sblitz Posted January 16, 2016 Share #61 Posted January 16, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Enjoy and try lots of different films (still plenty out there to use) ..... not all B&W are the same .... find what works for what you want to shoot .... enjoy the learning curve, you never really get tot he end of it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 16, 2016 Posted January 16, 2016 Hi sblitz, Take a look here Convince me to buy a film M. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
fielden Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share #62 Posted January 17, 2016 Here it is! taken with dlux 109 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/255498-convince-me-to-buy-a-film-m/?do=findComment&comment=2970739'>More sharing options...
tsleica Posted January 17, 2016 Share #63 Posted January 17, 2016 I'm thinking about getting my m6 out of storage and actually using it for the 1st time in many years.. Does anyone know where to get batteries? Or have the camera adapted to the newer voltage batteries in the US.. Thx in advance..! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted January 17, 2016 Share #64 Posted January 17, 2016 I did exactly the same and bought a used Leica M6 camera in very good condition for a fair price. Since I don't have in mind using it for flash photography, I skipped on the TTL version and saved some money. I want to use the M6 predominantly for B&W photography. B&W film gives a certain flair which is hard or nearly impossible to achieve in digital. I also develop film by myself and use my darkroom for printing - this all in parallel to my digital photography.I decided to go with a M6 camera for two main reasons - I always wanted to have a reliable full mechanical small-sized camera with light meter, and I already used mostly M mount lenses on my digital mirrorless Sony A7R camera with adapter. Now I can use the same set of M lenses on both cameras and take photos both digital and on film when I visit places. I made no good experience by scanning negatives. Instead I photograph my 35 mm negatives with my Sony A7R and 100/2.8 macro lens. I am using an LED light tablet onto which I put a negative holder with the negatives. I use a tripod with the center pole pointing downwards which sits above the LED light tablet. I just have to make sure that the sensor place of the camera is parallel to the tablet and the negative. I adjust for the focus distance to frame the negative within its borders in 1:1 magnification on my A7R. I normally shoot at f/11 to accommodate for a tiny bit of camera tilt in Av mode at ISO 50. This gives me a high resolution RAW file of the negative - I just have to invert it in PS and make slight changes in the levels and contrast. Done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenInTime Posted January 17, 2016 Share #65 Posted January 17, 2016 I'm thinking about getting my m6 out of storage and actually using it for the 1st time in many years.. Does anyone know where to get batteries? Or have the camera adapted to the newer voltage batteries in the US.. Thx in advance..! Silver Oxide, Alkaline and Lithium batteries are still readily available - it was the old mercury containing ones that were phased out look for 2x D76 or 2x SR44 or 1x DL1/3N Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted January 17, 2016 Share #66 Posted January 17, 2016 I'm thinking about getting my m6 out of storage and actually using it for the 1st time in many years.. Does anyone know where to get batteries? Or have the camera adapted to the newer voltage batteries in the US.. Thx in advance..! Amazon has them! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted January 17, 2016 Share #67 Posted January 17, 2016 Advertisement (gone after registration) Since I don't have in mind using it for flash photography, I skipped on the TTL version and saved some money. Good choice. The TTL flash does not work well. . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted January 18, 2016 Share #68 Posted January 18, 2016 I made no good experience by scanning negatives. Instead I photograph my 35 mm negatives with my Sony A7R and 100/2.8 macro lens. I am using an LED light tablet onto which I put a negative holder with the negatives. I use a tripod with the center pole pointing downwards which sits above the LED light tablet. I just have to make sure that the sensor place of the camera is parallel to the tablet and the negative. I adjust for the focus distance to frame the negative within its borders in 1:1 magnification on my A7R. I normally shoot at f/11 to accommodate for a tiny bit of camera tilt in Av mode at ISO 50. This gives me a high resolution RAW file of the negative - I just have to invert it in PS and make slight changes in the levels and contrast. Done! wow, apart from the guy using a D800E as a scanner I'd say that puts you in the top 10 for quality scanning !!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted January 18, 2016 Share #69 Posted January 18, 2016 Hi Harold and Martin, I am not entirely convinced by this scan system.If it's done in a darkroom or "closed" box maybe it avoids reflections or stray light that can come and interfere with the resulting image...and also some dust may fall on the film I even read that the infrared or ultraviolet can interfere without that the human eye sees. other proof : the astronomers prefer altitude to better see the sky : interference city lights in the observation. Rg Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suede Posted January 18, 2016 Share #70 Posted January 18, 2016 What convinced me was the difference between these two pictures I shot in the autumn of 2014 in Glasgow. Both with a 28mm Summicron ASPH and a B+W red filter. The top picture was shot on my M Monochrom mk1, the lower picture on my M2, loaded with Kodak Tri-X film. The M Monochrome is an incredible camera, and it's as close to shooting black and white film as I've yet come across. It's also versatile since the ISO can be altered from frame to frame, and convenient, because the images are instantly available. The M Monochrome is also very sharp. In the M Mono shot attached here, you can zoom in and count the ridges and veins on some of the leaves. With the film image from my M2, there is less detail, but a more beautiful veiling grain, especially in the sky. Crucially that's the difference. I've made both of these images into prints, and everyone who has seen them, including me, instantly prefers the image shot on film. It just looks nicer. In the M Monochrom shot, the tree trunk has a kind of plastic look to it. Film requires more dedication than digital. But when you get a shot that you're happy with, you're always glad you shot it on film. It looks nicer, and you have a negative, a permanent record of the event, whereas with digital, you're always worrying that the file will become unreadable one day. Anyway, hope this is of some help - best wishes, and good luck! Colin Templeton That's great work and a wonderful take on the rendition of both the digital and film images. Also nice to see the article and images over at Leicaphilia. Felicitations! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted January 18, 2016 Share #71 Posted January 18, 2016 Scanning is an incomplete science. Nothing is perfect. The problem is taking a picture of a picture. At the end of day proper photographic enlargement is the best way of seeing a film photo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted January 18, 2016 Share #72 Posted January 18, 2016 Here it is! taken with dlux 109 Wow , a great camera with a great lens bravo Graeme Good photos and don't forget to share with us http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/205842-i-like-filmopen-thread/page-490 Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted January 18, 2016 Share #73 Posted January 18, 2016 Scanning is an incomplete science. Nothing is perfect. The problem is taking a picture of a picture. At the end of day proper photographic enlargement is the best way of seeing a film photo I agree entirely with you Harold Focomat IC with Focotar the compressor at right is used to remove dust on the negative Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M9-50LA Regards Henry Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! M9-50LA Regards Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/255498-convince-me-to-buy-a-film-m/?do=findComment&comment=2971411'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted January 18, 2016 Share #74 Posted January 18, 2016 ... like this picture of fog you can see in the previous picture with the enlarger better rendering in printing on Ilford paper ! Leica M7-Ilford HP5-28 Summicron Asph Ilford dev home lab in Ilfosol S 20°C Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Grains of film well reproduce microdroplets of fog as I said above not the case of "smoothing" pixels of digital photos Henry Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Grains of film well reproduce microdroplets of fog as I said above not the case of "smoothing" pixels of digital photos Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/255498-convince-me-to-buy-a-film-m/?do=findComment&comment=2971422'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted January 18, 2016 Share #75 Posted January 18, 2016 I'm thinking about getting my m6 out of storage and actually using it for the 1st time in many years.. Does anyone know where to get batteries? Or have the camera adapted to the newer voltage batteries in the US.. Thx in advance..! I have this brand in my M7 and MP http://www.amazon.fr/Varta-6131101401-Pile-Electronique-CR1/dp/B00005NPS1 They work well Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwolf Posted January 18, 2016 Share #76 Posted January 18, 2016 ....I have to admit that an important component of my fatigue in dealing with digital photography is the ecosystem that comes with it. The marketing is not dissimilar from that of personal computers or smartphones (or dishwashers) - a new generation promising miracles every 18 months - and ferocious obsolescence of products; hysterical hype in magazines that need to keep the buzz as loud as possible to maintain readership; IT problems that are now creeping in any corner of the photo workflow - today antivirus and software updates in the imaging desktop, tomorrow lenses that will be driven by upgradable software and cameras that will have their own IP address (with all the horrors that come with it).... Well said. It is wearisome, isn't it? One can try to resist, but contentment just does not seem compatible with the digital experience. And congrats to the OP on the M6! I tried film again a few times over the last few years and could not stay with it. Your thread makes me want to try yet again. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin B Posted January 18, 2016 Share #77 Posted January 18, 2016 Hi Harold and Martin, I am not entirely convinced by this scan system. If it's done in a darkroom or "closed" box maybe it avoids reflections or stray light that can come and interfere with the resulting image...and also some dust may fall on the film I even read that the infrared or ultraviolet can interfere without that the human eye sees. other proof : the astronomers prefer altitude to better see the sky : interference city lights in the observation. Rg Henry I don't have this problem. I do the process of photographing my negatives even outside my darkroom. It is important that the negative is homogeneously lit - my LED panel guarantees this. Your point about UV and IR light in general is correct. Red or yellow color tint block UV when applied to a digital negative in my enlarger used for my silver gelatin prints. Without color tint, I get easily overexposed prints with my enlarger. IR plays a bigger role with digital sensors. Sensors have a so-called ICF filter in front of the digital sensor to cut off IR light since it would decrease color intensity from visual light. For IR photography this ICF filter is removed and replaced with a cutoff filter at a given wavelength (e.g. 720 or 860 nm). Astronomers prefer to have an IR converted camera which still lets some regular red light pass through to make the star clouds appear reddish. The cutoff here is at 650 nm. Light pollution is an issue for both astronomy and night photography in general. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerndReini Posted January 19, 2016 Share #78 Posted January 19, 2016 I used a custom lab for scanning until I got a great tip on the forum. The Pakon 135 scanner is the insider secret. It is a mini-lab scanner that can be had for $500-700. It scans at 2000dpi, good enough for beautiful 8x10 and can be uprezed if needed. the only downside is that you need to run it on an outdated computer with Windows HP. But it scans an uncut roll in under seven minutes with great quality. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted January 19, 2016 Share #79 Posted January 19, 2016 I do love the specular effect from film: Promenade to Midron Yafo Park, Yafo, Israel Leica M7, Voigtlander 35mm II, Kodak Tmax 400 rgds Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekindangen Posted January 19, 2016 Share #80 Posted January 19, 2016 I am not a sport photographer nor a press photographer. Thus I am not constrained by time. I like the film look and I like the process, from shooting with a film camera, to processing the film, to printing the negs in a darkroom. I process my films at home and just two months ago I completed my transformation to the dark side of the force by setting up my very own darkroom for printing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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