in addition these 2 links for your inspiration: http://emulsive.org/interviews/i-am-andrew-sanderson-and-this-is-why-i-shoot-film and with a "discreet" and light MP Leica camera some street photos : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgB5fxYjZXE Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
@McLeica Posted March 28, 2016 Share #197 Posted March 28, 2016 Henry I was hopping to shoot TriX400 film but Leica in KL only have ilford Pan 400 so I ordered 30 rolls for my two day trip to Penang..............hopefully by the time I come back the Kodak will be back in stock 30 rolls?!?!? 2 days?!?! Breeeaathe! Every shot is, by its very nature, literally, a keeper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #198 Posted March 28, 2016 30 rolls?!?!? 2 days?!?! Breeeaathe! Every shot is, by its very nature, literally, a keeper. Typo....3 rolls Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS Posted March 28, 2016 Share #199 Posted March 28, 2016 Guys Can I fit my Leica 50mm 2.8 Elmar collapsable lens on my new M6?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter H Posted March 28, 2016 Share #200 Posted March 28, 2016 Get a Rolleiflex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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