Rick Posted February 20, 2016 Share #21 Posted February 20, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I find the if I can keep my camera out of NJ for service the sensor stays much cleaner. Almost every time I've sent it in for for a needed service it comes back looking like the tech spit in it! Repair techs needs to read the LUF sensor cleaning FAQ. Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 20, 2016 Posted February 20, 2016 Hi Rick, Take a look here How much does your dealer charge for an M240 sensor clean?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Peter Kilmister Posted February 20, 2016 Share #22 Posted February 20, 2016 Rick, Can you say that again please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted February 20, 2016 Share #23 Posted February 20, 2016 I find the if I can keep my camera out of NJ for service the sensor stays much cleaner. Almost every time I've sent it in for for a needed service it comes back looking like the tech spit in it! Repair techs needs to read the LUF sensor cleaning FAQ. Rick It is generally true, who is going to clean the sensor with more care and attention than you, the person it affects! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
viramati Posted February 20, 2016 Share #24 Posted February 20, 2016 When I still had my M I used the 'eyelead gel stick' to clean the sensor and it worked every time and was quick and easy to do Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted February 20, 2016 Share #25 Posted February 20, 2016 When I still had my M I used the 'eyelead gel stick' to clean the sensor and it worked every time and was quick and easy to do Really, thats a method I'm afraid to try......Its how the Leica factory does it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted February 21, 2016 Share #26 Posted February 21, 2016 When I still had my M I used the 'eyelead gel stick' to clean the sensor and it worked every time and was quick and easy to do I use the Eyelead stick as well, it has taken the older sticky pad idea to the next level. It should still be backed up with a wet cleaning kit because it won't remove oily spots, and new users should note not to twist it, just plonk it down and rock it over onto any edge of the gel pad to remove it. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
masjah Posted February 21, 2016 Share #27 Posted February 21, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) I use the Eyelead stick as well, it has taken the older sticky pad idea to the next level. It should still be backed up with a wet cleaning kit because it won't remove oily spots, and new users should note not to twist it, just plonk it down and rock it over onto any edge of the gel pad to remove it. Steve So do I. I gather though that it is important to get the genuine article and not some generic or counterfeit knock-off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Barnack Posted February 21, 2016 Share #28 Posted February 21, 2016 A friend took his Canon 5D to _______________ Camera Store repair department (a full line Nikon/Canon/Sony/Fuji/Pentax/etc. professional dealer) to have his sensor cleaned. A week later, the camera died for no apparent reason. He sent it in to Canon and was told that an excessive amount of liquid had somehow been introduced into the camera's electronics, which resulted in its early demise. He told me that _____________ Camera Store repair people were the only ones who had ever cleaned his sensor and that he was extremely careful with his camera when changing lenses. I cleaned my own sensor on my M-P and while I did not get 100% of the particulates removed, it was a big improvement. And my camera did not die a week later. There's gotta be a message there... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted February 21, 2016 Share #29 Posted February 21, 2016 An illuminated magnifier is essential for me to assess dust lying on my sensor glass. A couple of proximity passes with an Arctic Butterfly usually lifts the dust. No need for physical contact if the bristles are charged. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Barnack Posted February 21, 2016 Share #30 Posted February 21, 2016 @wda (and others), Can you please elaborate on using the Arctic Butterfly and the results you have gotten with it? I am not at all impressed with the reviews it has gotten online: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=712189&gclid=CPTPvq7BicsCFYg-aQodsx8M_Q&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&A=details&Q= I am quite reluctant to spend $143 USD on this product in light of the reviews it has been given by users. Thank you... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 21, 2016 Share #31 Posted February 21, 2016 I have one ; I don't use it. Eyelead Stamping tool, GreenClean vacuum cleaner, blower or wet clean for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
viramati Posted February 21, 2016 Share #32 Posted February 21, 2016 Really, thats a method I'm afraid to try......Its how the Leica factory does it It is really very easy and of all the methods I tried ( and believe me I have tried nearly all of them) it has been the most consistantly successful Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted February 21, 2016 Share #33 Posted February 21, 2016 One question: My 240 sensor has never been cleaned, others on this thread suggested to do a "wet clean" a couple times because a new cameras shutter spirits oil ? Everyone having a correct opinion can be a little confusing.....Do a wet cleaning first ....is oil a factor?.....all I see is a dozen black spots/dust Do I start with a wet cleaning then for future cleanings, select a my preferred method air/artic butterfly/Eyelead/or wet as needed? I do know not to clean too often. Virgin sensor one year old which method is preferred for a first cleaning....is oil really a factor? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 21, 2016 Share #34 Posted February 21, 2016 Some claim so. You could start with a blower, and then inspect the sensor using a Sensor Loupe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kilmister Posted February 21, 2016 Share #35 Posted February 21, 2016 I had one occasion when there were blobs on photos taken with my M240-P. I used a cheap hand-operated air blower. Problem was solved. Now I always keep my camera body pointing at the ground when changing lenses. Never had a problem since then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECohen Posted February 21, 2016 Share #36 Posted February 21, 2016 I will start with the simplest method a cheap hand-operated air blower....this shutter spitting oil through me for a loop Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
microview Posted February 21, 2016 Share #37 Posted February 21, 2016 Sensor cleaning is free in Bruton street . Jimmy Hughes gave my 2 m9 ,s a clean and inspection last year to confirm the sensors where ok. That's what Jimmy told me last week. When I told him their website quotes anything up to £85+VAT he asked which planet was I on (he's an old friend). But the tariff is still there: http://213.198.15.9/photography/s-system-pro-services/sensor-cleaning.html. You would think they'd update their web pages but they're as bad as Richard Caplan's! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunhoy Posted February 21, 2016 Share #38 Posted February 21, 2016 £0.00 - Leica Mayfair did my M240 as I waited. Excellent service! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted February 21, 2016 Share #39 Posted February 21, 2016 I have just been charged £50, but apparently, the standard charge is £40, so I will be getting £10 back on Monday. I still think that's pretty steep for maybe 15 minutes work. Andy - it's like the plumber. $10 in labor/time to fix the leak - and $45 for knowing how to fix the leak. Depends on the state of the sensor - we've had some jobs that took 2 hours to get every last speck loose and removed. 30 minutes is average for a FF sensor, when you consider the stages involved (original test shot, blower brush, arctic butterfly, then liquid/swab ($5.50 for materials) for any sticky stuff, then a test shot and loading it to a computer for full-sized viewing, then another round (or two) of cleaning, for the few remaining specks (we're anal!), then making a confirming "clean" shot to give back to the customer (and for our own records. Amazing how many people come back a week later to claim we failed - when actually they've just dirtied it up again in the meantime!) And that doesn't include the staff labor/time setting up a repair account (name/phone/address/email), and other paperwork involved as with any repair/servicing. OTOH, we've had some requests for cleanings where we could find no specks to remove - we usually call the customer and have them come in and show us what they want removed (often results in them having mistaken SLR finder dust for "sensor dust," or other confusion. No charge in that case - or a minimal "wasting our time" charge. ) We charge $55 for a sensor cleaning. We'll do two at once for $85. Our normal turnaround is 48 hours (because those prices attract a LOT of customers!) with a rush charge of 50% for same-day return. BTW - we also sell the materials, for those who want to DIY. Anywhere from $50 to $300 to get started, depending on what kit they want (Arctic Butterfly, lighted loupe, swabs, liquid cleaner, rocket blower, etc.) Our in-house gear is the high-end stuff, so to replicate it would be $300, or 5+ cleanings. Just depends on what is more valuable to them - time or money. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schrödinger's cat Posted February 22, 2016 Share #40 Posted February 22, 2016 One question: My 240 sensor has never been cleaned, others on this thread suggested to do a "wet clean" a couple times because a new cameras shutter spirits oil ? Everyone having a correct opinion can be a little confusing.....Do a wet cleaning first ....is oil a factor?.....all I see is a dozen black spots/dust Do I start with a wet cleaning then for future cleanings, select a my preferred method air/artic butterfly/Eyelead/or wet as needed? I do know not to clean too often. Virgin sensor one year old which method is preferred for a first cleaning....is oil really a factor? Your question is difficult to answer in a manner you would find useful because the correct answer is......it depends Consider the fellow who calls up his doctor and says "I don't feel good. What's the best course of treatment?" For instance, regarding your question if oil is really a factor. Yes it very much is. Unless you have no oil, in which case it is not. You need to know which you have. And perhaps this is a good recommendation for having a good relationship with a dealer who can make a proper evaluation of exactly what the difficulty might be and select the correct procedure to address that issue. As best I can tell, nobody has suggested a bad, or sub standard, or even moderately less desirable cleaning method anywhere in this thread. Pay your money and take your choice. Some will be better than others in certain instances. There might be real value in having options. The real difference is in the degree of invasiveness. I suggest you do the very least you have to do in order to get the sensor clean, and no more. A proper wet clean, as far as my experience goes, would produce the desired result for me every single time. But if I can also get there with just a bulb blower it makes more sense to go that route. I've never tried some of the other methods because I've never felt the need to experiment further, but they are clearly excellent for many users. I detailed my personal preference earlier in the thread, but that's all it is, my own personal preference. It would almost certainly work well for you, but you might like something else better. Hell, your way might actually be best anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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