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ND filter or color filter?


realquick

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Hi,

 

I just got an M-Monochrom. Its base ISO is 320 so

I think I need an ND filter. How about color filter like yellow or orange one(this looks nice to me)?

 

I have a plan to visit India next month. Please give me

advise about this and other things.

 

Many thanks :)

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Hi,

 

I just got an M-Monochrom. Its base ISO is 320 so

I think I need an ND filter. How about color filter like yellow or orange one(this looks nice to me)?

 

I have a plan to visit India next month. Please give me

advise about this and other things.

 

Many thanks :)

Both a yellow and an orange filter can come in handy. I use yellow on a clear day. For a hazy day, orange may be needed. Either one will lower the effective ISO to 160 or less.

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What lenses do you plan to use and what type of photography are you interested in? If, for example, you have a 75lux and like wide open portraiture , I would certainly recommend a three stop nd filter. Yellow all round and orange for landscape/ clouds. Hope this helps.

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Hi,

 

I just got an M-Monochrom. Its base ISO is 320 so

I think I need an ND filter. How about color filter like yellow or orange one(this looks nice to me)?

 

I have a plan to visit India next month. Please give me

advise about this and other things.

 

Many thanks :)

 

I've visited India on two occasions recently (February and December), and on the first visit, I found that the variety of skin tones presented problems that I had no previous experience of.  On reflection, I wouldn't mess with filters at all, because you cannot apply one single value to all the skin tones you'll experience.  If you think you must, then use a yellow-green.  There are very few westerners.   The hair and pupils of many locals are naturally very dark and you don't want false results. Skin colours vary according to their caste and origin which often extends well beyond India's borders. I think my best results demonstrated the character of the dark skins.   You don't state what lenses you are taking. My best portraits came from my 75mm f/2.5 or50 summilux. My 90 was too long and too heavy for days out with everything else. You will always be carrying water from a reliable source.   Try and choose your lightest combination. .  I also used a 21mm 3.4 for the amazing landscapes and buildings in forts and palaces. Interiors of buildings are often very dark so perhaps take a tiny tripod to allow you to put the camera down.  You may be asked to pay a fee to take photographs. .  The other issue is the light. Delhi, Agra,  Northern India and Rajasthan are very colourful and you may regret not shooting in colour,  the skies may be bright or sometimes hazy due to pollution.  Early morning or late afternoon light is best.  Mumbai was a good example of hazy atmosphere.  No long distance vistas were possible.. I would therefore take an ND filter to allow you to shoot at your widest  apertures.  You'll see Clouds in the north, but completely clear or hazy in the central regions.  Finally, you may be visiting the Chennai or Goa In the south.  That's bright. Check the weather channels to understand what it will be like in the region you are visiting in March.  Could be maximum summer, but also summer monsoon.  You need to know and you haven't mentioned where you are going to be.  It's a huge country with a huge population, unbelievable congestion and often chaos on the roads, leading to a lot of slow travel between cities, so it isn't possible to "do India" in one trip.

I love it and will go again soon.  

Enjoy yourself.  I hope my information prepares you for an amazing experience.

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color filter lighten the subject color equal to color of the filter and darken the opposite.   In a landscape, yellow will lighten grass and darken blue sky,  orange more so. red even more dramatic.  Orange & red will exaggerate colors which is useful for certain effects,  but not useful for every photo.  

 

Yellow/green combined color combination is single most useful. Around 1.5 stop light reduction.

 

Remember color filters always distort original tonal values. 

 

I would get a 2 stop ND to lower iso to 80. All this depends on the f stop you wish to use.

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Hallo!

 

I'm thinking about buying a MM. Excuse me for a little stupid question now:

 

If I take a picture on the MM using a yellow filter (or any other colour-filter), and on the other hand, take the same picture without the filter: Is it then possible to get exactly similar results of both in LR-editing? Or does the "filter-picture" contains or misses Informations, that does not allow to repoduce the identical result from a picture taken without a colour-filter?

 

To explain the question in a different way: On a picture taken with M240 and coulor-filter I can eleminate the filter-effect with LR afterwards by using the color-channel controller. Is it possible to do the same with the MM, or are there missing informations due to the missing Bayer-Filter?

 

Thanks for your help!

Udo

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Using color contrast filters over a color sensitive (Bayer) sensor will simply make life very difficult. Converting to B&W by applying filters in post-processing (a few methods) is much better.

 

With an MM you must use filters over the lens to achieve certain desired outcomes. There are no color channels.

 

Polarizing filters work the same over either kind of camera. Experiment and enjoy!

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I would skip colour filters unless you want to achieve a consistent particular effect. An ND filter could be handy for shooting wide open, but how much are you shooting wide open? Most of the time you want to have a little bit of depth of field. A 3 stops ND filter to use in bright light should suffice. There is so much that you can do with MM files in post and the tones are beautiful without having to mess around with colour channels...

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I will agree with giulioz on the -3 stop ND filter.  At ISO 320, -3 EV should be adequate, given that the shutter speeds of the Monochrom go up to 1/4000.

 

I would also recommend a high quality UV filter for protecting the front element of your very costly 50 Summicron APO like this one offered by B+W http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/905879-REG/b_w_661073876_39mm_xs_pro_nano_mc_uva_010.html 

 

Better safe than sorry...

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...and to achieve strong contrast in a cloudy sky? Use a yellow filter or better shoot without filter and then Lightroom instead?

 

Color channels in LR don't apply to the Monochrom.....of course other LR controls (exposure, contrast, etc) have effect, but not the same as color filtration on camera or in post.

 

Jeff

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No problem... hope you enjoy your new camera.  I greatly value use of color channels in post (can use multiple channels independently, which cannot be done through use of colored filters on camera), so for me the M240 serves best.  But you have another great tool that should serve you well.

 

Jeff

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Color channels in LR don't apply to the Monochrom.....of course other LR controls (exposure, contrast, etc) have effect, but not the same as color filtration on camera or in post.

 

Jeff

I have been using the Exposure plug-in (via LR) to mimik the look of analogue film (and yes, I do like them). What I realized with M246 files was that once a film-type is selected, the color filter options indeed 'do work' despite the absence of any color channels. For what that is worth.   

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I have been using the Exposure plug-in (via LR) to mimik the look of analogue film (and yes, I do like them). What I realized with M246 files was that once a film-type is selected, the color filter options indeed 'do work' despite the absence of any color channels. For what that is worth.   

Could you please elaborate? How do they work? They have no colour information, so they cannot differentiate the tonal values by colour. The only thing they can do is tweak the contrast.

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