jmahto Posted December 12, 2015 Share #21 Posted December 12, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) That's a pretty rare occurrence, and a fault in a particular lens. I've never had it happen in any of the cameras and lenses I've owned and used over the past half century. Anything can break, of course, but I wouldn't worry about that over-much. I am sure it was a problem with my lens but I am not sure about rare part. I just did Google search for "aperture blade sticking" and found many hits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 12, 2015 Posted December 12, 2015 Hi jmahto, Take a look here Focusing M Lenses on the SL. Is it cumbersome? Feedback appreciate it.. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ramarren Posted December 12, 2015 Share #22 Posted December 12, 2015 I am sure it was a problem with my lens but I am not sure about rare part. I just did Google search for "aperture blade sticking" and found many hits. Doing a google search will find hits on many things that are comparatively rare. Also, the data store that's there is sort of 'self selecting' for complaints like this... I find a hugely disproportionate number of the posts about camera equipment to be articulating problems that have truly been pretty darn rare when compared to the total number of units in the field. Personally, I still wouldn't worry about it. Of course there are some, but experience over the past five decades tells me that problems like this are pretty unusual occurrences. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonoslack Posted December 12, 2015 Share #23 Posted December 12, 2015 Hmmm whilst o agree with your general principle Godfrey, I remember reading somewhere that the aperture stop down for R lenses wasn't really designed for the rigor of the R8 and R9 in P and A mode, and there were some problems with sticking apertures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertBClancy Posted December 12, 2015 Share #24 Posted December 12, 2015 I have an M and I have struggled with the RF experience, especially with my Noctilux lens. I think my eyesight is probably the main reason but in any event I have not been that successful as a RF photographer. I like the purity of the M but I have not been very confident with it, particularly in my attempts at 'street' photography, where it is supposed to be in it's element and I have had mixed results with my focusing skills. I bought a Q a few months ago and loved the camera, just not the 28 mm fixed focal length, so I decided to trade my Q for an SL. I have owned an SL now for a few days and have tried a number of my M lenses on it and it is a truly fantastic experience. The EVF is, as others have remarked stunning. It makes focusing even challenging lenses such as the Noctilux easy, really easy! It makes that lens more usable. I have read a number of reviews where they suggest, M lenses are best on M bodies and they may well be right. I have read and enjoy Mr Reids reviews and came to the conclusion that whilst I am confident all his technical analysis is right, that the average person such as I, would be hard pushed to know in a blind testing whether a photograph was taken with an SL or an M using M lenses. I can only judge by my lenses which are all modern and recent M lenses and I am very very happy. I don't miss my Q, that was the right trade in against the SL, the question is will I ever really want to go back to my M ? The other issue I was concerned about before my purchase of the SL was, whether I would lose that Leica look using M lenses on the SL. I see no evidence of that either, I actually think the M lenses and the new sensor of the SL work very well together. So right now I am happy. Of course I guess the issue is what will the next M look like and if that turns out to have a hybrid rangefinder or have a stunning EVF then I might kick myself for not waiting but that is something I can obsess about for the next few months! 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff S Posted December 12, 2015 Share #25 Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Same story here except I have perfect eyesight. Biggest issue was the inter-calibration on lenses and body. If I calibrated my noctilux, my 90 cron was off. Even after sending it all in to wetzlar for calibration. Even so, could rarely get the Nocti tack at wide open. Traded the M240 for the SL and I'm 100% tack with no question ever on the 0.95. I even prefer using M lenses over the SL 24-90. It's that fast and easy to get perfect focus on exactly what I want to focus on. Being able to move the magnification makes it that much better. For my first time I'm fully confident and in control of focus. Edited December 12, 2015 by Cliff S 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted December 13, 2015 Share #26 Posted December 13, 2015 Hmmm whilst o agree with your general principle Godfrey, I remember reading somewhere that the aperture stop down for R lenses wasn't really designed for the rigor of the R8 and R9 in P and A mode, and there were some problems with sticking apertures. Certainly possible, Jono. I've had no problems with either the Leicaflex SL (Manual only) or the R8 (in A or M mode, both with and without the motor winder) personally, but I've only had them a couple of years and probably only a couple of dozen rolls of film put through them. I had Nikons from 1969 to 2001 (with a couple of Olympus, Contax, and Minoltas tossed in for good measure) and no problems with any of them, and the slew of DSLRs (Canon, Pentax, Panasonic, Olympus, Nikon) in between them and the Leica R bodies also had no problems. Again, auto-diaphragm sticking can and does happen, but I think it's a fairly rare occurrence the happens at the extremes of temperature and stress. I think the OP was operating in sub-freezing temperatures on a Mount Shasta climb ... Yes, it can happen then more likely than at normal operating temps. That's why people used to have their cameras specially prepared for Arctic conditions, and why Nikon completely overhauled the FM2n in the latter 1980s to operate with virtually no lubricants at all, to allow it to be completely reliable in very cold and very hot climates. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua Lowe Posted December 15, 2015 Share #27 Posted December 15, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) I just tested an SL with a Summilux 50 and didn't find it to be any more difficult to focus with than an M240's rangefinder. And it was easier to focus with than an M240 live view or EVF. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua Lowe Posted December 16, 2015 Share #28 Posted December 16, 2015 I'll add that the trick I learned with focus peaking on the M240 is to set the Film Mode to black and white. That makes it much easier to see the red focus peaking lines in both Live View or the EVF. I did ask the Leica Store associate if the SL was capable of switching LV/EVF to monochrome and he wasn't certain. If I were focusing M lenses on an SL on the fly I'd do the same. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramarren Posted January 2, 2016 Share #29 Posted January 2, 2016 I'll add that the trick I learned with focus peaking on the M240 is to set the Film Mode to black and white. That makes it much easier to see the red focus peaking lines in both Live View or the EVF. I did ask the Leica Store associate if the SL was capable of switching LV/EVF to monochrome and he wasn't certain. If I were focusing M lenses on an SL on the fly I'd do the same. Set the SL's JPEG rendering to monochrome and the EVF will show B&W images only, just like with the M/M-P typ 240. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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